Wine of the week: Decoy 2009 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

Inexpensive pinot noir? That seems like an oxymoron.

Indeed, It's rare to find a bottle of pinot in the $20range that's as impressive as Duckhorn's Decoy.

The Decoy 2009 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is our wine-of-the week winner, even though it wasn't as complex as some of the heavy hitters like Merry Edwards, which was, incidentally, striking. But at $22 a bottle, the Decoy is an incredible find in the world of pinot noir.

"The Decoy represents some of the best vineyards of the Anderson Valley, including lots from our estate vineyards," said Neil Bernardi, one of the Duckhorn winemakers. "This was always a standout wine for us at the blending table, and it has continued to develop in the bottle."

The pinot is a collaboration between Bernardi and another Duckhorn winemaker, Zach Rasmuson.

"Most growers agree that pinot is a very challenging varietal to grow well, and most winemakers agree that it can be challenging to make well," Bernardi said. "However, because of how well the varietal expresses where and how it was grown, the results can be exciting."

Bernardi has been with Napa Valley's Duckhorn Vineyards for five years and Rasmuson for nine.

"Both Zach and I feel that every year is a learning experience in the vineyard as well as the winery," Bernardi said. "Often the most challenging years, like 2011, have the most to teach. If anything, wine is a story of place and time, and expresses what happened throughout the growing season in a particular place. Differences in climate, soil, and a winemaker's approach distinguish and define what is interesting about wine. Through this lens, every vintage has the promise of being great, even if Mother Nature can sometimes make things exciting."

What makes Bernardi and Rasmuson well-suited to cultivate pinot noir, the finicky grape?

"They say diversity is the spice of life," Bernardi said. "Pinot is endlessly fascinating because it is so expressive, and being able to work with various appellations, vineyards, and techniques assures that every day is interesting."

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.