Pairings: Sauv blanc stands up to spicy Thai-style pork salad

Our Wine of the Week, Silver Trident Winery 2018 Symphony No. 9 Sauvignon Blanc ($32), is a racy little devil, with a coy slyness that emerges with the complex aromas and continues through the vibrant finish.

Within the aromas that envelop you as you raise your glass, you’ll find hints of lemon blossom, orange blossom, vanilla and just a bit of jasmine, which comes and goes like an early summer breeze. On the palate, there’s an initial invigorating blast of minerality and acidity.

After this initial wavelike splash, temperature determines what will unfold next. At first, I noticed hints of lemon, nectarine and green bean. As the wine warmed a bit, hints of banana, warm butter and toast blossomed.

Within all these swirling flavors and aromas, there are bursts of bitterness and heat; the wine weighs in at 14.1% alcohol. These two qualities can be key to effective pairings.

This wine can stand up to foods that normally might suggest a chardonnay or even a red wine. You have to make adjustments, but the plushness of certain foods - summer corn, polenta, soft cheeses, lobster and even a ribeye steak - resonates beautifully with the wine’s depth and texture. Add a spritz of lemon to such foods and the match will soar.

The wine is also excellent with zucchini, celery, cabbage, green beans and green papaya. It can take a bit of heat, too, which is the inspiration for today’s dish. Don’t overdo the heat or the wine may turn bitter. But a little heat adds to the wine’s buoyancy and complexity.

You don’t have to use pork in this dish; any ground meat that you prefer will do.

Thai-style Pork Salad ?with Napa Cabbage

Serves 3 to 4

1 small or ½ large Napa cabbage

¼ cup fresh spearmint leaves, cut into thin julienne

¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon peanut oil or mild olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated

1 pound ground pork

- Scant ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

- Zest of 2 limes

2 teaspoons toasted and ground dried galanga (available at Asian markets), optional

2 tablespoons ground toasted rice (available at Asian markets), optional

½ cup shelled peanuts, roasted or lightly toasted

1 small serrano, minced

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

1 scallion, trimmed and cut into diagonal pieces

2 teaspoon sesames seeds, lightly toasted

Remove any darkened or damage leaves from the cabbage, rinse it under cool tap water and wrap it in a clean tea towel to dry.

Starting at the top of the cabbage, cut it into ¼- to 3/8-inch-wide crosswise ribbons. Use your fingers to fluff the cabbage and transfer it to a large bowl. Add half the mint and half the cilantro, toss and set aside; you should have about 6 cups of sliced cabbage.

Heat the oil in a sauté pan set over medium-low heat, add the garlic and ginger and sauté for ?1 minute. Add the pork and cook, breaking it up with a fork, until it loses its raw look. Stir in the red pepper flakes, lime zest, galanga and toasted rice, if using, and remove from the heat. Add the peanuts and toss again.

In a small bowl, combine the serrano, lime juice, fish sauce and sugar. Drizzle half of the sauce over the pork and toss quickly.

To serve, divide the cabbage mixture among individual plates or bowls. Spoon pork and the pan juices over the cabbage and drizzle with the remaining dressing.

Scatter some of the remaining mint and cilantro along with the scallions over each portion. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.