Debby Eppstein moves a hose as she works on the landscaping around her property along Cougar Lane in Santa Rosa on Monday, Sept. 20, 2021. Eppstein and her husband, Mel, are not rebuilding their burned home, but will put in a tiny home on the property. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

A year after the Glass fire, rebuilding along Los Alamos Road is going slowly

Jim and Cathy Franchetti’s daughters are now adults. But when the girls were growing up, they often hosted friends at their house high up on Los Alamos Road, a few miles northeast of Santa Rosa. Horses grazed the family’s 11-acre spread. Both Katie and Jennie were avid riders. A sleepover at the Franchettis usually came with the chance to ride a horse.

There was a catch: A number of parents were reluctant to drive up that dark, winding road, with its white-knuckle sections of steep drop-offs with no guardrail. So Jim or Cathy would have to drive down the mountain and pick up the friends, then drop them off after the sleepover.

“That got a little old,” said Jim, with a smile, even as he acknowledged “there were nights when the clouds came in, and you couldn’t see the edge of the road.”

But it wasn’t fog that made the drive dangerous on the night of Sept. 27, 2020. The Glass fire had arrived at the Franchetti’s doorstep. Sparked early that morning some 7 miles away and fed by high winds and decades of dry, unburned timber, it came marauding up the west flanks of the Napa Valley and into Sonoma County.

A year after the fire, the recovery is still in its early stages for many property owners along Los Alamos. Driving up this sometimes perilous route, one is greeted by the sight of vacant lots, their concrete foundations scraped clean, with no sign of construction. These residents, who pride themselves on their pluck and self-reliance, are nowhere near getting back home.

By the time it was 100% contained, 23 days later, the Glass fire had charred 67,484 acres and destroyed 646 single and multifamily homes and 356 commercial buildings. Of those razed homes, 338 were in Sonoma County.

The Glass fire wrought a fearful amount of destruction up and down Los Alamos, leveling roughly 80 homes along its menacing switchbacks, and the smaller byways branching out from it, many of them private, narrow and hard for first responders to reach.

An injured fawn seeks refuge in what remains of a home destroyed by the Glass fire on Los Alamos Road on Oct. 2, 2020. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
An injured fawn seeks refuge in what remains of a home destroyed by the Glass fire on Los Alamos Road on Oct. 2, 2020. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

On their own

One reason for the slow pace of the recovery: “Out here you’ve got to do all your own infrastructure,” said Debby Eppstein. She and her husband, Mel, lost their house on Cougar Lane, a private road that branches off Los Alamos. In this unincorporated part of the county, “everybody’s gotta do their own wells, their own septic systems” — which were often damaged or destroyed by the fire.

County Supervisor Susan Gorin, who lost her east Santa Rosa home in the 2017 Nuns fire, is unsurprised by the plodding pace of the recovery up and down Los Alamos, which lies in her district. Coffey Park and Larkfield Estates, neighborhoods that rebounded with remarkable swiftness following the Tubbs fire four years ago, “were exceptions to the rule that rebuilding is a very long journey,” said Gorin, who sees herself as a case in point. “I just moved into my rebuild two weeks ago.”

Even if a home is connected to city water — most of the burned houses along Los Alamos weren’t — if the owner is uninsured or underinsured, or elderly and struggling with the challenge of rebuilding, it’s generally going to take two to four years to navigate this maze, Gorin believes.

“It’ll be 50 years before it looks anything like it did before this place burned. We’re gonna be looking at a lot of black for a long time.” ― Jim Franchetti

Nor has it helped, noted Franchetti, that Glass fire survivors have been trying to rebuild during a pandemic, subject to shortages of supplies and subcontractors, often leaving messages for employees at government offices, rather than getting actual humans on the phone. Some of his and Eppstein’s neighbors are still wrangling with insurance companies. Others aren’t coming back at all.

The fire was “pretty traumatic for some people,” said Franchetti, gazing at ridgelines bristling with thousands of charred, skeletal Douglas firs. “It’ll be 50 years before it looks anything like it did before this place burned.

“We’re gonna be looking at a lot of black for a long time.”

Not that he’s going anywhere.

The Franchettis have been up there for 46 years. As it is for many on Los Alamos, the remoteness is one of the main attractions. Even though Santa Rosa is just 4 miles away, “You have no city lights,” he said. “You can really see the stars at night.”

