Pairings: Bright chardonnay complements curry

Our Wine of the Week, Alamos 2015 Mendoza, Argentina, Chardonnay ($13) is bright and sassy, with a basketful of fruit - especially Asian pear, Bartlett pear, Granny Smith apple, and ripe pineapple.

It is interlaced with the spices we think of in the fall, allspice, anise, clove, mace, and nutmeg, with little notes of vanilla, caramel, and butter rising and falling as the crisp acidity keeps things fresh on the palate. It is lush and mouth-filling, with a pleasing silkiness.

This wine is an excellent fall companion, ideal with such seasonal foods as winter squashes and pears as well as the last of the year’s fresh corn, carrots, and golden beets.

At the table, the wine is lovely with risotto, especially with pumpkin, carrot, corn, or classic Milanese risotto with saffron.

It’s excellent with rock ?shrimp and lobster, pairs well with pork loin and tenderloin, and will flatter a simple roasted chicken, especially if you baste ?it with butter and cider as it cooks.

Creamy polenta is a great match and you’ll enjoy the wine with sweet potato soup, corn and smoked salmon chowder, apple chowder, and creamy clam chowder.

Coconut, especially fresh coconut and unsweetened coconut milk, go nicely, too, and with the wine’s threads of dark spice, certain curries make an excellent match, provided there is not too much heat.

Winter Squash ?in Green Curry with Spinach

Serves 4 to 6

1 small winter squash, about 2 pounds

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 large shallots, minced

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger

1 serrano pepper

- Kosher salt

2/3 cup cup basil leaves, thinly sliced

1 can (14 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk

2 teaspoons sugar

1 pound fresh spinach, stems discarded

1/2 lemon

- Steamed Rice, hot

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Using a large, sharp knife, cut the squash in half and scoop out and discard the seeds. Cut each half into large chunks and peel each chunk. Cut the peeled chunks into 2 inch pieces. You should have about 6 cups. Toss the squash with olive oil, put it on a baking sheet in a single layer, and bake for 25 minutes, until it is almost tender.

Meanwhile, using a mortar and pestle or a food processor, combine the shallots, garlic, ginger, serrano pepper, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and 1/4 cup of the basil and grind or process into a paste. Add 1/4 cup water and continue to grind or process until the paste is quite smooth. Set aside.

Put the coconut milk into a measuring cup and mix it using a whisk or fork until it is smooth. Pour 1/2 cup into a medium saucepan, set it over medium heat, and bring to a boil. Simmer, stirring frequently, until it thickens and becomes fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in the basil mixture and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in the remaining coconut milk, 1/2 cup water, and the sugar. Add the cooked squash, season with salt, cover, and simmer very slowly until the squash is completely tender when pierced with a fork or bamboo skewer, about 15 minutes.

While the squash cooks, rinse the spinach in warm water and place it in a large pot with plenty of water still clinging to the leaves. Cook, covered, until just wilted, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer the cooked spinach to a large platter, squeeze the lemon juice over it, and season lightly with salt. Spoon the curry and all its juices over the spinach, scatter the remaining basil on top and serve right, with steamed rice alongside.

Michele Anna Jordan is author of the new “Good Cook’s” series. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com and visit her blog at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.