100 amazing Sonoma County and California wines 2023

In Wine Country, with an endless array of wines to drink and a new vintage each year, how do you choose which ones to try now?

This year for The Press Democrat’s list of 100 Amazing Wines, we asked sommeliers and wine experts across Sonoma County and the Bay Area to give their recommendations, drawing from their knowledge of varietals that are popular or worth exploring now. These are new releases, the latest vintage, wines from venerable wineries and emerging producers. And the sommeliers, many of them judges at annual wine competitions, who chose these wines give insight into how they picked amazing wines for their lists.

A note on the prices: The price listed for each wine is the price on the winemaker’s website as of early November. However, you may find a lower price for the same bottle at a grocery store or major online wine retailer.

The exception to prices listed on winery websites is our list of wines under $20, put together by Barry Herbst, wine buyer at Bottle Barn. In this list, the prices listed are Bottle Barn prices, which are often similar to prices for these wines at other major retailers.

Sparkling wine, by Peg Melnik

Sauvignon blanc, by Alexandria Sarovich

Aromatic white wine, by Sarah Doyle

BONUS: Value wines under $20, by Barry Herbst

Rosé, by Debra Del Fiorentino

Russian River Valley pinot noir, by Peg Melnik

Pinot noir from other regions, by Peg Melnik

Zinfandel, by Paul Coker

Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon, by Peg Melnik

Uncommon varietals, by Sarah Doyle

Rhone wines and BONUS: 6 Italian-style wines, by Chris Gaither

BONUS: Bordeaux-style wine, by Chris Sawyer

About Press Democrat Wine Writer Sarah Doyle and Press Democrat Wine Critic Peg Melnik

Sparkling wine

Recommended by Peg Melnik, wine critic at The Press Democrat

Benovia, 2018 Blanc de Noir Sparkling Wine, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Benovia, 2018 Blanc de Noir Sparkling Wine, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Benovia, 2018 Blanc de Noir Sparkling Wine, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($60): This elegant sparkler is striking, with irresistible charm. Buoyed by crisp acidity, it has flavors of cherry, hazelnut and lemon. Winemaker Mike Sullivan proved his gift for crafting sparklers right out of the gate. His first vintage was 2012, released in 2017 after five years of aging, and he’s been on a winning streak ever since.

Bricoleur, NV Isla Rose Brut Rosé, Sonoma County ($60): A feminine sparkler, this breezy brut rosé is impressive. It has refreshing notes of watermelon, strawberry and mineral coupled with a note of rich brioche. The sweet story behind this sparkler is that vintner Mark Hanson named it after his granddaughter, Isla Rose.

Domaine Carneros, NV Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé, ($45): This is a racy brut rosé, crisp and refreshing with notes of wild strawberry, peach and mineral. This sparkler is a nod to the late Madame de Pompadour, the great courtesan and mistress of Louis XV who is credited with introducing Champagne to the court. If you visit Domaine Carneros in Napa Valley, you’ll see a large portrait of her in the entryway of the chateau. This playful bottling is typically only available in the tasting room.

Iron Horse, 2019 Classic Vintage Brut (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Iron Horse, 2019 Classic Vintage Brut (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Flaunt, 2019 Brut Sparkling Wine, Russian River Valley ($48): This lovely sparkler is nice and dry, with notes of nectarine, brioche and mineral. Well-crafted, this layered bottling finishes crisp. It’s interesting to note that Flaunt’s founder, vintner Dianna Novy, was the co-founder of Siduri. That house of pinot made a splash at the White House when Siduri wine was selected for holiday parties in 2013.

Gloria Ferrer, 2013 Carneros Cuvee, ($94): This sparkler has spent eight years en tirage (aging on the yeast), and the passage of time has served it well. Complex and elegant, this sparkler has yeasty aromas with apple and brioche on the palate. Jose Ferrer and his wife, Gloria, bet on the cool climate of the Carneros for their venture in the 1980s, and this bottling shows their instincts were spot-on.

Iron Horse, 2019 Classic Vintage Brut, Green Valley ($58): This sparkler is impressive, with stone fruit marrying well with citrus. And while rich with brioche and toasty notes, this bubbly is buoyed with crisp acidity and has pitch-perfect balance. This sparkler comes from incurable romantics, founding partners Audrey and the late Barry Sterling. They first saw the Sebastopol property for Iron Horse in pouring rain in 1976 and said the 300 acres of rolling hills looked like Camelot. They bought the property within two weeks and built their house of bubbly.

