Wine of the week: Fritz, 2019 Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County Estate Reserve Zinfandel

Balance and craft is the yin and yang of winemaking, according to vintner Clay Fritz.

“We want to allow the grapes to shine and show what they’re capable of, without overdeveloping them,” he said. “We want to keep the zin lively and robust while using restraint to show what this lovely varietal is capable of.”

Fritz is behind our wine of the week winner — the Fritz, 2019 Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County Estate Reserve Zinfandel at $60. This is a snappy zinfandel with tangy, high-toned red fruit and an undercurrent of spice. It has notes of red raspberry, cranberry and cracked black pepper. It’s balanced, with bright acidity and nice length. This sassy zin is striking and well worth the price for this caliber of wine.

But for those who want a budget-savvy option, our runner-up is the Bella Grace, 2018 Amador County Zinfandel at $28. This zin is weighted to red fruit and has aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cranberry, pomegranate and plum. While fruit-driven, it also has some savory notes and a kick of spice.

As for the Fritz zinfandel, the vintner said the style he’s shooting for is a full-bodied zin with strong aromatics and a long, full finish. The winery’s gravity winemaking process, he said, is ideal for producing zins like this one.

The winemaking facility at Fritz in the Dry Creek Valley is built into a hillside, and its three-tier subterranean design allows it to harness gravity as it moves juice from the crush pad down to the tanks and barrels.

“It saves the juice from the detrimental effects of excessive pulsation and buffeting,” Fritz said. “It’s what maintains the delicate nuances in our zinfandels.”

“My father (Arthur Fritz) designed the facility with incredible foresight,” the vintner said.

Built in the late 1970s, the facility keeps the winery’s carbon footprint light, Fritz said. It maintains naturally cool temperatures and capitalizes on gravity, saving energy by forgoing pumps.

The Fritz family is from San Francisco and purchased property in the Dry Creek Valley in the 1960s. Fritz grew up learning from his father about land and vineyard cultivation and eventually the winemaking process. A second-generation winemaker, Fritz has been managing the family winery and estate since 2000.

The 110-acre estate produces between 5,000 and 7,000 cases every year. Varietals include zinfandel, malbec, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and petite sirah.

The grapes for the winning zin were groomed in an ideal location, Fritz said. Dutcher Creek Road is a unique growing area because it’s a benchland site.

“We can refine our taste with a perfect balance of low-yielding output with maximum flavors,” he said. “Dry Creek Valley is world-renowned for its terroir, and our estate zinfandel vines thrive within it. Soil structure and climate makes a superior setting for growing this specific varietal.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.