New chef brings new dishes to Yountville’s North Block

The last time I dined at The Restaurant at North Block in Yountville two years ago, the kitchen was under the direction of chef Nick Tamburo, previously executive chef of New York City’s now-closed Momofuku Nishi. The result was a mashup Italian-American-Asian fusion. I liked the sometimes-odd recipes, but I did wonder if Napa Valley clientele would warm to things like duck liver sprinkled with bitter matcha powder for spreading on rye crackers.

Earlier this year, the upscale eatery in North Block Hotel closed for renovations. When it reopened in May, it offered a new concept focusing on California cuisine, plus pizzas and pasta. Cultivated by the restaurant’s new Executive Chef Juan Cabrera (previously chef de cuisine at nearby Chandon winery), the menus are more approachable now but still sparked with personality. It’s a successful compromise between interesting and familiar.

I’m liking the new cocktail program, too, including a tableside cocktail cart. The service lends a nifty retro flair to the restaurant’s otherwise-modern setting of sleek wood, glass and massive globe pendant lights resembling planets descending from space. Explore something fun, like the briny Sea-Tini of oyster-infused Sherringham Seaside Gin and Blanc Vermouth finished with lemon twists, Castelvetrano olives and a side of yuzu-infused roe tucked in a clamshell ($18). Or try the Valles Verdes of mezcal, tequila, ginger, serrano, tomatillo, cucumber, gin, lime and Accompani Flora Green herbal hyssop-chamomile liqueur ($18).

“Locals certainly love their wine, but we also get many locals and tourists alike who are intrigued by cocktails, given that it’s unique and different from anything currently offered in Yountville,” Bar Manager Joshua Hernandez told me as he rattled a drink shaker..

Well-heeled groups might start with a Grand Plateau seafood platter brimming with oysters on the half shell, clams, abalone, prawns, Dungeness crab salad and yellowfin tuna ($154).

But the more modest kampachi crudo is also a showstopper, of delicate fish laced with sliced sweet strawberries, sour kumquat and shiso in a pond of chilled verbena tea ($21). Sous chef Anthony Hughey recommended the dish while doing double duty as a server — and it was spot-on superb.

Italian burrata is on so many local menus nowadays it’s become a California signature. This is a lovely rendition — the cheese is Belfiore brand rather than homemade, but the generous serving gets a boost from zucchini ribbons, tangy citrus marmalade, peppery microgreens, olive oil and thick slices of grilled sourdough ($21).

It’s easy to make a meal of small plates here, as they are some of the most compelling dishes, compared to more predictable classic entrees such as salmon ($45), New York sirloin ($71) and wood-roasted chicken ($35). A starter of lightly charred octopus wins for its perfect tenderness, partnered with roasted potatoes, Castelvetrano olives, asparagus and zippy romesco sauce ($25).

I have to say the pizza didn’t look good when it arrived on its wood board — the crust was blackened and the edges of the Journeyman mortadella were curled and burned. But the dish redeemed itself with Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt Tam triple-cream Brie cheese, royal trumpet mushrooms and crunchy pistachios ($23).

Meanwhile, fresh cacio e pepe pasta makes for another appetizer, as the serving size is small. But it’s rich and satisfying, the wide stands of spaghettoni dressed with lots of tellicherry peppercorn and pecorino Romano ($23).

Lovely seasonal strawberries make another appearance for dessert. A strawberry-lavender crunch is one of the best treats I’ve had in a while, with clouds of pastry cream dotted with brown butter strudel and whole berries on a puddle of strawberry sauce, powdered sugar and fresh mint leaves ($12).

There’s another new thing to appreciate about the reinvented North Block. The staff seems to be sincerely having fun again, cracking jokes with customers and being as friendly as can be. After a rough few years for the industry, that makes any meal extra delicious.

Carey Sweet is a Sebastopol-based food and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every other week in Sonoma Life. Contact her at carey@careysweet.com.