PINOT A PERFECT FOIL FOR DUCK

Our Wine of the Week, Pellegrini Olivet Lane 2005 Russian River Valley

Pinot Noir ($30), is soft and delicate, with that enchanting something that

distinguishes the varietal from other grapes.

A few days ago, I was pouring the wine at sunset. As the last intense rays

streamed in the window and the horizon glowed orange, I held the glass up to

the sunlight. Illuminated by the day's weakening rays, the wine glowed with

clarity and brilliance, as if some unseen hand had used a magic wand to stir

garnets into liquid. It was almost too pretty to drink.

This prettiness is the first quality to engage your palate. Suddenly,

you're thinking of cherries, not so much because the wine actually tastes like

cherries but because it evokes the essence of their flavor, especially the

high notes that fill your mouth when you first bite into one that is perfectly

but not overly ripe.

The wine remains light and elegant on the palate as flavors broaden and

deepen into veins of earth - think mushrooms, if you will - and delicate

spice.

As you sip, the wine's acidity becomes increasingly apparent, nudging you

in the direction you should go when pairing it with food.

I thoroughly enjoyed this Olivet Lane pinot alongside a casual dish of

strozzapreti, sauteed sweet onion, Point Reyes Blue Cheese and rare hanger

steak, sliced thin. The heat of the pasta melted the cheese, which combined

with the nearly caramelized onion and in turn bathed the meat with seductively

sweet and salty flavors.

I could stop right there, tell you how I made the dish and be done with it.

However, I was lucky enough to talk about this wine with its maker, Kevin

Hamel (who also makes wine under his own label, Hamel). One night while he was

working late, Bob Pellegrini offered him dinner, duck legs and breasts from

Willowside Meats marinated in white wine and rosemary.

"The freshness and acidity of the wine was a perfect - and I do mean

perfect - foil for the fattiness of the duck," he explained, adding that he's

also been enjoying it with spring onions sauteed in bacon and tossed with

penne, mushrooms and fresh peas.

For today's recipe, I've taken inspiration from both my spur-of-the-moment

dish and Kevin's pleasing pairings.

Keep in mind that this is a flexible recipe, one that you can use as a

template and vary depending on the season.

Strozzapreti with Seared Duck, Spring Onions, Bacon and Fresh Favas

Makes 2 servings

Kosher salt

6 ounces strozzapreti or other medium-sized rolled pasta

3 thick-cut bacon slices

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 spring onion or sweet onion, trimmed and and cut into thin slices

-Duck breast

-Black pepper in a mill

1 cup fresh favas, blanched and peeled

2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley or fresh basil

Fill a medium saucepan two-thirds full with water, add a tablespoon of

kosher salt and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water boils, add the

pasta and stir until the water returns to a boil. Cook according to pasta

directions until the pasta is al dente, about 20 to 24 minutes for most

brands. Drain the pasta but do not rinse it.

Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a medium saute pan until it is crisp. Transfer

the bacon to absorbent paper and pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the bacon

fat.

Return the pan to the heat, add the olive oil and saute the onion until it

is limp and fragrant, about 10 to 12 minutes. Season with salt and remove from

the heat.

Score the duck skin, making slashes about every inch, cutting almost but

not entirely through the skin. Season it all over with salt and pepper. Heat a

scored cast iron pan over high heat and when it is very hot, add the duck,

skin side down. Cook until the skin is crisp and has given up much of its fat.

Turn and cook the duck skin-side up until it is just rare, 2 to 3 minutes. It

will still be soft when pressed with your finger.

Set the cooked duck on a work surface and let rest 3 or 4 minutes.

Put the pasta into a warm serving bowl and toss with the onions and all the

pan juices. Add the favas and toss again.

Cut the duck into thin slices and add to the pasta. Quickly crumble the

bacon, scatter on top, add the parsley and basil and toss very gently. Serve

immediately.

Variations: You can omit the bacon and saute the onions in olive oil. Add 2

ounces crumbled blue cheese to the pasta with the cooked onions.

Instead of using duck, you can use beef; I particularly like this dish with

hanger steak. If you don't have fresh favas use fresh peas, blanched until

just barely tender.

Michele Anna Jordan can be contacted at michele@micheleannajordan.com.