J. Schram, 2014 Blancs, North Coast ($140): Stone fruit and citrus are coupled with notes of brioche and ginger in this tasty sparkler. This bottling hails from Schramsberg, a winery with a role in history. Its Blanc de Blancs was uncorked for President Nixon’s 1972 “Toast to Peace” with Zhou Enlai, Premier of the People’s Republic of China.

J. Schram, 2014 Blancs (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
J. Schram, 2014 Blancs (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

J Vineyards, 2008 Extra Late Disgorged Sparkling Wine, Russian River Valley ($200): This impressive sparkler has a ying-yang balance that works well. Rich notes of brioche and baked apple meet mandarin and mineral. Head winemaker Nicole Hitchcock is behind this bottling; she’s a woman who understands the lexicon of wine. “Wine is like a universal language,” Hitchcock once said. “It can transcend physical and cultural boundaries and ultimately brings people together.”

Korbel, 2019 Natural Champagne, Russian River Valley ($18): With layered notes of raspberry, green apple and a twist of lemon, this bottling over-delivers for its price. A footnote for the curious who wonder how Champagne can be bottled in California, when the name is reserved for sparkling wine made in Champagne, France: Korbel was grandfathered into a provision under U.S. law, allowing it to call its bottlings California Champagne or Russian River Valley Champagne.

L’Ermitage, 2017 Brut Sparkling Wine, Anderson Valley ($75): Elegant and complex, this sparkler will turn heads. Rich flavors of brioche and baked green apple are kept in check with refreshing citrus notes, all riding on crisp acid. French winemaker Arnaud Weyrich brings the best of Old-World winemaking to California’s sun-kissed grapes; and this sparkler is a testament of that.

Sauvignon blanc

Recommended by Alexandria Sarovich, executive wine director at Little Saint, Healdsburg

Alex Sarovich, sommelier and executive wine director at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Little Saint)
Alex Sarovich, sommelier and executive wine director at Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Little Saint)

Aesthete, 2019 Barrel Aged Sauvignon Blanc, Bennett Valley, Dry Stack Vineyard, Sonoma County ($85): This is the baller sauvignon blanc that has raked in multiple awards for its complexity and long finish. It’s sure to be a hit with wine lovers. With 50% new French oak, it’s aged in barrels for 17 months. For a wine you want to lay down in your cellar, or to rival some of the greatest Bordeaux blancs, this is the one.

Arnot-Roberts, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Yorkville Highlands, Randle Hill Vineyard ($35): If you can get your hands on a bottle of Arnot-Roberts sauvignon blanc, don’t hesitate. Lean and grassy with salty undertones, this wine is ideal for a hot day and sharing with good friends, especially those who may not be huge sauvignon blanc fans.

Cep, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, Hopkins Ranch ($25 from online retailers): The Cep wines made by the great Peay Vineyards have been a go-to for by-the-glass offerings at Little Saint for quite a while. We love this wine because you have winemaker Vanessa Wong’s talent and top vineyard sourcing, but it’s reasonably priced because they are not farming it on the extreme Sonoma Coast.

Curves & Edges, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($35): Curves & Edges is a new project from Todd and Lindsey Kohn. Todd is the winemaker at Wayfarer Vineyards and Lindsey was swept away from running her wine bar in Texas, where she was a proprietor for eight years, to move to California. Their wines are inspired by France’s Loire Valley and even though they are sourcing fruit from the warmer Russian River Valley, they have been able to maintain a level of freshness and “curves and edges.”

Arnot-Roberts, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Yorkville Highlands, Randle Hill Vineyard (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Arnot-Roberts, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Yorkville Highlands, Randle Hill Vineyard (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Dot Wine, 2022 Nalu Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($28): Dot Wines, made by Filipina American Lise Asimont and her husband, Shawn, is a perfect poolside or beach sipper. Dot by Nalu wine has held court on the Little Saint wine list for its bright citrus and pineapple notes while not being too ripe. (The 2022 vintage is sold out at the winery, but the 2023 vintage is due to arrive in February.)

Husch, Renegade Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino ($23): Neutral-oak barrels and native yeast fermentation go into this wine that is made using regenerative “no-till” farming, where the microbiome of the soil remains intact from harvest to harvest. Ripe melon, guava, white peach, orange blossom and a twist of green tropical fruit greet the nose.

Korbin Kameron, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Moon Mountain District ($35): This wine from Korbin Kameron, with vineyards located up to 2,300 feet in elevation, highest in the Moon Mountain AVA, has a steely mineral character with lime blossom and yuzu. It’s the type of wine that retains an earthy finish while still being very fresh.

