Two remote Sonoma Coast wineries offer delicious wines, stunning views

Have guests hitting town this summer? Give them an unforgettable Sonoma County experience by visiting wineries on the north coast.

The 25-mile distance that separate Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery and Annapolis Winery encompasses some of the most stunning coastal vistas in California and a wide range of activities that include visiting historic Fort Ross, hiking at Salt Point State Park, clifftop whale watching, and some mighty fine dining. This jaunt makes for an exciting, jam-packed day, and also works as an excellent overnight.

The action starts at Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery. Soon after passing Russian Gulch State Beach on Highway 1, turn right turn onto Meyers Grade Road to begin a steep climb offering panoramic views of the coast far below. Three miles in, the winery beckons from a ridgetop.

“We came across this land by accident,” recalls co-owner Lester Schwartz. “We were traveling up the coast, Highway 1 had some problems, and we were forced to detour. It was one of those absolutely halcyon days - the car windows were open, the air was filled with the beautiful perfume of trees. We were enchanted.”

Lester and Linda Schwartz met in the 1960s while students at South Africa’s University of Cape Town. They married in 1967 and moved to the Bay Area in the mid-1970s; Lester was a San Francisco attorney and Linda worked with nonprofit arts organizations. Eventually they began seeking coastal property with the aim of growing grapes.

“Wine had been an interest of ours for years,” Lester said. “Even as students we drank more wine than beer. I came from a farming family, and I had an uncle with a famous vineyard. As a boy I already loved the smell of fermentation.”

In 1988, the Schwartzes purchased a section of virgin forest and grasslands on Meyers Grade Road, but were soon warned by a visiting industry expert that “we’d never be able to grow grapes here because it’s too cool.”

Undiscouraged, the couple began experimenting with cool-climate grapes such as pinot noir and chardonnay, planting varietals in different soil blocks to see which grew best in various locations.

It turned out that there was grape-growing warmth aplenty on their property. It’s so high above sea level that it usually sits above the fog line, basking in hotter and longer periods of sunlight than the foggy bluffs below. When the sun sets, though, vineyard temperatures plummet.

These conditions create such a unique ecosystem that, in 2012, this rugged region was awarded status as the Fort Ross-Seaview American Viticultural Area (within the larger Sonoma Coast AVA). Grapes grown here are planted from 920 to 1800 feet above sea level.

Today the winery, located at 15725 Meyers Grade Road in Jenner, specializes in three varietals: pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinotage, a delectable South African varietal that’s a cross between pinot noir and cinsaut.

Visitors can stroll the grounds, savor the views, and enjoy a flight of wines for $25. The tasting room is open 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. every day, except major holidays.

Along a 50-minute drive north to Annapolis Winery, travelers will find gorgeous scenery, with plenty of pullover spots to enjoy a hike and a picnic lunch (or a delicious lunch at Timber Cove Inn’s Coast Kitchen or the Black Point Grill at Sea Ranch).

Continue up the highway to Sea Ranch, turning right onto Annapolis Road. For eight miles travelers will wend through redwood forests and pass through the tiny hamlet of Annapolis, until turning left onto Soda Springs Road. The winery - resembling a flower-bedecked fairy tale cottage painted by Thomas Kinkade - is just ahead (visitors might want to stop across the street at the unmanned, donations-only farm stand run by the Starcross monastic community).

Annapolis Winery, located at 26055 Soda Springs Road, was born back in 1978, when San Anselmo residents Basil and Barbara Scalabrini decided to fulfill a long-held dream.

In their 40s and only halfway through their teaching careers, they retired, sold their house, moved to the Annapolis property and planted a vineyard.

“Dad always had an interest in vineyards and wineries,” said his son, Aron. “I remember him making wine in the basement when I was a little kid.”

In the vineyard’s early stages, Aron’s parents held local school jobs, with Barbara teaching K-8 and Basil serving as a Point Arena principal. Initial grape crops were sold to wine producers, but around 1986 Basil made his first wine, a cabernet sauvignon.

“We didn’t have a winery at that point,” Aron said, “so Dad had a couple of barrels in a redwood grove. That’s how it started. Then in 1988 they built the winery.”

Meanwhile, Aron had left home for college and other pursuits. He didn’t have much interest in wine, but he visited his parents regularly, helping with harvest and other tasks.

“Eventually the idea of working here grew on me,” said. “I began to appreciate country life.”

He, who studied enology at UC Davis, moved to Annapolis in 2005 and started working full time at the winery.

Basil passed away in 2011, and today Aron and Barbara are partners in the winery. Aron and Sophie Dendy are winemakers, interfering as little as possible with the juice.

Annapolis Winery, which belongs to the Sonoma Coast AVA, sits at a 1000-foot elevation.

“We’re about 4 miles to the ocean if you’re a bird,” Aron said. “The northern part of the Sonoma Coast AVA is characterized by acidic soils, much different than the southern part of the AVA. We get the coastal influence, more sun and less foggy days. It’s cool in the summer, but sunny.”

The winery sits on 100 acres, with 14.5 acres planted to grapes (they also purchase some grapes). It produces 1,000 cases a year, and the only place to obtain the wine is at its tasting room.

Despite being way off the beaten track, the wines have such an enthusiastic following that they sell out. The wines produced here are Barbera, Barbera Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux Style Blend), Zinfandel, Zinfandel Port, Pinot Noir and Syrah.

Small, casual and beautiful in its simplicity, Annapolis Winery is dog- and family-friendly. Visitors will find lovely handcrafted items for sale in the tasting room, where they can also sample three or four wines for a retro $5 fee. It’s open daily, noon to 5 p.m.