In Season: Cauliflower a healthy, low-fat choice

Strains of cauliflower that were planted last summer are ready now in January, and early, mid-season and late varieties will be at their peak quality until April. This is lucky for us, as cauliflower is a member of the cabbage family, and cabbages are oh-so-good for us.

Cauliflower stems and florets are rich in vitamins and minerals stored for use in the flowers when they develop. I try to emulate the Chinese cooks who never throw away the thick stems, but peel them and then slice them crosswise into thin rounds to add to soups and especially stir-fries.

Just a half cup of cauliflower contains 40 percent of the daily requirement of vitamin C, about 10 percent of our need for vitamin B6 and folic acid, a gram and a half of dietary fiber, which feeds our gut microbiome that strengthens our immune system. And all the family members have cancer-fighting properties. But - that half cup has only 12 calories.

Recent breeding has given us, in addition to white cauliflower, heads of green, purple and orange. Romanesco is a lime-green variety available now with a beautiful geometric pattern that looks like interlocking spirals.

The colored cauliflowers are choice types, stronger in flavor and sweeter than either broccoli or white cauliflower. Orange Bouquet and Marmalade varieties produce creamy heads of orange curds that are rich in beta-carotene, the precursor to vitamin A.

The secret of great cauliflower is to find a fresh head within a day or two of its having been picked. Such a prize is most likely to be found at farmers markets, but most of these are shut down for the winter. Also look for fresh heads at our premium markets, such as Oliver's, Whole Foods, Pacific Market and the Nugget Markets in Sonoma and Glen Ellen.

Most store cauliflower, even organically grown heads, are trimmed of all their leaves and covered in perforated cellophane wrappers. You may see small browned areas on the creamy-white curds of some of these heads. Avoid them if you can. Look first for heads that are still wrapped in their inner leaves and not wrapped in plastic. These leaves keep light off the curds, which can discolor.

If the leaves have a fresh, bright look and midribs that are stiff and turgid, you can be sure the head is fresh. Check the cut end of the stem and make sure it's moist and freshly cut, not dried or discolored.

The curd should not be ricey. That's a condition where the curds develop a velvety appearance and resemble a pot of boiled rice. This means the head is aging and the elements of the curd are getting ready to separate and develop into flowers. When young and fresh, the curds are tightly packed.

Avoid heads if you see small green leaf tips emerging from the curd. This is the result of the plant reverting to vegetative growth rather than curd formation, usually because of exposure to warm temperatures. Overmaturity and exposure to sunlight may also cause a purple color to haze the surface of the curd. Avoid those heads. Overmaturity means a cabbagey flavor and bitterness.

Cauliflower is among the most versatile of our vegetables. It can be baked, steamed, roasted, stir-fried and sautéed. It can be pureed after cooking to make a creamy sauce for grilled fish. The only cooking caveat would be to avoid boiling it. It quickly turns to mush and becomes cabbagey.

While cooking colored cauliflowers, you'll see the purple/violet heads turn green. Green heads will remain green and the orange ones will keep their color.

Cauliflower's flavor is mild, with a hint of nuttiness. That makes it a partner for more intensely flavored ingredients like cheese, black pepper, cumin, garlic, lemon, mustard, nutmeg, anchovies and bacon. Butter, cream bread crumbs and wheat germ are old-fashioned but standard toppings.

I love the way the Greeks handle cauliflower. They separate the heads into little florets, then steam them until just tender and set them aside. They beat two egg whites until stiff, add a half cup of white wine and a half cup of flour, and beat all together to make a batter. The florets are coated with the batter and then go into a skillet with olive oil over medium heat and cooked until golden brown.

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Here's the Indian subcontinent's way of glorifying cauliflower. Of course, it's a symphony of spicy flavors. Serve it with slices of breast meat from a rotisserie chicken.

Spicy Roast Cauliflower

Makes 4 servings

1 cup diced onion

1 head fresh cauliflower, reduced to florets

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger

½ tablespoon grated lemon zest

¼ cup olive oil

½ tablespoon curry powder

½ tablespoon garam masala

½ tablespoon fennel seed

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

½ cup frozen garden peas

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Thaw the peas in a bowl of warm water.

Place all the ingredients except the peas and parsley in a bowl and toss to coat the florets.

Wipe a roasting pan or skillet with olive oil and place the floret mixture in it, covering the bottom of the pan evenly. Roast for 25-30 minutes, turning the mixture every 8-10 minutes so it browns evenly.

As the florets are finishing, drain and lightly steam the peas for a couple of minutes. Don't overcook.

Place the floret mixture in a serving bowl, add the peas and parsley and toss.

Jeff Cox is a Kenwood-based food and garden writer. Reach him at jeffcox@sonic.net