Seasonal Pantry: Tiny carrots inspire big dreams in the kitchen

At the Sebastopol farmers market last weekend, I was dazzled by Armstrong Valley Farm’s carrots. The just-harvested colorful gems - white, orange and purple - ranged in size from about the first joint of your little finger to what we would typically call a small carrot, about 4 inches long.

“The orange ones are really sweet, too,” farmer Tom Noble told me when I asked if the white carrots were the sweetest, which they typically are. I gathered up a big bag of them and headed home, feeling like I’d won a jackpot at some earthy casino.

These carrots grow in a hoop house, where temperatures can hit 80 degrees, even at this time of year. Still, they must have benefited from out recent cold snap: It is these low temperatures that turn carrots, and a range of other vegetables, sweet.

Several other market vendors have great carrots right now, too, but only Tom Noble has the tiny ones. He sells at the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market, located in the west side parking lot of Luther Burbank Center, of the Arts on Wednesday and Saturday.

Carrots are one of the things we can eat with abandon, unless you happen to be on a diet that restricts carbohydrates. But carrots are low in calories and high in vitamins and micronutrients. They also please almost everyone, including young kids who are picky eaters.

I’ve adapted today’s recipes to work with Tom Noble’s carrots. For more carrot recipes, including for Algerian carrots, carrot risotto, fettuccine with carrots and black olive butter and fabulous carrot fritters, visit “Eat This Now” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.

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There are countless versions of glazed carrots with ginger, but most recipes I’ve seen are a tad too sweet for my taste. The addition of a fair amount of honey or brown sugar eclipses the natural sweetness of the carrots; this version contains just enough sugar to coax the carrots and the ginger into blossoming.

Glazed Carrots with Ginger and Peppercorns

Makes 4 to 6 servings

11/2 pounds very small carrots, trimmed and scrubbed

- Kosher salt

4 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon brown sugar, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground white peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns, toasted, crushed, and strained

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, optional

If the carrots are very small, leave them whole. If they are not, cut them into 1/2-inch thick diagonal slices.

Set a medium saucepan over medium heat, add the butter, sugar and ginger and stir until the butter is melted and the sugar is dissolved. Season with salt and add the vinegar.

Add the carrots to the pan, turn them to coat them in the butter mixture, reduce the heat to low and cook gently until the carrots are tender, about 13 minutes.

Stir in the peppercorns, taste, correct for salt and sugar balance and add the cilantro, if using. Tip into a serving dish and enjoy right away.

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This dish is simple, delicious and flexible. Use just one of the herbs, omit the feta or add some chopped black olives. It is always a crowd pleaser, especially when you use really great carrots.

Moroccan Carrot Salad

Makes 6 servings

2 pounds very small carrots, trimmed and scrubbed (see Note below)

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

4 garlic cloves, minced

11/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1/2 to 1 teaspoon hot Spanish paprika, piment d’Espelette or similar ground chile

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint (optional)

4 ounces feta, diced or crumbled (optional)

- Black pepper in a mill

Steam the carrots over a small amount of water until they are tender when pierced with a fork, but not mushy. Time will vary based on the size of the carrots; start testing at about 6 minutes if they are quite small. When the carrots are ready, drain them and set them aside to cool to room temperature.

Put the cooled carrots into a wide shallow bowl and sprinkle the teaspoon of salt over them. Add the garlic, cumin and paprika (or whatever chile you are using) and toss gently and thoroughly.

Add the lemon juice and toss again. Add the olive oil, toss and set aside for a few minutes.

Just before serving, add the herbs and the feta cheese, if using. Add several turns of black pepper, taste and correct for salt and enjoy at room temperature.

Note: This recipe has been adapted to work with the tiny carrots that Armstrong Valley Farm currently has. If you make this dish with larger carrots, you may want to peel them and cut thing into 1/4-inch wide diagonal slices.

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The soup is inspired by a traditional recipe from Paraguay that I came across in “The South American Table” (Harvard Common Press, 2003) by Maria Baez Kijac. The original recipe includes a teaspoon of sugar, plus more to taste if the soup tastes flat. If you are using locally grown carrots that are very sweet, you won’t need to add sugar but if you are using standard commercial carrots, you may.

Carrot & Cheese Soup

Makes 6 servings

1/2 cup butter

1 pound small white carrots, trimmed, scrubbed and chopped

- Kosher salt

4 cups hot water

6 ounces Joe Matos St. George or similar cheese, grated

- Black pepper in a mill

3 tablespoons snipped chives, minced Italian parsley or minced cilantro

16 baguette slices, toasted

Set a medium saucepan over medium heat, add the butter and when it is melted, add the carrots. Stir to coat them in butter and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Season generously with salt and pour in the hot water.

Melt the butter in a heavy pot set over medium heat.

Increase the heat to high and when the water boils, reduce it to low and simmer the carrots gently until they are tender, about 10 to 12 minutes.

Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Use an immersion blender to purée the carrots, moving the blender through the carrots to be certain all are puréed.

Return the saucepan to medium-low heat, add the cheese and stir until it is melted. Taste, correct for salt, season generously with black pepper and remove from the heat.

Ladle into soup plates, sprinkle herbs on top and enjoy right away, with croutons alongside.

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Carrots make great dog treats. Only some dogs will eat them raw but I have never seen a dog decline a piece of carrot that has been poached in chicken stock. They are healthy, nutritious and won’t make your pup chubby.

Carrots Poached ?in Chicken Stock

Makes 1 pound

1 pound tiny carrots, wash and trimmed

1-2 cups chicken stock or broth

Put the carrots into a medium sauce pan and add enough stock or broth to cover them. If you’re short on liquid, add a bit of water.

Set over medium heat, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the carrots are tender, about 6 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Transfer to a container and keep in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Use the carrots as treats and spoon some of the broth over your pup’s meals.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.