Wine of the week: Orpheus winemaker had unusual road to his craft

Each bottling of wine is a time capsule of sorts.

So says Marc Krafft, winemaker and chief operating officer of Orpheus Wines with its tasting room in Kenwood.

Krafft is behind our wine-of-the-week winner – the Orpheus, 2013 Nelson Vineyards, Mendocino Viognier at $20.

'One of the glories of wine is how each one can be a time capsule for a year,' Krafft said.

'The hot spells and dry spells, early showers or late showers, morning fog and frost all combine their influence on the grapes and their natural flora to produce a unique wine every year. We dance with nature in a partnership of trust.'

The viognier is vibrant with aromas and flavors of brioche, peach, honeysuckle and lemon. It's a gorgeous take on viognier.

It makes sense the bottling is unique when you hear Krafft's unusual back story.

'I became enamored with winemaking before I actually became enamored with wine,' Krafft said. 'I studied biology, microbiology, and dance at the University of Washington. While nearing the end of my formal education I came to the conclusion that I didn't want to do any of these things as a profession. 'So I took a sabbatical to Europe.'

On a train from Amsterdam to Paris, Krafft met an apprentice winemaker traveling to Bordeaux for harvest in August of 2001.

After talking with him, Krafft was determined to be a winemaker.

'A profession that is both art and science seemed the perfect job for a dancing biologist,' he said.

Krafft supplemented his education at Napa Valley College in winemaking and Sonoma State University in wine business management, finishing his studies in 2005.

'My previous years as a hospital corpsman in the U.S. Navy have served me well in the wine industry, as I often pull in 23-hour days processing grapes and making wine,' Krafft joked.

As for crafting wine, he said he likes to make it with a light touch.

'What I like best about this viognier style is the understated winemaker's hand,' Krafft said. 'My personal winemaking style is to show off the fruit — not the barrel or other winemaking additives that detract from the simple beauty that nature provides for us,' he said.

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.

Wine of the Week: Scouting for the tastiest whites

Wine writer Peg Melnik had a tasting this week of whites and the flight included sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and viognier. While there were some notable wines in the mix, our wine-of-the-week winner is the Orpheus, 2013 Nelson Vineyards, Mendocino Viognier at $20. It's a gorgeous take on the varietal.

TOP PICK

Orpheus, 2013 Nelson Vineyards, Mendocino Viognier, 13.7 percent alcohol, $20. ★★★★ A vibrant viognier with aromas and flavors of brioche, peach, honeysuckle and lemon. Layered and lovely. A knockout.

Other impressive wines:

Cliff Lede, 2013 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, 14.7 percent, $25. ★★★★ A grassy sauvignon blanc with bright grapefruit and lime in the mix. Great minerality. Refreshing. Top-rate.

Marimar Estate, 2011 Don Miguel Vineyard, Bonita's Hill, Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 13.5 percent, $43. ★★★1⁄2 A lush chardonnay with notes of pear, lemon and creme brulee. Rich, yet strikes a nice balance. Nice length.

FEL, 2013 Anderson Valley Pinot Gris, 14.2 percent, $25. ★★★★ An aromatic pinot gris with a lush texture. Notes of peach, honey, pear and quince. Striking. This will turn heads.

Graziano, 2012 Mendocino County Chenin Blanc, 13.5 percent, $11. ★★★★ A tasty chenin blanc with notes of tropical fruits and mineral. Good acidity. Layered flavors. Crisp finish. Quite tasty.