At a hootenanny in a handsome, old barn Saturday evening, Sonoma was on the plates, in the glasses and up on the stage.

The Farm Trails “BBQ, Brews & BarnDance” was a close-to-the-land celebration of local cheeses, meats and vegetables, as well as local wines, beers, ciders and music.

It happened at the historic Dutton Ranch near Sebastopol, and it began with a Meet Your Farmer cheese and brews reception. When the time came for the main course, Daniel Kedan and Marianna Gardenhire of Backyard, in Forestville, set out a grand buffet.

The food and brews were produced and provided by members of Farm Trails. Among the delights: mixed grill with steak, pulled pork and lamb sausage, grilled tempeh, baked heirloom beans, polenta with maitake mushrooms, and strawberries with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream.

Proceeds of the evening will benefit one of Farm Trails’ labors of love, the Gravenstein Apple Fair, “the Sweetest Little Fair in Sonoma County.” The 42nd Apple Fair will happen Aug. 8 and 9 at Sebastopol’s Ragle Ranch Park.

There was a live auction Saturday, then the all-stars of the Cahoots band struck it up and gave the crowd an irresistible reason to dance local.