Wine of the week: Benovia, 2019 Cohn Vineyard, Sonoma County Pinot Noir

A hillside ribbed in gnarled vines, initially planted five decades ago, was nearly forsaken. But today these vines are considered a treasure trove; they’re nurturing grapes for a pinot noir with cachet.

“We were initially advised to rip it (the Cohn Vineyard) out because it was fatigued from conventional farming,” said Mike Sullivan, winemaker and co-owner of Benovia Winery. “But we all saw the value in owning such a special heritage vineyard. So instead, we brought new life back to the vines and the soil with organic farming techniques. Today the vineyard is certified organic.

Sullivan and his revitalized Cohn Vineyard are behind our wine of the week winner — Benovia, 2019 Pinot Noir, Cohn Vineyard, Sonoma County, 14.1%, $85. A savory pinot noir with high-toned fruit, this bottling is a standout because of its intensity. This complex pinot has aromas and flavors of cherry and mineral with a hint of mushroom and forest floor. Well-crafted, this pinot is balanced, with crisp acidity and nice length. It edged out the Kosta Browne pinot noir because it’s just as tasty at nearly half the price.

“Working with a Sonoma County pinot noir vineyard that’s over 50 years old is really special, and the resulting wine is singularly unique,” Sullivan said. “The Cohn Vineyard pinot noir has lift, tension and vibrancy.”

The soils of the 18-acre vineyard in Healdsburg off Westside Road, the winemaker added, are distinctive, made up of river debris and covered with worn cobblestones.

Sullivan said pinot noir is a temperamental grape that requires a lot of attention in the vineyard and in the cellar.

Pinot can’t be rushed, he said, and he has a lot of patience. The unfolding of the grape is worth the wait.

“I know this land well,” Sullivan said. “I love this place and the subtleties of the terroir here.”

Sullivan’s parents planted a vineyard on Sonoma Mountain in the 1980s, and he helped tend the vines with his brothers when he was a teenager.

“The most difficult part of making pinot noir is handling the fruit as gently as possible to coax out some of the more subtle and elegant qualities of the varietal,” he said.

Sullivan, 53, has been in the wine industry for more than 30 years. He joined vintners Joe Anderson and Mary Dewane of Santa Rosa’s Benovia Winery in 2005. The winemaker has a degree in enology and graduated from Fresno State University in 1992.

What many don’t know about pinot noir is how diverse the varietal can be — from delicate, light and ephemeral styles to richer, bolder and more concentrated wines.

“We own three different estate vineyards in three distinctly different areas so that we can produce as many as seven different pinot noirs (with) each vintage, and the character of each wine is influenced by the terroir, soil and climate of each property,” Sullivan said.

“But I would say the overarching house style is about balance and elegance, with the abundance of bright fruit flavors we get in California.”

You can reach Wine writer Peg Melnik at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.