Getaways: Cruising Oregon’s rivers

What do the Wild West gunslinger Doc Holliday, wealthy San Francisco socialite Alma Spreckels, Washington State’s eccentric art collector Sam Hill and World War II’s shipyard pioneer Wilma the Welder have in common?

Each plays a colorful role on a week-long cruise on the Columbia and Snake rivers flowing between Oregon, Washington and Idaho. Inaugurated in September 2013, the cruise unfolds aboard the beautifully refurbished, 88-passenger SS Legacy, a replica coastal steamer owned by Seattle-based Un-Cruise Adventures.

Think of it as a magical history tour, where the magic comes to life by means of steamboat-era characters. Dressed from head to toe in period costumes, they appear without warning at appropriate points along the river. The Legacy’s cast of characters includes the ship’s entertainment staff as well as occasional shore greeters who convincingly tell first-person tales of bygone days.

Un-Cruise downplays the explorers Lewis and Clark, the most well known Columbia and Snake River characters. Their grueling 1805-06 expedition in search of a water route to the Pacific is typically the prime subject of cruise lines in these waters. No doubt, the change of focus is intentional, the Un-Cruise way of venturing off the beaten path.

During the river cruise, Legacy’s time travelers visit museums, cultural centers and historic sites, all shedding light on a different aspect of local history. Each of three seven-night adventure covers nearly 1,000 miles while sailing round-trip from Portland.

To kick off our October cruise, my husband and I stayed at Portland’s historic Heathman Hotel. Built in 1927 and returned to its former grandeur in 1984, the Heathman has played host to the rich and famous for nearly a century. A doorman clad in a red and gold British Beefeater uniform greeted us upon arrival and welcomed us to the richly polished wood-walled lobby.

Moving from the Heathman to the Legacy was a smooth transition, within walking distance. The riverboat is compact and her draft shallow enough to dock on the Willamette River in the heart of downtown Portland.

At the pier, we were introduced to a cast of characters we would soon recognize by their costumes. A glass of bubbly and evening hors d’oeuvres preceded a three-course dinner in the Victorian dining room. Everyone was tucked into bed early, as Captain Jill Russell traveled full steam ahead most nights and docked early for morning excursions.

Having passed through the first locks at Bonneville Dam at dawn the following day, Legacy tied up within view of the Bridge of the Gods, roughly 40 miles east of Portland. Buses waited ashore for passengers going on the day’s included trip to Multnomah Falls, one of 35 waterfalls in as many miles. Plunging 620 feet, it is the nation’s second highest year-round waterfall and Oregon’s number one natural attraction.

The third day proved ideal for taking advantage of the complimentary massage offered to every passenger. While others attended a geology talk or joined a poker tournament in the Pesky Barnacle Saloon, we lounged in one of two hot tubs on the upper deck, watching mile-long freight trains chugging along the Oregon and Washington river banks.

Barges laden with wheat cruised downriver. We had left the fertile Columbia River Gorge and entered golden, treeless Palouse wheat country.

By day four, Legacy had turned from the Columbia to the Snake River, been raised 740 feet by eight locks and was docked in Clarkston, Wash. At 465 river miles from the Pacific Ocean, Clarkston and neighboring Lewiston, Idaho, are the West’s most inland seaports. They are also the gateways to Hells Canyon.

North America’s deepest canyon, Hells Canyon is a scenic, largely uninhabited stretch of the Snake. The only way to reach it is by boat, in our case, a jet boat.

“There’s usually a lot of critters out there - bighorn sheep, deer, eagles, otters, maybe a black bear,” we were told. “Every day’s a little different.” Eric, our jet boat driver, encouraged us to be on the lookout for wildlife.

On the 51-mile, one-way ride, we spotted a bald eagle, bighorns grazing on the ridgeline and a beaver dam.

Centuries ago, the Nez Perce carved petroglyphs in flat rocks along these shores, and Eric pulled in close for photos. At the highest, narrowest point of our journey, he pointed out the eerie remains of a copper mine abandoned in 1909.

Turning downriver, the Legacy retraced her route to Walla Walla, where we returned to the 21st century by sampling chardonnay and cabernet at Dunham Cellars, an eclectic winery housed in a World War II airplane hangar.

At Fort Walla Walla Museum, a life-size diorama brought to life the meeting of Lewis and Clark with Chief Yellepit of the Walla Walla tribe. Another full-size display depicted a 33-mule team working the wheat fields. The museum also featured a living history settlement created from authentic pioneer cabins, a schoolhouse, barber and blacksmith shop. Docents in authentic costumes were on hand, relating tales of hardy settlers.

The local sheriff, gambler Doc Holliday (famous for his era rather than this particular spot) and town floozies warmly welcomed passengers to The Dalles (rhymes with pals). Looking at the women’s lacy parasols and men’s shotguns, it was easy to imagine being a steamboat traveler back in the day.

All week, Sam Hill wandered about Legacy, dressed to the nines. Who was he?

The real Sam Hill, a wealthy entrepreneur, had Maryhill estate built in 1914, intending it to be his residence. Instead, the mansion overlooking the Columbia became an art museum showcasing his personal collection as well as art donated by sugar heiress, Alma Spreckles of San Francisco.

The room of Rodin sculptures alone is worth the visit. You’ll see Native American beadwork, baskets and furniture belonging to Hill’s friend, Queen Marie of Romania. The top floor is devoted to 1940s Parisian fashion dolls, acquired by Spreckles.

Near the end of our journey, we reached the end of the Columbia River, the most treacherous river mouth on the Pacific. The Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria explains in detail why this area is known as the graveyard of the Pacific. This fascinating museum, again with lifelike replicas, focuses on river history from steamboats to Astoria’s once abundant salmon canneries.

Next, we visited the historic site of Lewis and Clark’s Fort Clatsop. While enduring the cold, damp winter, it’s said the expedition team survived largely on a diet of elk. Back on board Legacy and feeling warm and cozy, we celebrated our final dinner.

No elk here. We dined on a choice of seared king salmon, herb roasted beef tenderloin or wild mushroom pie. Wine (usually from Oregon or Washington) flowed freely. It’s complimentary throughout the cruise as are cocktails and draft beer.

The riverboat left Astoria after dinner, cruising upriver to Portland for our morning disembarkation. I’m sure I spotted Wilma the Welder from the Kaiser Shipyards among the crew lined up to wish us goodbye as we stepped ashore. No customs. No searching for our luggage. Just heartfelt hugs and handshakes from the captain and crew.