Pairing: Petite Sirah with Chili Colorado

Bogle Vineyards 2013 Petite Sirah ($11), our Wine of the Week, packs a wallop of concentrated fruit. It’s a lumberjack sort of wine that makes a huge first impression but then becomes playful and light-hearted, skipping across the palate with bursts of nutmeg, juniper berry, allspice, brambles, smoke and vanilla. It’s as rich as homemade blackberry jam and as complex as the best barbecue sauces. Tannins are like a well-toned six-pack, tight, muscular and masculine.

This meaty quaffer is excellent with smoky flavors, from smoked mozzarella and cheddar cheese to smoked lamb, smoked beef and smoked venison. It will go well with almost anything from the grill, including eggplant and root vegetables.

Rich sauces such as traditional ragu and Bolognese are lovely matches. If you want to go retro, serve the wine with a cheese fondue and one of Revolution Bakery’s hearty breads.

For today’s recipe, I’m indulging in a guilty pleasure inspired by Cincinnati Chili Spaghetti, a regional dish that pairs a mild ground beef chili of sorts with spaghetti and cheddar cheese. To make the match work, I toned down the heat and added smoked paprika.

The flavor of the chili improves when refrigerated for a day or two, which makes it a perfect dish to take on your final camping trip of the season.

Chili Colorado Spaghetti with Cheddar Cheese

Serves 6 to 8

2 pounds, approximately, well-marbled beef chuck roast

- Kosher salt

2 tablespoons lard or olive oil

1 large yellow or white onion, cut into small dice

3 garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons Gerhardt’s chili powder

1 tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 10-ounce cans Las Palmas red chili sauce

- Black pepper in a mill

1 pound spaghetti or spaghettini, regular or from corn flour

10-12 ounces grated cheddar cheese

Set a large, deep, heavy sauté pan over high heat. Season the chuck roast all over with salt and, when the pan is hot, sear it on one side until it is evenly brown, about 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side. Transfer to a plate or cutting surface and set aside to cool.

Add the lard or olive oil to the pan, lower the heat to medium, add the onion and sauté until very soft and fragrant, about 15 minutes; do not let the onions brown.

Add the garlic and sauté 2 minutes more. Season lightly with salt.

While the onions cook, cut the meat into small dice. When the onions and garlic are cooked, stir in the meat and sprinkle the flour over everything. Stir and cook 2 minutes.

Stir in the chili powder, paprika, cumin and oregano. Add the vinegar and stir gently.

Pour in the chili sauce and 1 cup of water and stir well. If the mixture seems a bit too thick, add a bit more water. Cover and cook until the meat is very tender, about 2 to 2 ½ hours. Uncover and cook for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the sauce is reduced a bit.

Taste, correct for salt and season with several turns of black pepper.

Remove from the heat and keep hot or cool, then refrigerate for a day or two.

To finish, fill a large pot two-thirds full with water, add a generous tablespoon of salt and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the pasta, stir until the water returns to a boil and cook according to package directions until the pasta is just tender. Drain but do not rinse the pasta.

Divide the pasta among individual pasta bowls or plates and spoon the Chili Colorado over it. Top with cheese and serve right away.

Email Michele Anna Jordan at michele@saladdresser.com. You’ll find her blog, “Eat This Now,” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.