Pairings: Try Elysian Collection 2016 Merlot with a mac’n’cheese

Our Wine of the Week, Elysian Collection 2016 Merlot ($25), is a lush beauty, with deep fruit and well-mannered tannins for a wine this young. You'll notice juicy black plum, black raspberries and something resembling strawberries that have been dehydrated, which concentrates their flavors.

There's a bit of black currant, too, a fillip of milk chocolate that emerges just before a lovely acidic minerality signals that you are almost ready for another sip. You might, if you have a sensitive palate, notice a bit of blueberry, too.

These flavors are all organized around a core juiciness.

At the table, let this juiciness guide you: Enjoy it with a rare flatiron steak topped with blue cheese butter and served atop black chanterelles sautéed in butter.

The wine will also go well with gumbo, provided it doesn't have too much heat. It is also excellent with ribs, especially if they are slathered with blueberry barbecue sauce. Creamy polenta with braised Italian sausages, classic spaghetti and meatballs, meatloaf with roasted garlic-mushroom gravy and braised oxtails all make great companions.

The right macaroni and cheese is an excellent companion, too, and I think we could all use some comfort food right about now. The bacon in this version engages the wine beautifully and the tomatoes deepen the match.

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I don't know anyone who can resist good macaroni and cheese, even those whose busy mothers served them the Kraft shadow version of the real thing every night. Here, tomatoes contribute a lively, acidic element. Vegetarians can omit the pancetta, or replace it with minced and sautéed portobello mushrooms.

Macaroni and Cheese with Tomatoes, Bacon & Fontina

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 pound trennete or other medium tube pasta

8 ounces bacon

2 cups heavy cream

1 28-ounce can diced or crushed tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen brand

1 tablespoon bottled hot pepper sauce, such as Crystal or Tabasco

- Black pepper in a mill

1¼ pounds Monterey jack cheese, shredded or grated

12 ounces Italian fontina, shredded or grated

2 cups Panko bread crumbs, lightly toasted

Fill a large pot two-thirds full with water, add the 1 tablespoon kosher salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water boils, cook the pasta according to package directions until it is just al dente. Drain the pasta.

Meanwhile, set a medium skillet over medium heat and fry the bacon until it is just crisp; transfer it to absorbent paper to drain.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl, combine the cream, tomatoes and hot sauce. Season the mixture generously with black pepper. Fold in the cheeses, and when the pasta is cooked, add it to the mixture and mix gently but thoroughly.

Pour the pasta mixture into a large, ovenproof casserole. Season the bread crumbs with salt and pepper and spread them on top of the pasta. Cover the casserole tightly with a sheet of aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes.

Remove the aluminum foil and bake for 10 minutes more, until the bread crumbs are lightly toasted. Remove from the oven and let rest 10 minutes before serving.

Michele Anna Jordan hosts Mouthful, Smart Talk About Food, Wine & Farming, on KRCB FM on Sunday evenings at 6 p.m. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.