Seasonal pantry: Short, delicious apricot season arrives in Sonoma County

Late spring and early summer crops are coming on so fast and strong that you risk whiplash walking through one of our farmers markets these days. There were cherries about four weeks ago, and two weeks ago a couple of vendors had apricots and nectarines. All in April.

Cherries will continue for a while. The first of Sonoma County's small crop is still to come, and there will be Queen Anne and other cherries for weeks after Bings are done.

With apricots, it is a different story. The time to indulge is now, as they are one of the most ephemeral crops in the world.

Their season is typically short, only about three weeks. It usually starts in California around the beginning of June and then drops off suddenly.

With this year's early ripening, apricots could be gone by the end of May or early June.

Last year's crop was a short but delicious one, with apricots making what may have been summer's best shrub. The apricots were so sweet that the shrub needed no added sugar at all.

Over the years, Seasonal Pantry has featured apricots many times, with savory dishes such as chicken kababs with apricots and bacon; bread salad with apricots; couscous with apricots, pistachios, chicken and harissa; beer-braised rabbit with apricots and green olives; and grilled apricots with whipped chevre and sweets like apricot galettes.

You'll find those recipes and more at “Eat This Now” and pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.

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This elegant dish is perfect for a special occasion or simply for a weekend dinner when there's no work-week pressure.

It doesn't take that long to make, but if you're not comfortable making risotto it can seem daunting at first. After a few times, you'll get the hang of it and will no longer need to reserve it for weekends.

Serve it with wilted spinach alongside and a simple green salad after the main course.

Oven-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Apricot Risotto

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 pork tenderloins, about 1 pound each

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

½ cup apricot conserve or apricot jam

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

5 garlic cloves, minced

- Juice of 1 lemon

1 cup dry white wine

6 ripe apricots, halved and pitted

4 cups homemade chicken stock

3-4 slices of bacon

2 tablespoons butter

1 yellow onion, cut into small dice

1½ cups Italian rice, preferably Vialone Nano or Carnaroli

½ cup minced dried California apricots

3 ounces (3/4 cup) grated Estero Gold, Vella Dry Jack or similar cheese

2 tablespoons fresh snipped chives or chopped Italian parsley

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into a heavy pan--an All Clad saucier is ideal--set over medium heat, season the pork all over with salt and pepper and brown them on all sides; it will take about 4 minutes.

While the pork browns, put the conserve or jam into a small bowl, add half the cardamom, half the garlic, half the lemon juice and a splash of the wine and stir until smooth.

When the pork is browned, use tongs to transfer the pork to a roasting rack or roasting pand and arrange the apricots, cut side up around it.

Brush the pork and apricots all over with the conserve or jam mixture and set and set on the middle rack of the oven. Cook until the pork reaches an internal temperature of 145 degrees, about 15 minutes; brush a few times times during cooking.

When the pork is done, remove it from the oven, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let rest for about 10 minutes before slicing.

Meanwhile, return the heavy pan to medium heat, add the bacon, cook until it is crisp, and transfer it to absorbent paper to drain.

Pour the stock into a saucepan, add 2 cups of water, heat and keep warm over a low burner.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat, add the butter to the pan and, when it is melted, add the onion and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 12 minutes; do not let it brown.

Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon until each grain turns milky white, about 3 minutes. Season wtih salt, add the remaining wine and simmer until it is nearly completely absorbed; stir all the while.

Begin adding stock to the rice, ½ cup at a time, and stirring between additions until the liquid is absorbed.

After the third addition of stock, stir in the dried apricots and continue adding stock and stirring until the rice is just tender, about 18 to 22 minutes.

Before the final addition of stock, add the remaining cardamom, garlic and lemon juice and the cheese. Taste, correct for salt, season with pepper and stir in the rest of the stock. Remove from the heat.

Working quickly, cut the pork into ¼-inch thick slices.

Divide the risotto among individual soup plates or wide pasta bowls and arrange pork alongside. Add apricots, sprinkle with chives and enjoy right away.

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A shrub is simply a vinegar-based drink.

For more recipes about this traditional beverage, visit “Eat This Now” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.

Apricot Cardamom Shrub

Makes about 1 quart

8-10 cups sliced ripe apricots, from about 4 pounds

4-5 cardamon pods, crushed open

1 tablespoon white peppercorns, optional

4 cups organic apple cider vinegar, plus more as needed

Put the apricots into a large glass jar (2 quarts minimum) or crock, add the cardamom and, if using, the peppercorns and stir, crushing the fruit a bit as you do.

Fill the jar or crock with vinegar and let sit in the refrigerator or a cool, dark cupboard for at least 3 days and as long as two weeks. Stir it now and then as it rests.

Line a large strainer or colander with cheesecloth, set it over a deep bowl or crock and pour the mixture into it.

Let it drain, stirring it now and then, for 30 to 60 minutes, until no more liquid drains from the fruit.

Pour the shrub into clean glass bottles, add a closure--a pour spout is ideal--and refrigerate. Use the solids to make conserve or discard them.

The shrub will keep for many weeks. After a few days, you'll likely notice more solids in the bottom of the jars.

You can decant the shrub into clean jars if you like or simply discard the last bit if it bothers you.

Enjoy over ice with sparkling water, sparkling wine or still white wine.

Michele Anna Jordan is author of the new “Good Cook's” series. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com and visit her blog at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.