John Ash of Santa Rosa, known as the “Father of Wine Country Cuisine” and one of the region’s most renowned chefs, has always been a visionary, capturing the zeitgeist of his time while gazing presciently into the future.
When he first opened his namesake restaurant, John Ash & Company, in Montgomery Village in 1980, it was one of the first in Northern California to focus on local, seasonal ingredients and to create dishes that complemented the wines being made in the region. Now, more than 35 years later, nearly all restaurant chefs worth their salt aspire to meet that high standard.
As an international cooking teacher, Ash also educated a new generation of home cooks eager to eat more simply and more ethically, closer to the fresh flavors of the gardens and farms in their own back yards.
Now the award-winning cookbook author has released his fifth tome, “Cooking Wild” (Running Press, $35), which feeds into several hot food trends, from Heritage breeds and the Paleo diet to the wildly popular foraging fad, best exemplified by Danish superstar chef René Redzepi of Noma restaurant in Copenhagen.
It joins an impressive collection of previous books, all promoting the lessons of locavore eating to an even wider audience: “American Game Cooking” in 1991; “From the Earth to the Table” in 1995 (updated in 2007); “John Ash Cooking One-on-One” in 2004; and “Culinary Birds” in 2013.
For Ash, who grew up with his grandparents on an isolated mountain ranch in Colorado, foraging was not a fashionable pastime but a lifelong skill he developed out of necessity. In his new book, he elevates it into a lofty ambition that could help feed the world in the future.
“My grandmother taught me how to forage wild plants such as lamb’s-quarter, wild asparagus, purslane and huckleberries, and to catch trout with my hands,” Ash writes in the introduction to “Cooking Wild.” “It’s important today to identify and preserve wild foods, for they represent a biodiversity that can help us maintain our food supply and feed our rapidly growing population.”
Like his award-winning “Culinary Birds,” the new book was written in conjunction with James O. Fraioli and features Instagram-worthy photographs of raw ingredients and finished dishes. The cookbook covers spring treasures like fiddlehead ferns and ramps as well as the earthy bounty of porcini and black trumpet mushrooms in fall and winter.
All 150 inventive and seasonal recipes are made from uncultivated foods — many found as close as your local supermarket — and range from Grilled Asparagus with Pecorino and Prosciutto to Rockfish Cakes with Homemade Tartar Sauce.
“Seafood is the last of the truly wild organisms on earth,” said Ash, who has worked closely with Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch initiative to help consumers make environmentally sound, sustainable choices. “Already, 50 percent of our seafood is farmed. In a generation or two, truly wild seafood may be a luxury food.”
Many Wine Country back yards contain stinging nettles, whose prickly leaves harbor painful formic acid. Once cooked, they thankfully lose their sting and provide an array of nutrients, from iron and potassium to vitamins A and C.
“Choose young plants (less than a knee high) when foraging, and be sure to protect yourself by wearing gloves, pants and long sleeves,” Ash advises. “Pick just the top four leaves.”
Cookbooks by John Ash
“American Game Cooking” by John Ash and Sid Goldstein (1991): It concentrates on farm-raised game birds and meats likely found in grocery stores — wild boar, buffalo, duck, goose, quail and venison, with generic wine pairings. Running Press published a second edition in 1993.
“From the Earth to the Table” by John Ash and Sid Goldstein (1995): This cookbook summarized Ash’s philosophy and the cooking style inspired by his long-time association with the now-defunct Fetzer Vineyard’s Valley Oaks Food and Wine Center. It won 1996 IACP awards for Best American Cookbook and Julia Child Cookbook of the Year. First Chronicle Books published a revised edition in 2007.
“John Ash Cooking One-on-One” by John Ash with Amy Mintzer (2004): Ash reduced his cooking instruction to some simple principals — flavor-boosters, basic cooking techniques and main ingredients. It won a 2005 James Beard Award.
“Culinary Birds” by John Ash with James O. Fraioli (2013): This book features more than 170 ways to enjoy poultry. It won a 2014 James Beard Award.
“Cooking Wild” by John Ash and James O. Fraioli (2016, Running Press): This cookbook circles back to Ash’s first tome while enlarging the scope of wild foods to include vegetables and fruits, grains and seafood.