Pairing: Pinot grigio with Asian noodle salad

A sense of place shines through our Wine of the Week, Swanson Vineyards 2013 Sonoma Mountain Pinot Grigio ($21), suggesting cool bright spring mornings above the fog bank. The wine is a fine California expression of this varietal. The aromas are all about citrus blossoms, punctuated by hints of Bartlett pear. The wine also blossoms with petrichor, that earthy scent of rain after a long dry spell. It’s the main quality that makes this wine so enchanting.

When the wine is well-chilled, as it should be, it splashes over the palate, all minerally and evocative of slick cement and cool rain drops. This quality, a pleasing austerity, a flint-like flourish, can guide you towards the finest pairings.

What best mirrors this quality is, of course, seafood, especially oysters on the half-shell, a match made in heaven. Clams, too, pair beautifully with this lovely pinot grigio. Clams Vongole is a thrilling partner.

Citrus-infused dishes are good options, too; scallops and pasta in a light lemon cream sauce is a great match. Caesar Salad Pasta, which you’ll find at Eat This Now, at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com, flatters and is flattered by this wine.

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For today’s recipe, I’m inspired by the cool rice vermicelli salads of Vietnam known as bün, which are refreshing, delicious and easy to prepare at home, especially if you have an herb garden. But even without your own herbs, the dish is easy to make.

Vietnamese-Inspired Noodle Salad

Serves 4

5 large garlic cloves, minced

1 serrano, minced

4 tablespoons freshly grated ginger

3 tablespoons sugar

4-5 tablespoons fish sauce

3-4 tablespoons fresh lime juice

8 ounces thin rice noodles (rice vermicelli)

- Hot water

4 cups lettuce or Napa cabbage, cut into very thin crosswise ribbons

1 cup sprouts of choice or pea shoots

4-5 scallions, trimmed and cut into very thin diagonal slices

½ cup julienned cucumber

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves

¼ cup very small fresh spearmint leaves

¼ cup very small Thai basil leaves, optional (use only when in season)

- Meat or seafood of choice, optional (see Note below)

½ cup crushed dry-roasted peanuts

Put the garlic, serrano, ginger, sugar, fish sauce and lime juice into a bowl and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Taste and correct for balance; cover and set aside for at least an hour and as long as several hours.

Shortly before serving, put the noodles into a medium bowl, cover with hot water and set aside until softened, about 15 minutes; drain thoroughly.

Meanwhile, put the lettuce or cabbage, sprouts or pea shoot, scallions, cucumber, cilantro, mint and basil into a large bowl and toss together gently. Divide about two-thirds of the mixture among four large bowls and top with noodles. Scatter the remaining greens on top.

Add meat or seafood, if using, scatter peanuts on top and drizzle dressing on top, dividing it as evenly as possible.

Serve right away.

Note: If you like, add 1 pound medium to large sautéed shrimp; rare beef, sliced thin; leftover barbecued pork or sautéed squid to the salad before adding the dressing.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 19 books to date, including the new “More Than Meatballs.” Email Jordan at catsmilk@sonic.net. You’ll find her blog, “Eat This Now,” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.