These Wine Country women changed the way we eat
There are three women who changed the way we think about food here in Northern California’s wine country. Many have not heard of them, but we owe them so much.
Two of them, M.F.K. Fisher and Paula Wolfert, spent a big part of their lives in California wine country. The third, Madeleine Kamman, was here for a shorter time but changed the art of cooking for a generation of professional chefs.
Fisher has influenced today’s finest chefs, culinary writers and legions of rabid readers and eaters. Her career began in the 1930s and spanned decades, her intoxicating prose blending musings on food, love, sex and the pleasures of eating well and reveling in the senses.
Brooklyn native Wolfert moved to Morocco in 1959 and immediately fell in love with its markets, clay-pot cooking and the exotic cities of Marrakesh and Tangier. Her two-year stint in the North African country inspired her to write her first cookbook, “Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco” (HarperCollins, 1973).
Since then, she has written more cookbooks and countless articles for Food & Wine magazine and others. She has won many awards, including a Lifetime Achievement Award in 2018 from the James Beard Foundation.
In her most recent cookbook, “The Food of Morocco” (Ecco, 2009), the culinary explorer not only updated her first book but vastly built upon it, adding fresh recipes, a source guide, a chapter on cooking essentials and sumptuous photography.
Wolfert’s move with her husband, novelist William Bayer, from the East Coast to the West and eventually to the small town of Sonoma in 1998, brought her full circle, back to the life she lived in Tangier, where she was able mingle with like-minded writers and chefs while enjoying the warmth and light of the Mediterranean climate.
From 1990-2000, Kamman was the co-founder, sole instructor and curriculum and course director of The School for American Chefs at Beringer Vineyards in St. Helena, teaching professional chefs with 2 to 15 years of experience.
As described by one student, she was “short tempered, demanding ... and (had an) intolerance for mediocrity.” To be able to attend was a culinary coup and a dream for many of us.
M.F.K. Fisher, culinary Grande Dame
Anne Zimmerman’s biography of Fisher, “An Extravagant Hunger: The Passionate Years of M.F.K. Fisher” (Counterpoint, 2011), describes her as America's preeminent food writer and culinary Grande Dame.
She wrote hundreds of stories for The New Yorker as well as 15 books of essays and reminiscences. She produced the enduring English translation of Brillat-Savarin’s book “The Physiology of Taste,” as well as a novel, a screenplay, a book for children and dozens of travelogues.
Fisher also had an appetite for combining travel with food and writing. She lived out the last 22 years of her life in a Glen Ellen cottage known as Last House, where she was inspired to write, cook and entertain for friends such as James Beard, Julia Child and Maya Angelou.
She died in 1992 at age 84 at her beloved Last House, now part of the Bouverie Preserve of Audubon Canyon Ranch, which is in the process of restoring the landmark Sonoma Valley home back to the way it was when she lived there.
In an interview in 1990, Fisher said writing about food “caused serious writers and critics to dismiss me for many, many years. It was woman’s stuff, a trifle.”
But she was undeterred. In 1943 she wrote in her book, “The Gastronomical Me,” “People ask me: ‘Why do you write about food, and eating and drinking? Why don’t you write about the struggle for power and security, and about love, the way others do?’ They ask it accusingly, as if I were somehow gross, unfaithful to the honor of my craft.
“The easiest answer is to say that, like most humans, I am hungry. But there is more than that. It seems to me that our three basic needs, for food and security and love, are so mixed and mingled and entwined that we cannot straightly think of one without the others. So it happens that when I write of hunger, I am really writing about love and the hunger for it … and then the warmth and richness and fine reality of hunger satisfied … and it is all one..
“There is a communion of more than our bodies when bread is broken and wine drunk. And that is my answer, when people ask me: Why do you write about hunger, and not wars and love.”
I had a special relationship with Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher. I first met her when she was in her late 60s or early 70s. She never revealed to me her exact age. The following is an unforgettable memory of Fisher.
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