Seasonal Pantry: Give celery a chance by preparing it correctly

Why does celery get a bad rap? I constantly hear people say that they either don't like it or hate it. The one exception is during Thanksgiving, when it is deemed acceptable in turkey dressing.

I suspect the answer may have something to do with not understanding the plant itself. The outer stalks, especially if they are more deeply colored than the inner stalks, can be bitter and stringy. It's easy to deal with the strings: Simply use a small paring knife to pull them off.

The bitterness is easy to mitigate, too. When making a salad or using the celery raw, simply remove the outer stalks and reserve them for another use, in soups and stews, for example. The leaves can be quite bitter, too, and so use them judiciously if you find that to be the case.

Sometimes, organic celery is more bitter than so-called conventional celery, which is likely because less water has been used - celery, like many lettuces, turns bitter when grown without enough water. If you find organic celery, see if you can taste it. I've noticed in recent years that it has gotten better.

We've all been told how healthy celery is, and it's true. It contains a range of essential nutrients, including Vitamins A, B1, B2, K, calcium iron, phosphorus and potassium, along with plenty of fiber. It can reduce hunger, too. Many experts say four stalks a day will lower blood pressure, but it also contains a fair amount of sodium, which some people need to avoid.

How celery is prepared matters, too. To enjoy it raw, it is best cut into thin diagonal slices instead of the straight spears that are so common on crudité platters. You can easily test this yourself: The next time you are preparing celery, do a taste test. Texture and flavor are inseparable, especially if you have a sensitive palate.

A single way to get more celery into your diet is to cut it into thin diagonal slices, sauté in butter or olive oil until it is just tender, add a bit of salt and a squeeze of lemon juice and use it as a bed for sautéed fish, shellfish or chicken.

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Celery soup is delicious, elegant and easy to make.

It is helpful to have this recipe on hand when you find yourself with a lot of leftover celery, which happens when you buy a head of it because you need just a stalk or two.

Use any part of the celery - outer stalks, inner stalks and the heart - but do not use the leaves, as they will overpower celery's more subtle flavors.

Celery Soup with Creme Fraiche & Chives

Makes 3 to 4 servings as a first course

3 tablespoons butter

1 shallot, minced

- Kosher salt

12 ounces, approximately, trimmed celery stalks, cut into small dice

1 potato, peeled and cut into small dice

4 cups homemade chicken broth or mildly-flavored vegetable broth

1/2 lemon

- Black pepper in a mill

1/3 cup creme fraiche

2 tablespoons snipped chives

- Grated zest of ½ lemon

1/2 teaspoon fennel pollen, optional

Put the butter into a medium saucepan, set over medium-low heat, add the shallot and cook until soft and fragrant, about 7 minutes. Season lightly with salt.

Add the celery and the potato, stir and cook gently for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables begin to soften a bit; do not let them brown. Season lightly with salt.

Pour in the broth, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer very slowly until the celery and potatoes are quite tender, about 15 to 20 minutes or a bit longer. Squeeze in the lemon juice and add several turns of black pepper.

Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

Use an immersion blender to purée the soup, pass it through a sieve or strainer and return it to the saucepan. Set over low heat, add the creme fraiche, stir and heat through. Taste and correct for salt and pepper.

Ladle into soup plates and sprinkle with chives, lemon zest and fennel pollen, if using. Enjoy right away.

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If you can get San Daniele prosciutto, use it in this simple but fragrantly delicious salad; it is less gamy and a bit sweeter than other types.

Celery Salad with San Daniele Prosciutto, Capers & Dry Jack

Makes 4 to 6 servings

8-10 celery stalks, trimmed

- Kosher salt

4-6 very thin slices of prosciutto, preferably San Daniele, cut into 1/2-inch crosswise strips

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed

2-3 tablespoons olio nuovo, or other ultra-premium olive oil

- Black pepper in a mill

- Chunk of Vella Dry Jack cheese

Using a very sharp knife, cut the celery into 1/8-inch thick diagonal slices and put it into a wide shallow bowl. Season lightly with salt.

Add the prosciutto and capers and toss gently. Drizzle with olive oil and toss again. Season generously with black pepper.

Use a vegetable peeler to make curls of cheese, scatter them on top and enjoy right away.

Variation: Celery pairs beautifully with blue cheeses, and I find it especially delicious with Gorgonzola. Omit the dry Jack and add about 2 ounces of blue cheese, broken into small pieces, with the capers.

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This simple weeknight dish is light, bright, delicious and nutritious. If you can, use fresh sardines, which are sometimes available in local seafood markets; allow one per person. Canned sardines are quite good, too, and I find Tiny Tots brand has the best flavor and texture.

Gemelli with Celery, Leeks & Sardines

Makes 4 servings

- Kosher salt

12 ounces gemelli, strozzapreti or other medium-sized pasta

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 ounces pancetta, cut into small dice

2 leeks, white and pale green parts only, very thinly sliced

2 cups (about 1/2 pound) thinly sliced celery (see Note below)

3/4 cup dry white wine

- Black pepper in a mill

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

1 lemon

2 ounces grated dry Jack or similar cheese

3 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley

1 tin Tiny Tots sardines, drained

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to package directions.

Drain it thoroughly, put it in a warmed serving bowl, toss it with the olive oil, and keep it hot by covering it with a plate or a tea towel.

Meanwhile, sauté the pancetta in a medium sauté pan set over medium low heat, stirring frequently, until it loses its raw look, about 5 minutes.

Add the leeks and celery and sauté until the leeks are wilted, about 9 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper, add the wine and the thyme, cover the pan and simmer until the celery is just tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the lid and continue to cook until the liquid is nearly completely reduced.

Stir the juice of half of the lemon into the celery mixture, taste and correct the seasoning. Toss the mixture with the hot pasta, add the cheese and half the parsley and toss again.

Cut the remaining half lemon into wedges.

Arrange the lemon wedges and sardines on top of the pasta, sprinkle the remaining parsley over everything and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.