Special sparkler a perfect pair for oysters or caviar toast

Our wine of the week, Iron Horse Vineyards 2017 Winter Cuvée ($70), is an extraordinary sparkler. I cannot imagine a better wine to take us through the end of this challenging year. Think of it as our reward for surviving.

The wine is everything a sparkling wine should be: Tiny bubbles tickle your nose as you lift the glass to your lips. The first sip is pure delight, with a subtle hint of yeast, bright acidity and a swirl of delicate flavors that you don’t need to parse if you don’t want to. Just enjoy this beauty.

When it comes to pairing the wine, there are countless possibilities. One of the best is a charcuterie or salumi platter with a triple-cream cheese or two, such as the sheep’s-milk Brie I snagged a few days ago at Andy’s Market in Sebastopol. Add some olives, almonds and tangerine segments and you have a casual dinner perfect on a chilly winter’s night. Scrambled eggs with creamed oysters, served on the half shell at midnight, is a delicious match, too.

For today’s recipe, I’m suggesting something I have not done before in this column — two recipes instead of one. A fine sparkler such as this paired with oysters on the half shell and caviar toast makes a glorious meal, one that rises to this particular occasion with delicious grace. The mignonette, with its minced cranberries and hint of tangerine, adds a compelling burst to the oysters. And the caviar toasts — well, I’m not sure there is a better match for this lovely wine. When it comes to the caviar, use whatever you prefer and can afford. American white is one of the least expensive kinds, and it is wonderful. Local markets such as Pacific Markets and Oliver’s Markets have excellent selections.

Cranberry Mignonette

Makes about 1 cup, enough for 3 to 4 dozen oysters

1 small shallot, minced

1 teaspoon minced serrano

3 tablespoons fresh cranberries, minced

½ teaspoon tangerine zest

¾ cup best-quality white wine vinegar or cranberry vinegar

¼ cup freshly squeezed tangerine juice

3 or 4 generous pinches kosher salt

Black pepper in a mill

Put the shallot, serrano, cranberries, zest, vinegar and juice in a small bowl and stir. Add several very generous turns of black pepper.

To serve, put in a small serving bowl, add a small spoon and serve alongside a platter of shucked oysters.

The sauce will keep, refrigerated, for 3 to 4 days.

Caviar with Toast, Crème Fraîche and Onion

Makes 32 small servings

3 ounces crème fraîche

2 tablespoons finely minced red onion

1 hard-boiled egg, sieved

Black pepper in a mill

2 ounces caviar of choice

8 slices good sandwich bread

Put the crème fraîche, onion and sieved egg in little serving bowls and set them on a serving platter or directly on the table. Set the black pepper and the caviar, in its original glass container, alongside.

Quickly toast the bread to golden brown and cut each piece into 4 triangles. Wrap the toast in a cloth napkin and set it alongside the other ingredients. Each person prepares their own caviar toasts by spreading a small bit of crème fraîche on the toast and topping it with a dollop of caviar, a pinch of onion and egg and a turn or two of black pepper.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “San Francisco Seafood.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.