Sonoma County board OKs Hop Kiln Winery expansion, with limits

The Sonoma County Board of Zoning Adjustments on Thursday approved a permit to expand operations at a Russian River Valley winery, but not before placing additional restrictions on its events business in response to criticism from community residents who worry the area has become a bottlenecked tourist mecca.

The five-member board approved the permit for Hop Kiln Winery on Westside Road to produce an additional 10,000 cases annually for a total of 30,000 cases, and build a new 15,550-square-foot wine production facility on the 79-acre property.

But the board went beyond its staff recommendations on limits for events and noise at Hop Kiln after hearing complaints from neighbors who contend the wine industry has moved too far away from its agricultural roots and moved too much into the tourism business.

The most notable limit was reducing a proposed 16 promotional events annually to four, as well as prohibiting weddings. The winery would be allowed to participate in eight industrywide event days. Any outdoor event would have to end at 5 p.m., and indoor events must end at ?9 p.m. Buses would be limited to no more than 12 seats.

The events permit would be reviewed after two years to gauge compliance by the winery, especially after a similar proposed expansion by Hop Kiln in 2012 was derailed after zoning officials complained of “continued violations and lack of responsible oversight.”

To assuage concerns about noise, the board required that the winemaking building be fully enclosed. In addition, the tasting room can serve no more than 15 percent incidental products, items that were not produced in conjunction with the winery, such as third-party olive oil or trinkets.

“It’s a start,” said Willie Lamberson, a board member appointed by Supervisor James Gore, who represents the area where the winery is located.

During the meeting, Lamberson was sympathetic to the concerns of opponents, who numbered nearly 100 in attendance, and he originally had proposed for all events to end by 5 p.m. and be prohibited on the front lawn of the property.

“You can have a dinner that starts at 3 and ends at 5,” Lamberson noted, when questioned on whether such a restriction would be cumbersome to the winery.

Board members did appear intent on clamping down more on nonindustry events, especially weddings, noting it is more related to the tourism business rather than the viticulture that drives the local economy.

“I totally support no weddings,” Don Bennett said. “The purpose of the wine industry is business. … The wine industry events and wine clubs are keeping the wine industry going and keeping them prosperous.”

Opponents said they felt they received some significant concessions given that they faced slim odds to stop any expansion, especially because Hop Kiln has been in operation since 1975 and is on the National Register of Historic Places, and because its new additions will still place it in the smaller category within the industry and the county.

“It’s moving in the right direction, reducing the number of events,” said Marc Bommersbach, a grape grower along Westside Road. “I think victory might be too strong (of a word), but it was encouraging.”

The winery is owned by Westside Grapes, a Seattle-based limited liability company that purchased the facility in 2004. The winery is under the umbrella of HKG Estate Wines, whose chief executive officer is David Di Loreto. Di Loreto did not appear at the hearing, instead sending consultant Jean Kapolchok to represent him.

In an interview, Kapolchok said she would have to talk with Di Loreto first before deciding whether the winery will appeal the decision to the Board of Supervisors. Hop Kiln scaled down its plan from its 2012 proposal, which called for as many as 60,000 cases in annual production, and this time did outreach with the community in an attempt to ease fears.

“My client wanted more production than what we proposed. We wanted 35,000 to 40,000, but because of the groundswell of opposition against that 2012 permit, we were trying to put the logic together at the balance,” she said.

The board recently has taken a tougher stance on winery expansions, rejecting a contentious winery proposal from celebrity chef Guy Fieri in January and last year halting all events at Bella Vineyards.

But Thursday’s meeting was just a precursor to what the board will face in the future, as there are proposals to build three new wineries on Westside Road alone.

During the debate, the board appeared reluctant to grant any sweeping rulings on the issue because a newly appointed steering committee has been charged with drafting clear definitions of winery events that could lead to new regulations. Napa County also is grappling with the issue, creating an advisory committee to review the county’s winery and conservation regulations with a report due back by August.

You can reach Staff Writer Bill Swindell at 521-5223 or ?bill.swindell@pressdemocrat.com. ?On Twitter @BillSwindell.