Seasonal Pantry: Cozy up to bean dishes infall

Fall is shell bean season, not just in our gardens and farms, where fresh shell beans have been ready for picking the last few weeks, but also in our kitchens, where their aromas mingle beautifully with the fall air. It is time, or nearly so, for red beans and rice, bean tamales, bean tostadas and cassoulet.

Several farmers market vendors have this season's beans for sale, some still in their pods and others that have been shelled. I don't want to single out any particular farmer because there are limited quantities, and the quality is nearly uniformly good. The best place to start is at the farmers market closest to where you live.

Another excellent option is, of course, Rancho Gordo beans. The company is based in Napa and the quality of their beans and other products, including dried corn for posole, is unsurpassed. They are widely available throughout the North Bay.

Even commercial supermarket beans, both dried and canned, are pretty good. They are not as suave, silky, or flavorful as local beans or beans from Rancho Gordo, but they will still make a good meal. It's not like, say, out of season apricots or supermarket tomatoes, both of which I find inedible. In a pinch, dried beans of any kind will do well by you, as long as you cook them long enough with enough liquid and season them well.

Both of today's recipes are a tad old school, in that they come from my deep archives and have their roots in the late 1960s and early 1970s. This quality is perfect for fall, too, which I have always found to be a particularly nostalgic time.

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Purists will argue that this is not a true pot pie and they are right: It does not have a bottom crust. But it is close enough, I think, to warrant the moniker, which separates it from soup or stew. You can, if you prefer, forego the puff pastry and serve it simply as a bowl of beans, which case you might want to add a scoop of rice in the center of each portion.

Black Bean & Mushroom Pot Pie

Makes 6 servings

1 pound black beans, preferably local or from Rancho Gordo

- Kosher salt

1 sprig oregano

1 sprig thyme

1 sprig Italian parsley

1 bay leaf

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 yellow onion, cut into small dice

12 ounces portobello or crimini mushrooms, cut into small dice

4 garlic cloves, crushed and minced

- Black pepper in a mill

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½-1 teaspoon chipotle powder

2 cups vegetable stock

1 package puff pasty, cold but not frozen

1 serrano, cut in half lengthwise to (but not through) its stem

3 tablespoons crème fraiche

6 scallions, trimmed and very thinly sliced, or ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

The night before preparing the dish, put the beans into a heavy pot, cover with water by about 3 inches and let soak.

Drain the beans, tip them into a bean pot or large saucepan, cover with water by 2 inches, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently under the beans are just tender, about 40 minutes. Season with salt and remove from the heat.

Use a piece of twine to tie the herb sprigs and bay leaf together; set it aside briefly.

Heat the oil in large, deep sauté pan set over medium-low heat, add the onion and sauté until it is soft and fragrant, about 11 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté until they soften, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté 2 minutes more. Season with salt and several turns of black pepper.

Stir in the cumin, chipotle powder, vegetable stock and 1 cup water; add the herbs.

Simmer gently until the beans are very tender and the flavors have come together; if the beans seem to be drying out, add more water, ¼ cup at a time.

Taste, correct for salt and pepper and remove from the heat. The mixture should be moist and creamy but not soupy. Let it rest 10 to 15 minutes; use tongs to find and discard the serrano and the herbs.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Ladle the beans into individual ovenproof crocks or bowls.

Working quickly, cut the puff pastry into diamond shapes the width of the crocks or bowls and set one on top of each portion. Press the tips of the pastry down to secure it to the bowl. The puff pastry will not cover the beans entirely; a portion will be exposed.

Carefully set the crocks or bowls on a sheet pan and set the pan in the oven. Cook until the puff pasty has risen and is golden brown, about 12 minutes.

Carefully remove from the oven and, protecting your hands, set each serving on a heat-proof serving platter. Drizzle the exposed beans with a little crème fraiche, scatter scallions or cilantro over the top and enjoy right away.

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Don't let “6 to 8 servings” put you off, as the soup improves with age for two to three days and is quite easy to reheat.

Black Bean Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 pound black beans, rinsed and soaked in water overnight

3 tablespoons homemade lard or olive oil

1 yellow onion, cut into small dice

1 carrot, peeled and minced

1 celery stalk, minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 bay leaf

2 serranos, cut in half lengthwise to but not through the stems

4 ounces Cheddar or similar cheese, grated

2 large ripe tomatoes, diced

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

3 tablespoons creme fraiche, thinned with 2 tablespoons half and half or whole milk

1 lime, cut in wedges

Drain the beans and set them aside briefly.

Put the olive oil or lard into a large soup pot set over medium low heat, add the onion, carrot and celery and sauté gently until they have softened, about 15 minutes.

Add the garlic and sauté 2 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the cumin and red pepper flakes.

Add 6 cups of water, the bay leaf and the serranos and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until the beans are very tender; it will take from 40 to 75 or so minutes, depending on the variety. Stir every 15 minutes or so and add more water as needed; do not let the beans on the bottom of the pan burn.

When the beans are fully tender, remove them from the heat and let rest about 15 minutes. Use tongs to remove and discard the bay leaf and serranos.

Use an immersion blender to puree half or all of the soup; puree it all for a smoother texture. Taste and correct for salt and pepper. If it seems a bit too thick for soup, add a little water.

Ladle into wide soup bowls or soup plates. Top each portion with cheese, tomatoes and cilantro and then drizzle a bit of creme fraiche over everything.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “California Home Cooking.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.