“Most of us up here are pretty resilient,” he said. “You have to be. When a tree falls across the road in a windstorm, we don’t wait for the county.”

Cathy and Jim Franchetti, along with their horse Levi, evacuated their property during the Glass fire one year ago. Their house and barn were saved from the devastating fire by a Cloverdale fire crew. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Cathy and Jim Franchetti, along with their horse Levi, evacuated their property during the Glass fire one year ago. Their house and barn were saved from the devastating fire by a Cloverdale fire crew. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Long night on the mountain

When Franchetti finally left his property, around 10:30 p.m. last Sept. 27, two of his neighbors’ homes were engulfed in flames. “I drove out with fire on both sides of the road,” recalled the 73-year-old.

Rolling down his driveway, towing a trailer occupied by Levi, a 12-year-old quarter horse Franchetti guessed “was the last critter off the mountain that night,” he was happy to see a strike team from the Cloverdale Fire Department approaching his house. He stopped and spoke with the crew’s captain, Kagen Davis.

The Glass fire by the numbers

Date: Sept. 27, 2020

Duration: 23 days

Acres burned: 67,484

Estimation of people evacuated: 70,000

Structures burned: 1,555

Homes burned: 334 in Sonoma County; 308 in Napa County

Deaths or injuries: 0

Key facts: The wildfire destroyed one of California’s oldest resorts, the White Sulpher Springs Resort; it also burned several wineries, including Castello di Amorosa winery near Calistoga and Chateau Boswell Winery near St. Helena. The cause is still under investigation.

He gave Davis a quick rundown, letting him know there was an extra water tank behind the house, and beyond that a 5-acre field his horses had grazed down to the dirt. If the crew needed it, said Franchetti, that field would serve as a safe place to ride out the fire.

They needed it.

As they “prepped” Franchetti’s house, pulling screens from windows, getting plastic and wood furniture off the deck, they noticed, with gratitude, that he’d cleared plenty of defensible space. The trees on the property had no branches within 15 feet of the ground, with no limbs hanging over the house.

Based on the prep work Franchetti had put in, and the availability of that safe zone, Davis made the decision to stay with the house through the night, even as the firestorm raged around him and his three-volunteer crew. One of them was an ex-Cal Fire employee with decades of firefighting experience. The other two were 18-year-olds, who performed very well, said Davis. “But it was basically their first fire.”

In making the decision to spend the night on the mountain, Davis was highly confident he and his crew could find refuge, if needed, in that 5-acre safe area. Davis was also all but certain “we could do a lot of good here. Even if we lost the garage, we could at least save the house.”

In fact, Kagen Davis and his Cloverdale crew saved all of Franchetti’s buildings. Which is why, a few weeks later, Jim and Cathy drove to the Cloverdale Fire Department with several hundred dollars worth of See’s Candies.

“Those fellows,” says Jim, “they just did a spectacular job.”

A home/worksite was burned over by September's Glass fire on Cougar Lane off Los Alamos Road on Oct. 7, 2020. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
A home/worksite was burned over by September's Glass fire on Cougar Lane off Los Alamos Road on Oct. 7, 2020. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Spirit of Cougar Lane

A mile or so below, residents on Cougar Lane were getting bad news. Two and a half miles long, the road is 10 feet wide. Unwilling to risk blocking evacuees, firefighters did not venture down that ribbon of asphalt. Fifteen of the 17 houses on Cougar Lane burned to the ground.

Debby Eppstein and Mel didn’t need to evacuate: They were in Utah, visiting her sister, when the Glass fire raced down the Santa Rosa Creek drainage, which crosses their property. They watched the conflagration on their home’s security camera. The last images it recorded were of a fox, looking into the lens as giant embers wafted past.

The fox was gone on a recent Sunday morning, replaced by a coyote howling into the shipping container that sits where their living room once did.

Actually, it was the plastic skeleton of coyote, an early Halloween item purchased that morning at Friedman’s, along with $1,000 worth of tools and plants.

Their first view of the desolation came last October, on Debby’s birthday. So apocalyptic was the tableau awaiting them that they decided to bug out. “We said there’s no way we’re ever going to live here again,” she recalled.

As months went by, their thinking slowly changed. They were inspired by the pluck of neighbors determined to get back: Eppstein refers to it as “the spirit of Cougar Lane.”

