Cabernet was created by God. Pinot noir was made by the devil."
That's a telling quote from the late Andr?Tchelistcheff, the winemaker known for revolutionizing California cabernet sauvignon in the 1940s.
Tchelistcheff would have had reverence for our wine-of-the-week winner, the Jordan 2008 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $52.
Rob Davis, the winemaker behind the cabernet, recalls Tchelistcheff's sentiments well, having trained with him for nearly two decades.
"Of course, Tchelistcheff loved each (cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir), but clearly cabernet is a variety with a durable design, loose cluster, thick skin, small berry and packed with color and tannin that makes growing the grape and making the wine a bit less challenging and much more consistent from vintage to vintage than the noble pinot noir," Davis said.
Aside from being a less taxing varietal, cabernet makes for a very sensual wine, Davis said.
"I recall a woman that I met at Chateau Haut Brion commenting on the greatness of cabernet, where the wine caresses the lips, beguiles the nose and totally fills the mouth and leaves you with a memory that lasts for days, much like a long kiss," he said. "Now what's not to like about that?"
Of course, to make romance-infused cabernet, precise timing is key, Davis said.
"Probably the biggest challenge of crafting a notable cabernet is achieving physiological ripeness without succumbing to the lure of tannins that are out of sync with the fruit," he said. "It's like going to a concert where the brass section overwhelms the strings."
This is Davis' 37th harvest at Healdsburg's Jordan Vineyard & Winery.
"After the first introductory course (at U.C. Davis), I knew that I wanted to continue to explore more of the viticulture and enology classes, and when I needed to choose a major to graduate, the single greatest reason that led me to this wonderful industry is simple: The people," he said. "I don't think you could find so many curious, creative, and generous people anywhere else. Nothing is proprietary. We share everything."
Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 521-5310
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