Gaye LeBaron: Four-ton potato has roots that go back to Luther Burbank
Would it surprise you to hear that Luther Burbank invented the Tater Tot?
Of course it would. The mild-mannered gardener who accomplished what seemed like hybridizing miracles in his Santa Rosa garden a century and more ago never saw a Tater Tot, never ate one, never even heard of one. But, as they say on all the cop shows now, “his DNA is in there somewhere.”
You will undoubtedly hear all about it this week when the Great Big Idaho Potato Truck comes to Sonoma County.
This 72-foot motorized behemoth, carrying a 28-foot, 8,000-pound fiberglass potato, has been touring the country since 2012, celebrating the centennial of Idaho’s Potato Commission.
It will be parked beside Luther Burbank Home & Gardens for public viewing from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Wednesday. It then will head to Sebastopol for a viewing event Thursday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. in front of the West County Museum.
Santa Rosa’s Luther Burbank Home & Gardens docents have been readying the gardens for company all month and have potato-related activities planned - mostly for kids.
They have even borrowed a boxful of Mr. Potato Head toys from Sonoma State’s life science department where they are used as hands-on learning tools to teach genetics. Who knew? Luther as Mr. Potato Head? Hey, whatever works.
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It’s a little surprising that the Big Idaho Potato Truck (emphasis on “Big”), now in its eighth touring season, hasn’t found its way to Luther’s “chosen spot” before this year, considering all he has meant, botanically and historically, to Idaho’s pride and joy.
Of course, LB didn’t invent the potato either, but the potato that Idaho celebrates - arguably the most popular vegetable in the USA - bears his imprint - and his name.
It is the one that feeds many millions, whether baked, French-fried or “tatered,” and it is a variation of the potato young Luther “discovered” in his New England market garden in 1872.
It is also a direct descendant of the tuber which, three years later, helped pay for the curious young gardener’s train ticket to Santa Rosa.
In his early 20s, he was curious enough about the nature of things to recognize the value of a rare seed ball forming on an Early Rose potato plant in his tiny market garden in Lunenburg, Massachusetts. And he was smart enough to know that the Early Rose never (well, almost never) sets seed. He had never seen such a rarity, and he never would again. For a time, in later years, he offered a reward for anyone who would bring him another. He never had to pay up.
The Lunenburg seed ball had 23 seeds. Luther planted them and, as his biographers report, got 21 “failures” and kept two, which he fostered for two seasons before choosing the better one. It proved to be very, very good, doubling the potatoes-per-plant of its Early Rose parent and being acclaimed as an excellent “baker.”
It also became Burbank’s ticket to California and greater glory. He sold his very promising new potato to a seedsman named Gregory who had tried one crop and pronounced it “the best potato I ever ate.”
Two life-changing things came of the sale. First, he paid Luther $150 (which, in today’s currency, would be somewhere around a paltry $3,000) but it would bring his net worth to $600-plus, enough for a transcontinental railroad ticket to Santa Rosa. Second, Gregory named his new product the “Burbank seedling,” a name, later with the descriptive “russet” added, that would carry the “Plant Wizard” legend much further.
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Sonoma County was already “potato country” when young Luther arrived with several of his seedlings tucked in his duffel. He had a brother and two half brothers who were already here, and he knew their stories of the rich soil and temperate climate and was eager to “get growin.”
He undoubtedly learned about the “Bodega Red” potato soon after he arrived. His half brothers were farming near Tomales, and the neighboring Sonoma Coast had been growing, marketing and shipping potatoes since the Gold Rush made a boomtown of San Francisco. According to legend, hungry forty-niners would trade a lump of gold for a ‘tater.
Speculation remains about who planted the first Bodega Reds. Plant scientists now know that its origins were in Peru, which points to a sea captain named Stephen Smith, grantee of the Bodega Rancho, who brought his bride, Manuela Torres, from Peru. Furthermore, Smith was known to allow the early American settlers (known as “squatters”) to farm his land while waiting for the title to clear the federal courts, as prescribed by the treaty that ended the Mexican War in 1848.
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