Residents have needed large stores of that spirit to persist. Around 10 Cougar Lane homeowners — those living beyond the bridge over the Santa Rosa Creek — had spent many thousands of dollars putting in power poles and electric lines, with the expectation that PG&E would take them over.

Before that could happen, the fire swept through. Those residents still have no electricity, a year after the blaze.

Debby Eppstein digs a hole as she works on the landscaping around her property along Cougar Lane in Santa Rosa on Monday, Sept. 20, 2021. Eppstein and her husband, Mel, are not rebuilding their burned home, but will put in a tiny home on the property. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Debby Eppstein digs a hole as she works on the landscaping around her property along Cougar Lane in Santa Rosa on Monday, Sept. 20, 2021. Eppstein and her husband, Mel, are not rebuilding their burned home, but will put in a tiny home on the property. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

As winter gave way to spring, new life emerged. In places, the burned landscape turned green. Eppstein points to redwoods around the foundation that have sprouted seedlings. On the sheer wall of the valley facing what was once their backdoor, vibrant green Bay laurel trees have claimed space amid the dead Doug firs.

They decided they would come back. Sort of.

While they now live in The Sea Ranch, they plan to put a tiny home on the Cougar Lane lot — along with the shipping container into which Mel has cut rectangles for a pair of sliding glass doors. Eppstein, meanwhile, is performing some serious horticultural artistry, transforming the concrete tiers of their foundation into an array of decks and giant planters.

“There will also be vegetable gardens,” she said, “and I’ll have flowers and shrubs going up the hillside.”

With so many of the surrounding trees now gone, they feel a bit exposed, in this new, barer landscape. But that missing cover has an upside. In the dead of winter, the sun doesn’t rise over the ridge until 11 a.m., then drops behind the tree line around 3 p.m.

“I always said, ‘If those trees weren’t there, I’d get more sun.’

“Well, I’m going to get more sun,” she said.

Eric Worden lost his Los Alamos Road house built by his grandfather, Al Nicholson, in the Glass fire one year ago. When his old tractor couldn't move the large rock, top, he just built the house and the indoor Koi pond around it. Photo taken on Thursday, Sept. 16, 2021. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Eric Worden lost his Los Alamos Road house built by his grandfather, Al Nicholson, in the Glass fire one year ago. When his old tractor couldn't move the large rock, top, he just built the house and the indoor Koi pond around it. Photo taken on Thursday, Sept. 16, 2021. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

What do you want me to save?’

The scene on Los Alamos was quiet on a recent weekday, almost eerily so. The notable exception was the 45-acre Worden compound, directly across from the vast rock formation known as Eagle Rock. The outcropping so arresting that it appears in the literature of Jack London and was chosen as the background for a Ford Explorer print ad campaign two decades ago.

“It was shot right here,” said Eric Worden, motioning to the parking area outside the large, metal workshop that survived the fire. “It was in National Geographic and Sports Illustrated.”

Worden, who owns Redwood Empire Concrete Pumping Equipment, raised his voice to be heard over the cacophony created by a drill rig that was costing him $4,000 a day, boring dozens of holes for the concrete piers for the foundation of the house that will replace, but not duplicate, the building his grandfather, Al Nicholson, designed after buying this land in the 1930s. The family lost four other, smaller houses in the inferno.

Eric Worden lost his Los Alamos Road house built by his grandfather, Al Nicholson, in the Glass fire one year ago. The house featured a 1,600-square-foot main room with a curved window that was 13 feet high and nearly 40 feet long. Photo taken on Thursday, Sept. 16, 2021. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Eric Worden lost his Los Alamos Road house built by his grandfather, Al Nicholson, in the Glass fire one year ago. The house featured a 1,600-square-foot main room with a curved window that was 13 feet high and nearly 40 feet long. Photo taken on Thursday, Sept. 16, 2021. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

They did not, however, lose Diesel, the ornery, independent, short-tailed cat who refused to get in the car, as usual, when it was time to evacuate.

They found him two days later, under a pickup that somehow also survived.

“Every inch of this place was burned black, but there was Diesel,” Worden recalled, “sitting up on top of the differential.”

Al Nicholson had salvaged several vast redwood beams from the Brown’s Canyon Trestle, when that Occidental railroad bridge was dismantled in the mid-1940s.

