In an industrial park, not far from the Napa County Airport, there is a wine operation unlike any you’ve seen or heard of. Not only is the purpose of Safe Harbor Wine Storage unusual, as far as wineries go, but its quirky name doesn’t exactly say winery. Compared to other Northern California wineries. Safe Harbor has a ginormous footprint, with two very large, nondescript buildings that look more like warehouses than winery buildings. Inside each building is a vast forest of various size stainless steel tanks, ranging from 6,450 gallons to 32,500 gallons, for a total of 340 tanks ... and there is space in the newest building for more.
The sheer size and scope of Safe Harbor is impressive, even in the Napa Valley where winery size and scope is often meant to be impressive. What sets Safe Harbor apart is that it is not a winery in the traditional sense, like the scores of wineries farther up the valley.
Safe Harbor Wine Storage is a specific purpose wine service that works with wineries throughout California, as well as such far-flung wine regions as Italy, France and Argentina, to process and enhance their wines. The foreign wines are shipped to Safe Harbor for enhancement and aging, bottled and then sold in the United States.
On any given day, lines of wine tanker trucks wait outside to unload. The genius part is that these trucks hold 6,450 gallons of wine, the same quantity (or multiples of that quantity) as the Safe Harbor tanks. Credit that moment of design insight to the owners of Safe Harbor: Steve and Allen Sullivan, owners of the Stavin oak stave company; Cory Beck, president and director of winemaking at Francis Ford Coppola Winery; and Scott McLeod, consulting winemaker and co-founder of WineXRay. Each owner brings winemaking expertise or a useful winemaking adjunct such as oak to the Safe Harbor operation.
A major function of Safe Harbor is to provide oak seasoning, or “enhancement” to the clients’ wine. Enhancement is a wine-speak metaphor for processes that make a simple wine more complex, such as aging with oak additions. Oak additions come in various forms, such as staves, chips and blocks. Oak staves are planks mounted on a frame that is immersed into a tank. The idea is to “oak age” a large quantity of wine in one tank rather than a number of individual oak barrels. Staves are used more often than chips or blocks.
Why should you, the wine consumer, care about Safe Harbor Wine Storage? Estimates are that approximately 80 to 90 percent of the wine sold today in California is what is known in the trade as bulk wine. Most wine consumers envision a winery as a place with presses, oak barrels, a few steel tanks and maybe chandeliers hanging from the low ceilings to give the place atmosphere.
You won’t find that at Safe Harbor Wine Storage. Instead, there are rows upon rows of shiny stainless steel tanks, all the same height, marching in formation from one end of the building to the other. General Manager and Winemaker Joel Green says the business park places a height maximum on all buildings; “So to maximize our gallons, all of the tanks in both buildings are the same height.”
Green says during harvest, when all of the tanks are full, Safe Harbor stores 8 million gallons. “And just 20 cellar workers and himself as winemaker, handle all that wine.” he added.
THIS WEEK’S BLIND TASTING
Rare Birds –– those Spectacular Chenin Blancs
Lang & Reed
Lang & Reed, 2016 Napa Valley Chenin Blanc, 13.5% alcohol, $27. ★★★★1/2
This bottling’s bright fruit is buoyed by bright acidity. Aromas and flavors of apple, quince and honey. Citrusy finish. Impeccable balance, a dance of lush and crisp. It’s a striking take on the varietal.
Graziano, 2016 Mendocino County Dry Chenin Blanc, 13.5%, $15. ★★★★: This racy chenin blanc benefits from its duality. On one hand, it’s rich and creamy and on the other, it’s bright with crisp acid and great minerality. In the end, it’s weighted to a full-bodied, fruit-forward California version. Top rate.
Chappellet, 2016 Napa Valley Signature Chenin Blanc, 14.1%, $32. ★★★★: This dry chenin blanc is crisp and clean. It has beautiful aromas of gardenia, with notes of Meyer lemon and apple. Its bright acid gives it lovely balance.
Husch, 2016 Mendocino Chenin Blanc, 13.2%, $13. ★★★★: This is a pretty chenin blanc that’s a touch sweet and plays up California fruit. It’s refreshing –– light-bodied and nimble.
Leo Steen Wines, 2016 Santa Ynez Valley, Central Coast Chenin Blanc, 12.5%, $28. ★★★★: This chenin blanc has an impressive range — nectarine, peach and citrus peel. It’s light and lively, with impeccable balance. Finishes crisp.