Lioco, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, Lolonis Vineyard ($42): Lioco is always a go-to selection for every variety they make. Although sauvignon blanc is not their focus, the Lioco team does a fantastic job making remarkable wine from the Lolonis vineyard, with head-trained 80-year-old vines. The lean, precise winemaking of Drew Huffine and Matt Licklider at Lioco, plus the great grape material, adds up to delicious notes of white grapefruit, tarragon and Key lime.

Spottswoode, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast ($45): Spottswoode sauvignon blanc is truly a favorite white wine from the North Coast, especially when it comes to a sea-inspired dinner menu. This California Certified Organic Farmers-certified winery has been lady-led for the past three generations! This complex and layered sauvignon blanc has the grapes sourced from top vineyards in both Napa and Sonoma counties, and the pedigree shows.

2022 Sutro Warnake Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
2022 Sutro Warnake Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Sutro, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Alexander Valley, Warnecke Ranch ($35): Think passionfruit, lemon, thyme and mouth-watering acidity. This wine is made by Alice Sutro on their sustainable vineyard on Chalk Hill. This single-vineyard sauvignon blanc is a richer style that belongs on the dinner table.

About Alexandria Sarovich: As executive wine director at Little Saint, Alexandria leads a sommelier team dedicated to creating a unique gathering space to support the community and elevate minority voices in the wine industry. Since the opening of Little Saint, Alex has grown the wine program from 250 bottles to 1,000 bottles and achieved Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence. Before she joined Little Saint, Alex was a sommelier at the three-Michelin-starred SingleThread. Outside her role at Little Saint, Alex has mentored women working in the wine industry through the Bâtonnage Mentorship Program. She was named VinePair’s New Wave Sommelier of the Year in 2023 and has been featured in Condé Nast Traveler, Sonoma Magazine, Wine Spectator, the Wall Street Journal and other publications.

How Alexandria came up with her list: “In looking for a great wine, balance and finish are the two characteristics that separate the good from the great, although many details contribute to the overall greatness of a wine. Finish is how long the wine lingers on the palate; often the sense of place will shine through on the finish, presenting itself in mineral (notes) or earthiness. As for balance, this is like yin and yang — if the acidity is high, there should be another characteristic, like ripe fruit, to balance it out.

“Sauvignon blanc, a grape variety that grows plentifully here in the North Coast, is one of our most popular varieties sold at Little Saint. The Little Saint wine program features a collection of wines that are made by winemakers committed to lessening their impact on the Earth. We feature iconic and new-wave producers from around the globe, with a strong representation of California wines.”

Aromatic white wine

Recommended by Sarah Doyle, wine writer at The Press Democrat

Abbot’s Passage, 2021 Noontide, Napa County ($35): Sixth-generation vintner Katie Bundschu continues to impress at Abbot’s Passage winery in Glen Ellen where she produces small-lot, co-fermented field blends from vineyards in Sonoma and Napa counties. For her 2021 Noontide, Bundschu doubled down on aromatic white varietals, blending 85% sauvignon blanc and 15% muscat for a crisp, vibrant wine with notes of pineapple, lemongrass, beeswax and lemon zest.

Furthermore Wines, 2021 Riesling, Sonoma Coast (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Furthermore Wines, 2021 Riesling, Sonoma Coast (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Edaphos by Ernest, 2022 Malvasia Bianca, Russian River Valley, Rancho Coda ($38): Ernest Vineyards experimental Edaphos label highlights less common varietals produced in small lots, like this delightful Malvasia Bianca from the steep Rancho Coda vineyard in the Russian River Valley. Anticipate aromas of peach, pear, honeysuckle and jasmine with freshly zested citrus on the palate.

Furthermore Wines, 2021 Riesling, Sonoma Coast ($35): A Best of Class and Double Gold winner at the 2023 North Coast Wine Challenge, this 2021 riesling is Furthermore Wines’ first foray into this classic, aromatic white varietal. Under consulting winemaker Ross Cobb, this dry Sonoma Coast riesling is graceful yet multilayered, with floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom, ripe apricot and a mineral-driven finish.\

Husch Vineyards, 2022 Dry Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley ($18): It’s hard to beat Husch’s 2022 Dry Gewurztraminer, which consistently receives high marks from wine judges across the country. Aromas of ginger, apricot and orange blossom reveal bountiful acid on the palate, with lush notes of pear, lychee and mango. It’s a steal at only $18 a bottle.

Joseph Swan Vineyards, 2019 Gewürztraminer, Russian River Valley, Saralee’s Vineyard ($24): Legendary winemaker Rod Beglund and the legendary Saralee’s Vineyard join forces in this sigh-inducing dry gewürztraminer from the Russian River Valley. Highly aromatic with notes of lychee, sandalwood and spice, which pave the way for pineapple and bright acidity on the palate. Berglund likes to pair this one with tacos, but I think it’s equally worthy of the holiday table.

