Wine of the Week: Gary Farrell, 2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
On the Fourth of July, there will be a quiet revolution playing out on Webers across America. Plant-based burgers are on the rise, according to MarketWatch. It reports that today most people who order vegan burgers at restaurants aren’t even vegetarians.
With this in mind, The Press Democrat decided to do a blind tasting for the holiday, pairing a line-up of wines with a Beyond Burger.
As for the winner, it was a close call. The Gary Farrell 2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir at $45 edged out the Anaba 2017 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir at $48. Both paired exceedingly well with the meatless patty. Other tasty matches, at a range of price points, include: Pedroncelli 2018, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, $22; Siduri 2018 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, $30 and the TL 2018 Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County Pinot Noir, $60.
The Gary Farrell is crisp, fruit forward and savory. It has notes of Bing cherry, cranberry and mushroom. Balanced, with bright acidity, it has a lingering note of cherry on the finish. The pinot works exceptionally well with the juicy and smoky flavors in the burger.
The Anaba also has great appeal because it’s a breezy pinot, with crisp acidity and tangy fruit, including cranberry, cherry and pomegranate. It has a supple texture and irresistible quench. It marries well with the Beyond Burger because its bright acid and high-toned fruit stand up to the smoky, savory flavors of the burger.
Theresa Heredia, winemaker of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, said she hasn’t tasted the Beyond Burger yet, but she was intrigued by a YouTube challenge of the Beyond Burger versus the Impossible Burger.
This Fourth of July, Heredia may host a socially distanced gathering of six to 10 people in her backyard.
“I was thinking we could set up small tables around the pool so that each section can accommodate each couple,” she said. “We wouldn’t offer shared food though. We would prepare the food on the grill and serve to each table ourselves wearing masks, so no sharing. And we would ask guests to bring their own sides. Maybe glassware could be provided by guests as well, or we offer disposable plastic glasses. We’ve done the same with wine, where only we touch the bottles, and we pour while wearing masks.”
Entertaining in a pandemic isn’t hard for this winemaker who has mastered health protocols at the winery.
Heredia joined Gary Farrell in 2012. She earned a master’s degree in enology and viticulture at UC Davis.
Asked if she’s had any epiphanies about winemaking during a pandemic, Heredia said sheltering in place may actually benefit the wine.
“I tasted all of our 2019 blends at my dining room table and sanitized the bottles in my dishwasher before sending them back,” Heredia said. “I was able to take more time than usual, because I was tasting in my own space. I think it worked out well for the wines. … It’s possible to make great wines, even during a pandemic.”
This Week’s Blind Tasting
Beyond Burger Reds
Gary Farrell 2017 Russian River Valley, Pinot Noir, 13.3%, $45. 4 ½ stars. A great pick for our Beyond Burger Reds tasting because this pinot is crisp, fruit forward and savory. Notes of Bing cherry, cranberry and mushroom. Balanced, with bright acidity. Lingering note of cherry on the finish. Works well with the juicy and smoky flavors in the burger. Striking.
Anaba 2017 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, 13.9%, $48. 4 ½ stars. This is a breezy pinot, with crisp acidity and tangy fruit, including cranberry, cherry and pomegranate. It has a supple texture and irresistible quench. It marries well with the Beyond Burger because its bright acid and high-toned fruit stand up to the smoky, savory flavors of the burger. Impressive.
TL 2018 Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County Pinot Noir, 12.75%, $60. 4 stars. With red and black fruit, this pinot is also a touch earthy with a hint of tobacco. Its note of smoke makes it a tasty Beyond Burger match. The balanced pinot has great structure and nice length. Well crafted.
Siduri 2018 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, 14.5%, $30. 4 stars. This pinot is a tasty Beyond Burger match because it has crisp acid coupled with bright red fruit – cranberry and raspberry. It’s also a touch spicy, with a hint of white pepper and cumin, which adds dimension to the pairing. Edgy.
Pedroncelli 2018, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, 13.5%, $22. 3 ½ stars. A pinot that over delivers at this price point. Lightly toasted, it has a note of vanilla in the mix of vibrant fruit – strawberry and pomegranate. With bright fruit riding on crisp acid, the pinot’s fruit stands up to the smoky-flavored burger without overplaying its hand. Smart.
Key
5 stars – Classic
4 stars – Highly recommended
3 stars – Good
2 stars – Limited appeal
1 star – Not recommended
You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.
Peg Melnik
Wine, The Press Democrat
Northern California is cradled in vines; it’s Wine County at its best in America. My job is to help you make the most of this intriguing, agrarian patch of civilization by inviting you to partake in the wine culture – the events, the bottlings and the fun. This is a space to explore wine, what you care about or don’t know about yet.
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