Wine of the week: Sidebar, 2019 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc

Decisions about picking are always complex during harvest, but when you throw in the factor of smoke taint, it’s particularly tricky.

“Our biggest winemaking challenge has been reconciling when to pick our reds with the wait for smoke-impact test results,” said Lydia Cummins, winemaker of Healdsburg’s Sidebar Cellars. “We had a few days of panic when processing times started being predicted in weeks instead of days.”

Luckily the situation resolved itself when more certified laboratories moved through a backlog of tests, Cummins said.

The proactive winemaker, who believes in creating worst-case scenario protocols, is behind our wine of the week winner — the Sidebar, 2019 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc at $25. What makes this sauvignon blanc a standout is its quench — it’s refreshing with impeccable balance. It couples high-toned citrus fruit with crisp acidity. Layered, it has notes of grapefruit, mineral and a hint of lime zest. The Sidebar is impressive, a steal for this caliber of sauvignon blanc.

Other tasty sauvignon blancs include Matanzas Creek Winery, 2019 Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc at $20; Whitehaven, 2019 Marlborough, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc at $17; Ladera, 2019 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $36 and Turnbull’s Josephine, 2019 Oakville, Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $50.

As for the Sidebar, Cummins said the house style she’s shooting for is a sauvignon blanc with authenticity.

“One with true varietal character, without exaggeration, and immediate appeal for anyone just looking for something delicious with enough complexity for the contemplative drinker,” she said.

“The most challenging aspect of working with sauvignon blanc is crafting a wine that isn’t a caricature of itself. Sauvignon blanc has many aromatics that can overpower its subtleties.”

Harvesting for optimal balance and texture is the goal, Cummins said.

“Making the wine with a light hand using traditional methods yields a subtle, beautifully expressive wine that compliments food or may be appreciated on its own,” she said.

Curious by nature, Cummins was drawn to winemaking because it’s multifaceted and boots-on-the-ground physical.

“I was studying chemistry in college, but I found it too abstract,” she said. “I traveled to Madrid my junior year in college for an intensive language program and to spend time with family there. During my time in Spain, I began thinking about my chemistry coursework from an enological perspective.”

To understand wine, Cummins explained, you need an understanding of chemistry, soil science, botany, atmospheric science, geography, history, psychology and so much more.

“I find the study of wine and the craft of winemaking exciting and endlessly challenging because there is always more to learn.”

Cummins, 40, graduated from UC Davis in 2005 with a bachelor of science degree in viticulture and enology. Her credits include Zaca Mesa Winery in Santa Barbara, as well as Williams Selyem Winery and Kosta Browne Winery in Sonoma County. She joined Ramey Wine Cellars in 2008, and today she’s the associate winemaker, in addition to being the winemaker of Sidebar Cellars.

“Making wine during wildfires and a pandemic has been challenging, to say the least,” Cummins said. “But we’re making beautiful wines this vintage. Consumers can rest assured that no reputable California wine producers will bottle smoke-tainted wine.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.