Vintners hope proposed appellation draws attention to their distinct climate, soils

Grapevines swayed in the steady breeze brushing across Pine Mountain, which towers over the Alexander Valley floor and the small town of Cloverdale.

Vineyard owner Barry Hoffner walked through rows of budding vines, which at 2,600 feet were a few weeks behind the already verdant fields down in the valley.

"We have some of the highest-elevation vineyards in Sonoma County," said Hoffner, whose Silverwood Ranch has 45 acres planted to cabernet and merlot. "It's more expensive to grow up here, but it results in a very distinct grape."

Hoffner bought the ranch in 2003 and now owns 1,150 acres. He and other growers whose properties encircle the summit of Pine Mountain believe the area's unique growing climate and distinct soils, and its history of Prohibition wine producers, deserve official recognition.

They asked the federal government four years ago for permission to create the Pine Mountain-Mayacmas AVA or American Viticultural Area. Mayacmas is the U.S. Geological Survey name for the range more commonly known as the Mayacamas.

This spring, the government tentatively approved their request and is now seeking public comment before making its expected final ruling later this year. People have until July 26 to post comments at www.regulations.gov.

If approved, Pine Mountain will be Sonoma County's 13th officially recognized appellation officially recognized, joining the well-recognized Sonoma Valley and Russian River Valley regions and the lesser-known Knights Valley and Rockpile.

"Wineries are trying to distinguish themselves with very targeted grapes," said Hoffner. All the fruit from his vineyards is sold to Sonoma County wineries.

The growers say having their appellation is a matter of both pride and business. Vintners will be able to print the Pine Mountain-Mayacmas designation on their labels, and that will increase sales to the discerning wine lovers, they believe.

"It will require marketing," admits Tim Ward, vineyard manager for Sky Pine Vineyards, which is located on the south side of the mountain.

But growers think wine drinkers will come to recognize the name as a sign of wine with distinct quality and flavor, and that will lead to increased sales or higher prices. The Pine Mountain label will let drinkers know they are in for a unique experience, they say.

"Mountain grapes are distinct in every aspect," Ward said. "It's extreme farming. It's expensive farming."

The steep vineyards prevent farmers from using most machinery, and that means most work is done by hand, Ward said. Plus, the rocky soil results in vines producing about half the yield of those on the valley floor, he said.

"It's pretty rotten soil up here," Ward said. "The plants have to struggle to get a foothold."

Vines must send their roots deep into the fractured shale and weathered sandstone. That struggle results in smaller grapes with thick skins and distinct colors.

The region is well suited for red grapes that produce hearty wines bursting with flavor.

"Up here, this is red country," Ward said. "The intensity is in the color and the aroma."

The appellation encompasses about 4,600 acres, all of them above 1,600 feet. It runs from northeast Sonoma County to southeast Mendocino county.

Area farmers have grown wine grapes since the 1870s, according to the application submitted by Pine Mountain growers. "During Prohibition, some growers moved up onto the mountain to escape authorities," Hoffner said.

Pine Mountain's summit soars above the surrounding land at an elevation of 3,000 feet and provides far-reaching views of Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake counties.

Patches of flatter ground within the steep terrain allow for the development of small vineyards ranging from 5 acres to 20 acres. Most of their grapes are purchased by large wineries down in the valley.

Silverwood Ranch leases 30 acres to Benzinger Family Winery and supplies Francis Ford Coppola Winery with nearly all the grapes from its other 15-acre vineyard.

The sole winery in the proposed appellation is BobDog Wines, run by Ward and his wife. It produces 2,000 cases of wine, with prices ranging from $12 to $24 a bottle.

Benjamin and Tara Sharp use grapes from their Tin Cross Vineyard on Pine Mountain for their wine label Capture Wines.

"The fact it has an AVA doesn't change what is in the bottle," Benjamin Sharp said. "But it might increase people's willingness to explore it."

You can reach Staff Writer Nathan Halverson at 703-1577 or nathan.halverson@pressdemocrat.com.