Pairings: Floral white complements this zesty mac'n'cheese

Our Wine of the Week, Lang & Reed Wine Company 2016 Napa Valley Chenin Blanc ($27), is interesting, engaging and familiar in a rather puzzling way. There’s a lushness to it that is evocative of chardonnay but its crisp acidity and citrusy overtones suggest otherwise. There’s a fruitiness that borders on floral that makes me think of viognier but then those flavors dissolve into a minerality and hint of sea mist that viognier never expresses.

So what gives?

It’s a chenin blanc, a varietal we do not see that often from California producers.

It is very classy and food friendly and is a wine you’ll want to remember when late spring and early summer crops such as fresh favas, zucchini and cucumbers are ready for harvest. For now, enjoy it with sautéed fish, especially snapper, sanddabs and Petrale sole.

The wine also works beautifully with some of the foods of early spring than can be difficult to pair successfully. A salad of shaved fennel and artichokes hearts dressed with lemon-feta vinaigrette is a great match, as is roasted asparagus with egg mimosa. Green olive tapenade, tangy cured meats such as prosciutto, and acidic cheeses such as feta all encourage this lovely wine to blossom into its full self.

Today’s recipe is inspired by a dish from “Sephardic Flavors: Jewish Cooking of the Mediterranean” by Joyce Goldstein (Chronicle Books, 2000, $35). Goldstein’s traditional version hails from Komotini, a city in northeastern Greece in the region of East Macedonia and Thrace. It calls for a smaller pasta but I like the way the sauce clings to the folds of strozzapretti or gemelli. I’ve added what amounts to a sort of gremolata of green olives, green peppercorns, and lemon zest as these flavors, when combined with the creamy pasta, make the match soar.

An Unusual Macaroni & Cheese, with Green Olives & Lemon Zest

Makes 4 to 6 servings

- Kosher salt

1 pound strozzapreti or gemelli

1/3 cup, approximately, green olives, pitted and minced

2 teaspoons brined green peppercorns, drained and lightly crushed

- Grated zest of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives or chopped fresh Italian parsley

11/2 cup half-and-half or whole milk

1/2 (2 ounces) cup crumbled feta cheese

- Black pepper in a mill

1/4 cup (1 ounce) grated Vella Dry Jack, Estero Gold or similar cheese

Fill a large pot two-thirds full with water, add a generous 2 tablespoons kosher salt and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water reaches a rolling boil, add the pasta, stir until the water returns to boil and cook according to package directions until just done. Drain the pasta but do not rinse it.

While the pasta cooks, put the minced olives, green peppercorns, lemon zest and chives or parsley into a small bowl, season lightly with salt, toss gently, cover and set aside.

Meanwhile, put the half-and-half or milk into a large saucepan, add the cheese and heat gently over low heat. Tip in the drained pasta, stir and cook over low heat until the pasta has absorbed nearly all the liquid.

Taste the pasta, correct for salt and season with several turns of black pepper.

Divide the pasta among individual pasta bowls or soup plates and top each portion with some of the olive mixture. Enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 24 books to date, including “California Home Cooking.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.