Wine of the week: Schramsberg, 2017 North Coast Brut Rosé

Romantics are hoping you’ll uncork a splash of pink this Valentine’s Day because brut rosé holds great appeal for the amorous.

In a recent blind tasting of pink bubbles, The Press Democrat’s top pick was the Schramsberg, 2017 North Coast Brut Rosé at $47. Buoyed by bright acidity, this impressive rosé sparkler trumpets tangy red fruit — strawberry, cherry and pomegranate. Notes of brioche, vanilla and mango are also in the mix. The Schramsberg finishes crisp and it’s striking.

Other tasty pink sparklers include Domaine Carneros by Taittinger, NV Cuvee de la Pompadour Brut Rosé, 12%, $45; Gloria Ferrer, 2017 Carneros Brut Rosé, 12.5%, $52; J, NV Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Brut Rosé, 12.5%, $45, and Korbel, NV California Champagne Brut Rosé, 12%, $14.

As for the Schramsberg brut rosé, it has a “seamless, tart spine” because of the chardonnay in the blend, said Hugh Davies, president and CEO of Napa Valley’s Schramsberg Vineyards.

“Chardonnay lifts the wine’s fruitful intensity,” he said. “People don’t think of chardonnay in a rosé because it isn’t pink or red, but chardonnay plays a key role.”

The pinot noir in the blend is plucked from cool regions that range from Anderson Valley to Marin, including Sonoma and Carneros sites, Davies added.

“The Marin and Sonoma sites really give the wine its core essence of bright strawberry and cherry,” the vintner said. “The Anderson and Carneros sites lend structure and body.”

The coast, Davies said, is the reason brut rosés from California can stand up to the best sparklers produced in Champagne, France.

“It’s the giant, deep and really cold Pacific Ocean sitting off our coast that allows us to pick our fruit without need for chaptalization or acidification,” he said. Chaptalization is the process of adding sugar to unfermented grape must to boost alcohol content after fermentation. “We’ve really got incredible sparkling terroir right here along California’s North Coast.”

Davies, 55, earned a bachelor of science degree in food science and enology in 1995 from UC Davis. His credits include stints at Moet et Chandon in Champagne and Mumm Napa.

The vintner said he has worked at Schramsberg in Calistoga full-time for 25 years and these past years have been challenging.

“The Glass fire burned right through our property, but we are extraordinary thankful that our buildings and central infrastructure survived,” Davies said. “Firefighters, our crew and defensible space really saved us.”

The recent wildfires have forced the winery to be nimble, he said.

“Our property feels more secure, and we better understand how to contend with the prospect of wildfires,” Davies said. “We have independent water and power sources. We have fire equipment and firsthand knowledge. We have clean gutters and cleared-out underbrush.”

As for the pandemic, the vintner said the winery has flexed its “virtual” muscle and has a stronger connection with many of its customers.

“We have learned to market our wines more successfully without the benefit of visitors and restaurants,” Davies said, “but we can’t wait for them to come back.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.