Berger: Celebrate Alsace varietals at festival in Mendocino

What’s not to like about riesling? A single sip proves it.

It is a grape blessed with a gorgeous floral aroma, usually has good acidity and is a joy to appreciate even if you know nothing about wine.

Mendocino County has believed in this variety for decades. It is one of the most blessed places on Earth in which to grow this Germanic grape variety, and it remains a beneficent place for the variety.

Production of riesling in the United States remains small, probably because most Americans think of the variety as producing only sweeter wines.

However, dry riesling production in the United States is increasing dramatically, and many of these will be on display in late February in the Anderson Valley, when the 2017 Alsace Varietals Festival is once again staged.

Historically, riesling is German but since Anderson Valley today also makes many wines from the other grapes of Alsace, that region’s name was chosen for the festival.

The county also grows fabulous pinot gris, pinot blanc, muscat and gewurztraminer, so wines from those grapes also will be served at the festival.

Attendees will be treated to foods appropriate for these wines.

Roughly 40 wineries, many of them local, will pour their wines at the Saturday, Feb. 25, grand tasting, which is open to the public. Included will be wines from Germany, New Zealand, Alsace and California.

That evening, two optional Alsace-style banquets will be staged that feature great Alsace-heritage wines. Although most of the wines at the grand tasting will be white, red wine lovers are certain to get some reds at the dinners because Alsace also makes stylish pinot noirs.

Details of the various events occurring in Anderson Valley in late February can be found at avwines.com/alsace-festival.

One feature of the Alsace festival each year is an 8:30 a.m. to noon symposium that will feature a seated tasting of wines led by local winemakers. It’s slightly geekier than the normal wine-tasting experience and carries a higher price tag than just the grand tasting alone.

A special combination price ($95) has been established for the symposium and the tasting, with a Dec. 31 deadline for that option. A series of Sunday open-house winery events concludes the weekend.

Wine of the Week: 2015 Jana Riesling, Mendocino ($22). The attractive tropical fruit aroma of this excellent Mosel-styled wine reflects its inland vineyard site (south of Ukiah), and the excellent acidity and delicate mineral notes that make it a sensational match with Thai cuisine. From Napa Valley wine maker Scott Harvey, who was trained in Germany.

Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County and publishes “Vintage Experiences,” a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at winenut@gmail.com.