An early morning breeze ripples the surface of Drakes Estero, the silence broken by the outboard motor on a weatherbeaten work boat heading south to harvest oysters.
Three men wearing rubber waders step onto a sandbar, knee-deep in the estuary's cold, clear water, and hoist bags full of the prized mollusks onto a 30-foot barge lashed to the boat.
"This is sustainable agriculture," said Ginny Cummings, seated on the work boat's gunwale. "A perfect example of coexistence."
But in almost her next breath, Cummings, who grew up with her three brothers on a ranch overlooking the estero, acknowledged how fiercely some people believe otherwise.
"We're talking about two different ideologies," she said.
The 2,500-acre estero, a five-fingered estuary in the Point Reyes National Seashore on the Marin County coast, is an anomaly.
It is a maritime cornucopia that yields about 8 million commercially cultivated Pacific oysters a year. And it is a designated wilderness, defined by Congress as a place "untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain."
Oyster farming in the estero dates back to the 1930s, but the Drakes Bay Oyster Co., operated by Cummings and her brothers, depends on a permit granted by the federal government 40 years ago when it bought the property from a previous owner.
The permit expires Nov. 30, and for the past five years, a maelstrom of politics, disputed science and conflicting principles - pure wilderness versus productive use of natural resources - has swirled around the estero and the oyster farm located near its northern end, just off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard.
The dispute is headed for resolution this fall by Interior Secretary Ken Salazar, who holds sole authority to decide whether the oyster company's permit is renewed for 10 years.
There is little, if any, room for compromise. The dispute pits wilderness advocates and the National Park Service against the oyster farm, sympathetic Marin ranchers and their ally, Sen. Dianne Feinstein, one of the most powerful members of Congress.
Wilderness advocates want the farm, which harvests $1.5 million worth of oysters a year, shut down and its presence, including shoreline buildings and wooden oyster growing racks in the estero, removed.
"There are appropriate places to grow clams and oysters," said Amy Trainer, executive director of the West Marin Environmental Action Committee, a 41-year-old nonprofit group based in Point Reyes Station, 10 miles from the oyster farm. "A national park is not the right place."
It's a matter of principle, said Neal Desai of the National Parks Conservation Association, a national watchdog on parks policy.
"We were promised a marine wilderness," Desai said. "The public has waited for 40 years. Now it's time for a higher and better use for the estero."
Sylvia Earle, a world renowned oceanographer based in Oakland, said the estero - teeming with fish, birds and harbor seals - should be free of those who "derive financial gain at the expense of a national treasure," she wrote in a Huffington Post column in March.
Kevin Lunny, who runs the family-owned oyster farm, said the estero is an incomparable ecosystem that benefits from shellfish cultivation. The farm, which employs about 35 people, boosts the local economy and helps the nation deal with a $10 billion a year seafood trade deficit.
"We've always been open to compromise," Lunny said, but his opponents "haven't moved off the dime at all."
Nearly all - 92 percent - of the more than 52,000 public comments on the National Park Service's draft environmental report last year favored full wilderness protection for the estero, Earle said.
A final version of the 2-inch-thick report is due out before the oyster farm's permit expires, but it's unclear when Salazar might make a decision. National Park Service officials in Washington did not respond to repeated telephone calls and e-mails regarding Salazar's action.
The 500-page environmental report released by the Park Service in September did not identify a "preferred alternative" regarding the oyster farm permit. But it said the "environmentally preferred alternative" would be to deny the permit renewal, protecting the estero from motorboats, oyster racks and other impacts.
The final report will include a preferred alternative.
Feinstein, a San Francisco resident, weighed in five years ago at the request of Marin County supervisors, and now asserts that the Park Service has "stained its reputation" with faulty science regarding the oyster company's impact on the estero.
In a letter to the state Fish and Game Commission in May, Feinstein cited four instances in which the Park Service's scientific assessments were faulted and said "it is my belief that the Park Service is doing everything it can to justify ending the oyster farm's operations."
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