On a sun-splashed afternoon in Sonoma County's Wine Country, a Norwegian tourist rode a rented bicycle in the middle of a two-lane road, recording the natural beauty around him with a video camera that he cradled in one hand.
The bucolic setting west of Healdsburg has helped fuel the county's growing reputation as a world-class destination for cycling.
But as Bengt Eliassen kept pedaling and filming a few weeks ago, he was oblivious to a sport utility vehicle that had driven up behind him on Lambert Bridge Road. The truck followed Eliassen for several hundred yards until turning at the intersection with Dry Creek Road.
At a general store across the street, Eliassen chuckled when he was informed about the truck. "Normally, I don't ride with a camera," he said.
The brief encounter turned out to be a nonevent. But similar encounters between cyclists and motorists on Sonoma County's back roads and on city streets have led to some tense moments, and even crashes or intentional acts of violence. The CHP reports an increasing number of complaints from both cyclists and motorists who blame each other for flouting traffic laws and putting people's safety at risk.
This comes at a time when cycling has never been more popular in Sonoma County, where the number of people using bikes to go sightseeing, work out, commute or just cruise around town has proliferated.
That popularity is bolstered by the world-class athletes who train here, including Santa Rosa's Levi Leipheimer, and by the prestigious cycling events that are staged here, including the Amgen Tour of California and Leipheimer's King Ridge GranFondo, which drew 7,500 participants in October in only its third year.
"I think it's the best place on earth to ride a bike," Leipheimer said of Sonoma County during a recent speech to the Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce.
But paradise still has its ugly side. Ask Martha Fast, a 17-year-old Santa Rosa High School junior who was struck by a car last month as she rode her bicycle to school. The irony? She was riding on Humboldt Street, the city's designated bike thoroughfare.
"I guess it was a moment where me and the driver both had different expectations of what the other was going to do," said Fast, who was not seriously injured.
Cary Yerves, a retired facilities manager for American Express who lives in Santa Rosa, said he feels his native city is being overrun by cyclists who "do whatever they want."
He said he was walking on the sidewalk to the bank last week when he narrowly escaped being hit by a bicyclist who was riding on the sidewalk.
"The girl yells, &‘I almost ran you over!' And I turned and said, &‘You have no damn business riding on the sidewalk!'"
Road-rage concerns
CHP Officer Jon Sloat said the No. 1 complaint he hears about cyclists is when they ride several abreast on roads and impede traffic.
That can trigger road rage, which is the foremost concern the CHP hears about motorists. Sloat said the CHP has taken three or four reports this year about motorists who deliberately forced cyclists off the road.
"It's our culture of impatience," Sloat said. "When cyclists are taking their time on the road and you can't pass them, motorists get very frustrated."
But he said no matter who's right or wrong, a person driving a 4,000-pound vehicle always has the advantage over a person riding a bike.
"If you use your vehicle like a weapon, there are repercussions," he said.
Such tensions are nothing new in Sonoma County. As far back as 1895, a local newspaper reported that "silent steeds" were becoming a nuisance to riders on horseback. And they were seen as a threat to the local livery industry, according to research compiled by Sonoma County Museum curator Eric Stanley for the museum's current exhibit on the history of cycling in the county.
Passions have ebbed and flowed in the intervening decades, and they appear to be running hot once again, as an increasing number of cyclists jockey with vehicles for space on the county's roads.
"We've had an increase in complaints from both sides, about motorists not respecting the rights of cyclists, and complaints from motorists saying cyclists shouldn't be taking over the road," Sloat said.
"It's kind of a juggling act between the two," he said.
Crash numbers steady
The number of bicycle collisions that have occurred on unincorporated Sonoma County roads has held steady in recent years, including 34 collisions reported so far this year. That includes solo crashes in which only the cyclist was involved.
In 2008, 22 cyclists were injured in crashes on county roads and state highways. That compares with 23 injuries reported to date in 2011.
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