Husch, 2022 Dry Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Husch, 2022 Dry Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Marimar Estate, 2022 Godello, Russian River Valley, Don Miguel Vineyard ($44): Grown primarily in northwestern Spain and Portugal, Godello (go-day-yo) is a rare white grape that thrives in cool maritime climates, like Marimar Estate’s Don Miguel Vineyard, just 10 miles from the ocean. Medium in body, this Godello delivers aromas of green apple, Meyer lemon and white flowers with a layer of minerality and fresh acidity.

Orixe Sotelo, 2022 Nebola, Monterey County ($30): Inspired by the bright, unfussy, lightly sparkling wines of Getariako Txakolina in Spain’s Basque region, this lively blend of 57% arinto and 43% albariño from Orixe Sotelo winery in Sonoma exudes freshness and fun. The 2022 vintage is charged with aromas of lime zest, prickly pear and white tea, with pomelo and juicy white peach on the mineral-driven palate. There are some very exciting things coming from Orixe Sotelo, and this wine is no exception.

Pennyroyal Farm, 2022 PinoTrio, Anderson Valley ($33): A Best of Class winner at the 2023 North Coast Wine Challenge, this unexpected blend of pinot blanc, pinot noir and pinot gris was a big hit among the judges, who marveled at the white wine’s floral sweet-pea aromas, nuances of quince and white peach and “long, sexy finish.” Without a doubt, this was one of my favorite white wines of 2023 and highly recommended to anyone who loves vibrant, fresh, aromatic white wines.

Pennyroyal Farms, 2022 PinoTrio Blanc Noir Gris, Anderson Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Pennyroyal Farms, 2022 PinoTrio Blanc Noir Gris, Anderson Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

2022 Seawolf, Fennel and Stone Sauvignon Blanc, Yorkville Highlands ($36): I have to include Seawolf Wines’ 2022 Fennel and Stone Sauvignon Blanc in our list of top wines, even though it’s sold out at the winery (the 2023 vintage will be released in February). It was one of the most remarkable wines I tasted in 2023, and one of the best sauvignon blancs I’ve ever had. Set a reminder to purchase a bottle of this popular Yorkville Highlands gem that has loads of exotic white flowers, passion fruit and lime zest, with a glossy texture and racy finish.

Unti Vineyards, 2022 Bianco Del Campo, Dry Creek Valley ($28): A harmonious Italian-varietal quartet of Vermentino, Fiano, Biancolella and Falanghina join forces in Unti Vineyards 2022 Bianco Del Campo, with each grape showcasing its ability to retain great acidity at peak ripeness. Fermented and aged in stainless steel and concrete, with no malolactic fermentation to preserve freshness and zip.

BONUS: Value wines under $20

Recommended by Barry Herbst, Bottle Barn wine buyer, Santa Rosa

Barry Herbst, wine director at Bottle Barn, holds bottles of Trecini Prosecco Extra Dry, imported from France, and Dibon Cava Brut Seleccion from Spain in the store. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat file)
Barry Herbst, wine director at Bottle Barn, holds bottles of Trecini Prosecco Extra Dry, imported from France, and Dibon Cava Brut Seleccion from Spain in the store. (Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat file)

Balletto Vineyards, 2021 Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley ($16): Pinot gris continues to be one of the best, if not the best, value for domestic white wine in the store. There is no better example than this delicious pinot gris from Balletto, one of the few wineries that are still cultivating this variety in the Russian River Valley. This wine is fermented and aged for six months sur lie (on the lees) in stainless steel. The resulting wine is a beautiful juxtaposition of fresh, bright floral elements with a concentrated and complex mouth feel. A wonderful choice with smoked trout, chicken marbella or coconut curry soup.

Chalk Hill, 2021 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($18): In the ever-growing portfolio of wineries that Bill Foley has put together, Chalk Hill seems to me a little bit overlooked and underrated. This 2021 Sonoma Coast pinot noir is a perfect example. Not flashy and ripe like many of the $60 and $70 pinots in the area, this wine is silky, aromatic and very classically made. It’s loaded with raspberry and cherry flavors followed by a nicely structured mid-palate and a round pleasant finish that lingers for a long time. A textbook example of the Sonoma Coast AVA.

Head High, 2022 Chardonnay, Sonoma County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Head High, 2022 Chardonnay, Sonoma County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Cline Family Cellars, 2022 Viognier, North Coast ($14): With the vast majority of domestic Viognier now selling for north of $25, this version from Cline Family Cellars really stands out as a terrific bargain. It gives the taster all the components they have come to love about Viognier: super floral aromas of tropical fruits and loads of pineapple, apricot and mandarin orange. On the palate, the wine is very light on its feet and far from cloying, as many Viogniers can be. The finish is clean and long. Overall a very complete wine.

