Old vine zin with lamb ragu

Carol Shelton 2007 Karma Zin ($33), our Wine of the Week, is a zin lover's dream. This old-vine zinfandel, from Rue Vineyard fruit, offers layers of flavors and a mouth-filling, chewy richness.

Black fruit is woven through with sweet spices, especially allspice, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg and star anise, creating a gloriously tasty tapestry. Beneath these flavors is a generous foundation of chocolate-y flavors paired with suggestions of vanilla bean and cream. There's a bit of heat with each mouthful, too, which is expected with a wine that hovers just below 15 percent alcohol.

The chewiness of the tannins is a youthful characteristic, which will soften and lengthen as the wine ages.

When it comes to pairing the wine at the table, think rich, think plush, think hearty. It's a great wine with chili, especially Chili Colorado, as long as there's not too much heat. It's also quite good with venison, especially slow-cooked venison stews. Add some good old-fashioned garlic bread alongside and you'll further the match. Sausages, braised ribs, cioppino, lasagna and pastas with full-flavored cream sauces, like spaghetti with tomato-vodka sauce, are good choices, too. A red or black mole would be good with this wine, too, as long as the chiles are kept in check; too much heat could turn the wine bitter.

Vegetarians will want to think about meatless chili, beans, creamy polenta and oil-cured black olives, on pizza, in tapenade or in pasta sauce.

For today's recipe, I'm revisiting a favorite dish, lamb ragu, with just a bit of cocoa and cinnamon. Although you can use ground lamb in this dish, it is far better when you cut the meat yourself. It's not at all difficult, provided you have a good sharp knife.

Lamb Ragu with Pappardelle

Makes 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds boneless lamb, cut into ?-inch dice

-- Kosher salt

-- Black pepper in a mill

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 ounces pancetta, cut into ?-inch-inch dice

1 yellow onion, minced

2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch dice

2 celery stalks, cut into 1/8-inch dice

1? cups dry white wine

2 tablespoons double-concentrated tomato paste

2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa

? teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 cups duck, beef or chicken stock

1 thyme sprig

2 parsley sprigs

1 cup half-and-half

1 pound dried pappardelle, mezze-lasagne or fusilli col buco (long fusilli)

? cup heavy cream or creme fraiche

1 medium chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Vella Dry Jack.

Set a medium heavy pot -- cast iron is ideal -- over medium heat, add the lamb and cook without stirring for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir and continue to cook until the meat is evenly browned. Season with salt and pepper, cook 2 minutes more and transfer to a plate or bowl.

Return the pot to the heat, add the butter and olive oil and when the butter is melted, add the pancetta. Cook, stirring now and then, for 5 minutes, until the pancetta loses its raw look. Reduce the heat to low, add the onion, carrot and celery and saute until very soft and fragrant, about 15 to 17 minutes.

Do not let the vegetables brown.

Season with salt and return the lamb and all its drippings to the pot.

Increase the heat to high, add the wine and cook until it is nearly completely reduced. Lower the heat, stir in the tomato paste, cocoa and cinnamon, add the stock, thyme sprig and parsley sprigs.

Simmer very slowly for about 2? hours, until the meat is very tender and the liquid nearly completely reduced. As the ragu cooks, stir in a splash of half and half every now and then.

When the meat is completely tender, cover the pan, remove from the heat and let rest about 30 minutes.

Uncover and use a wide spoon to scoop off and discard the fat that collects on the surface of the ragu. Use tongs to remove and discard the herb sprigs.

While the ragu rests, fill a large pot two-thirds full with water, season generously with salt and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Cook the pasta according to package directions until just done, drain and do not rinse. Put the pasta into a wide shallow bowl and keep hot.

Working quickly, pour the cream or creme fraiche into a small saucepan, set over medium-low heat, stir and heat through.

Return the ragu to medium heat, stir in the hot cream or creme fraiche and heat through. Taste and correct for salt and pepper.

Spoon half the ragu onto the pasta and use two forks to gently lift the pasta in several places to distribute the ragu. Spoon the remaining the ragu over the pasta, grate cheese over the top and serve immediately, with the remaining cheese and a grater alongside.

Variation: Serve the ragu over creamy polenta instead of pasta.

Michele Anna Jordan hosts "Mouthful" each Sunday at 7 p.m. on KRCB 90.9 & 91.1 FM. E-mail Jordan at michele@micheleannajordan.com. You'll find her blog, "Eat This Now," at pantry. blogs.pressdemocrat.com/