It has been about 30 years since Gary Farrell's first wine hit the shelf with almost zero publicity.
Gary's latest wines also have hit the shelf; and now, three decades later, the buzz is about the same. Near zero.
Except this time, there are literally hundreds of quiet followers of his sensational pinot noirs, which is almost the way Gary, a most self-effacing individual, would like it.
To be sure, faster sales would be welcome to a startup winery, which is always cash-strapped. Still, the lack of publicity about these fabulous wines is partly a result of how Gary does business, the style of wine he makes, and the fact that that style isn't particularly favored by some of the heavy-hitter wine columnists who want wines of more oomph.
The brand we are talking about here is Alysian. Chances are you have never heard of it. It is based in the Russian River area of Sonoma County, where Gary sources all of his fruit. It is an area of the world he considers best for the style of pinot noir (and a small amount of chardonnay) he believes in.
And that style is based more on grace, balance, structure and finesse than just about any producer of pinot noir in the New World.
"Most of my 2008s (pinot noirs) were just a bit over 14% alcohol," says Farrell almost apologetically. "But my '09s are mostly under 14% and all of my '10s are under 14% - well under."
It is this restraint that has kept Farrell and a handful of other pinot producers out of the "flashy" niche favored by most wine columnists. The wines currently in vogue are black and feature ultra-ripe flavors and soft acidities. I call them clumsy.
Alysian wines are delicate, somewhat shy on release, and utterly respectful of the vineyards from which they come. And a key reason is that Farrell harvests his fruit about two weeks earlier than all others who use similar vineyards. Early picking makes for a wine with more structure and less obvious aromatics.
As a result, they are not very showy when they are released; some believe the wines to be lacking. But I have followed Gary's career since his first wine, a 1978 Davis Bynum Winery Pinot Noir, and I know how fabulous these wines can get over time.
Gary never studied winemaking. He is self-taught, having earned a degree in a completely unrelated field and working at Davis Bynum while going through college, doing work unrelated to winemaking. Over the years, Gary moved from handyman into the driver's seat, and soon (in the early 1980s) developed his own wine brand, under his own name.
The Gary Farrell Wines, brand, and winery became quite a success through the 1990s, and eventually became such a business that Gary was forced to do aspects of the business (purchasing equipment, selling wine) that had nothing to do with wine-making.
So eventually the brand was sold, and it still produces terrific wines from winemaker Susan Reed, with whom Gary has a great working relationship. (It's his name, after all.)
To start anew and get out from behind a desk, Gary and partner William Hambrecht, a San Francisco venture capitalist with a passion for great wine, started up Alysian in 2007. The first wines were excellent, but "not the style I prefer," he said. Translation: they were a bit showier than he likes.
The 2008s, just released, are sensational wines. Most of the vineyard-designated wines sell for $55 a bottle and more. But one of the most complex wines Farrell makes each year is a blend that sells for "only" $40.
And in the world of great pinot noir, that is a bargain.
[BOLD_TEXTRR]Wine of the Week:
2008 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir, Russian River Selection ($40) - Striking fruit aroma that is graceful and delicate, with hints of cherry, spices (from aging in French oak barrels), clove, and a bit of cranberry. Needs a lot of air or a few more years. This is a wine that a decade from now will still be delivering complexity and fruit.
Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, where he publishes "Vintage Experiences," a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at winenut@gmail.com.
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