“He pretty much put those beams up, then built the house around ‘em,” said Worden, who intends to recreate, as closely as possible, that house’s grandest feature: a 1,600-square-foot living room with a curved window, 38 feet long and 13 feet high.

The family had seen many fires down through the years, blazes that burned up the valley, toward them, then “petered out,” he said. The fire they feared, but which had yet to happen, would be a conflagration blown by fierce winds over the mountain behind them.

“You know that fire we always talked about? It’s here. I’m standing in your bedroom. What do you want me to save?”

Worden was driving back from the family’s cabin near Mount Shasta with his wife and business partner, Vickie, when he got a call from his son, Corey.

“You know that fire we always talked about?” said Corey. “It’s here. I’m standing in your bedroom. What do you want me to save?”

The Wordens spent $200,000 — on everything from demolition, debris removal and septic services to architects, soils testers, and geotechnical engineers — before even breaking ground on the new place, which won’t be finished, Eric Worden figures, for at least a year and a half.

“Losing everything is heart-wrenching, in the beginning,” he said. “And then you kind of get used to it. And then you start thinking about what’s new, what’s coming.”

Last November marked the first time in 88 years that the family didn’t host an epic Thanksgiving celebration in that living room. But Worden kept the tradition on life support. As the family has done for half a century, he went to Willie Bird Turkeys on Highway 12 at the end of October and ordered their two biggest birds — then donated them to Meals on Wheels.

“Gonna do the same thing this year,” he said. “I want credit for the party. We gotta make it to 100 years.”

“Losing everything is heart wrenching, in the beginning. And then you kind of get used to it. And then you start thinking about what’s new, what’s coming.” ― Eric Worden

Promise kept

Moments after laying eyes on the ruins of his family’s Los Alamos Road house, Keith Rhinehart spoke these words: “Mom, I’m so sorry.”

Lillian Rhinehart, then 94, had been living in the distinctive A-frame on a promontory overlooking Eagle Rock. She and her husband, Chuck Rhinehart, a professor at Sonoma State University, had moved to the area in 1959 and fallen in love with it.

Chuck died peacefully, in that house, in 2008. The plan had been for Lillian to spend her final years there, as well.

Determined that this should still happen, Keith Rhinehart stood in the ruins of that house a year ago and vowed: “I’m gonna rebuild this sucker.”

Keith Rhinehart, right, and his mother, Lillian Rhinehart, walk through their rebuilt home along Los Alamos Road in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, Sept. 22, 2021. The home was destroyed a year ago in the Glass fire. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Keith Rhinehart, right, and his mother, Lillian Rhinehart, walk through their rebuilt home along Los Alamos Road in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, Sept. 22, 2021. The home was destroyed a year ago in the Glass fire. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

Easier said than done, especially during a pandemic. Yet there was Keith Rhinehart, a noted local gadfly, raconteur and recent write-in candidate for the Santa Rosa City Council, standing outside a close-to-finished home earlier this week. Of all the rebuilds on the upper reaches of Los Alamos, his appears to be nearest to completion.

On a suggestion from his girlfriend, who lost her home in the Tubbs fire, Rhinehart consulted Santa Rosa-based Wright Builders. Owner Phil Wright showed them a house his company had finished in Coffey Park.

“Mom walked in,” he recalled, “and she said ‘I love it! Let’s build this one.’”

Instead of drawing up plans from scratch, the Rhineharts hired the architect of that house, the Santa Rosa-based firm Integrated Design, to create a custom home based on the one it had designed in Coffey Park — a huge timesaver. Standing in a vaulted great room as painters worked around him, Rhinehart noted that this house is 6 feet taller than its predecessor, “but basically the same shape.”

All that remains to be done, once the painting is finished, are the floors, countertops and appliances. The builder is committed to finishing by the end of October, though Rhinehart hopes he might cross the line a couple weeks earlier.

Lillian Rhinehart, meanwhile, is going strong at 95. She still drives, and she has no qualms about piloting her car up the sketchy and dramatically steep, narrow driveway to the house. “Well, she’s been doing it for 60 years,” noted her son.

“All things considered, she’s doing great.”

And in a month or so, she’s going home.

You can reach Staff Writer Austin Murphy at 707-521-5214 or austin.murphy@pressdemocrat. com or on Twitter @ausmurph88.

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