Thirst for IPAs driving growth of California’s craft beer industry

SACRAMENTO - As brewers across the state assembled this week for the second annual California Craft Beer Summit, one thing is clear: There seems to be no slowing the growth of the hoppy India pale ales, no matter how far that definition is stretched.

The statistics back up what is evident to any beer lover around the taprooms and breweries of Sonoma County, especially to fans of the aromatic and bitter West Coast IPA style that has been embraced by the nation and is now going international with forays by Lagunitas Brewing Co. in Petaluma and Stone Brewing Co. of Escondido.

By the end of last year, one out of four craft beers sold in the United States was an IPA, roughly double its market share from 2011, according to supermarket sales figures tracked by market research firm IRI.

The craft beer industry has been largely defined in recent years by the IPA, said Bart Watson, chief economist of the Brewers Association, the trade group that represents the craft beer industry. The style is the predominant one in Sonoma County, home to stalwarts such as Lagunitas’ IPA and Racer 5 by Cloverdale’s Bear Republic Brewing Co. to younger upstarts such as Heroine IPA by 101 North Brewing Co. in Petaluma.

The popularity of IPA is the result of its flavor, Watson said Friday during a summit session at the Sacramento Convention Center.

“That was the way you were demonstrating you were drinking craft; the most hoppiest, bitterest thing you can find. The segment has evolved since then,” Watson said during a summit session held at the Sacramento Convention Center.

As its growth has continued, the IPA segment has diversified to include a wide range of beers, from low-alcohol sessions to more fruity inspired beers that have driven growth at Ballast Point Brewing Co. in San Diego, which has added both pineapple and grapefruit flavors to its flagship Sculpin IPA and watermelon to its double IPA. The effort has pushed Ballast Point six-packs into a much higher price range that can sell for as much as $15.

“It’s such a broad category,” said David Walker, co-founder of Firestone Walker Brewing Co. in Paso Robles.

Indeed, the fastest-growing IPA segment has been the fruit/vegetable/spiced IPAs, which saw a 5.8 percent growth in dollar sales at supermarkets over the past 12 months, according to IRI.

Consumers’ thirst for IPA and other craft beers is driving the industry’s expansion in California. More than 50 breweries have opened in the last six months in California, now home to more than 700 breweries, according to the California Craft Brewers Association, which sponsored the summit.

Crooked Goat Brewing, which recently opened in The Barlow complex in Sebastopol, centered on its Ibex IPA. But it also offers a blood orange double IPA, a grapefruit Ibex and a tangerine-infused session IPA.

Regional distinctions have developed, such as the New England-style IPA that has a cloudier look and a creamier feel. The Alchemist in Stowe, Vermont, has popularized the style with its Heady Topper double IPA, which has become one of the most highly regarded beers in the country.

Some larger breweries have tried to capitalize on the trend, labeling a beer as an IPA because it has a hop style, said Vinnie Cilurzo, co-owner and brewmaster at Russian River Brewing Co., the Santa Rosa brewery renowned for its Pliny the Elder double IPA and Pliny the Younger triple IPA.

“I think there are a lot of breweries pushing the boundary of what an IPA is,” he said. “Some of these (sales) numbers could be embellished. ... I‘ve had a lot of IPAs that are like, ‘That’s not an IPA.’?”

Russian River will probably not make a New England-style IPA, Cilurzo said, keeping its IPAs based on a more traditional style. Any new IPA versions will be based on subtle changes using new and different malt and hops. For instance, the brewery was an early adopter of the mosaic hop, which was released in 2012 and has a more tropical flavor and has since become popular in the marketplace.

“The most interesting (hops) are still in the experimental stage,” he said. “There is some stuff in the pipeline we are seeing.”