Head High, 2022 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($14): This label was founded by legendary entrepreneur and vigneron Bill Price III. Price is also a partner in Kistler, Gary Farrell and Three Sticks wineries and owns Gap’s Crown Vineyard. This particular wine has an uncanny ability to express the tropical richness chardonnay can offer, but without intense buttery or oaky flavors. It is beautifully aromatic with crisp apple-like flavors and a very smooth, elegant finish. It is almost impossible to find chardonnay of this caliber from Sonoma County for less than $25.

Miro, 2020 Cuvée Sasha, Mendocino County ($19): Veteran Sonoma County winemaker Miro Tcholakov is locally known as a master of petite sirah, which he crafts for his own label as well as for the La Storia and Trentadue labels. However, the real sleeper in the large catalog of wines he makes is this delicious Cuvee Sasha red blend. It is primarily grenache with the balance being mostly syrah and some petite sirah as well as zinfandel. This is the vinous equivalent of comfort food, a hearty, substantial wine that also maintains delicacy and balance. A beautiful red fruit nose with flavors on the palate reminiscent of dried fruits and cranberry. There is a nice grip to the wine without excess tannins. This one can handle pretty substantial cuisine; short ribs, lamb stew and pork vindaloo come to mind.

Pedroncelli, 2022 Mother Clone Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($16): This is another wine that consistently cleans house at all the wine competitions. While many of their neighbors continue to raise prices to $30, $40 and $50 a bottle, the Pedroncelli family has held tight on pricing for years. The Mother Clone zinfandel is their flagship label for good reason. It delivers classic blackberry, pepper and ripe varietally correct zinfandel flavors. All in all, a very reliable wine.

Quivira Vineyards, 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County (Quivira Vineyards)
Quivira Vineyards, 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County (Quivira Vineyards)

Quivira Vineyards, 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($16): For anyone who has visited this property, it’s hard to imagine Quivira can produce a wine this reasonably priced. The farming is second to none. They use many biodynamic practices and are organically certified. Attention to detail is equally high when it comes to the winemaking. Hugh Chapelle is one of the most respected winemakers in the region. Year after year, he puts together this remarkable sauvignon blanc that checks all the boxes. Aromas of fresh white flowers and freshly cut grass are the first impression. On the palate, the wine is perfectly balanced with elements of citrus, mineral and pear. Everything you want in a sauvignon blanc and more.

Rodney Strong, 2022 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($17): Each year we see fewer rosés being made from pinot noir, especially with the Sonoma Coast designation. This is a function of the increase in cost each year for Sonoma County pinot, which makes it all the more remarkable that Rodney Strong can put out such a high-quality rosé of pinot in pretty large quantity. Year after year, it wins gold or higher at all the most important wine competitions. This year’s version is bright, crisp and perfectly balanced. Light on its feet but not short on flavor. A wine equally well-suited to spicy Asian cuisine or salmon tartare.

Westerhold, 2018 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($16): A rich, satisfying pinot noir from winemaker Russell Bevan, who has made multiple 100-point wines. This has beautiful aromatics with a deeply concentrated palate of red fruits, clove and Christmas spice. The finish is very long and persistent with a nice touch of French oak. Could easily sell for $25 to $30.

Wild Hog Vineyard, 2017 Pinot Noir, Fort Ross-Seaview ($19): Daniel Schoenfeld has been quietly farming his far-west Sonoma Coast property since 1977. In 1983, the property became certified organic, and in 1990 Schoenfeld opened a winery on the property. His estate pinot noir is a screaming deal when you consider some of his closest neighbors in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA are Marcassin, Peter Michael, Hirsch Flowers and Wayfarer, all who sell their wines for well north of $50. This estate pinot comes from a 5-acre plot between Cazadero and Fort Ross. The wine is a brilliant example of the AVA. Fresh aromas with hints of forest floor and cola. The flavors are perfectly in balance and loaded with raspberry, cherry and plum. The finish is soft and earthy. A very satisfying wine.

About Barry Herbst: Barry has more than three decades of experience in the wine industry, ranging from sommelier and wine shop owner to high-level retail sales and private cellar acquisitions. He was raised in Southern California, where he earned his stripes in some of LA’s most celebrated restaurants, among them Chinois On Main and Angelini Osteria. Most recently, Barry was general manager of Rare Wine Co. in Sonoma and worked with Soutirage and Bounty Hunter Rare Wine & Spirits in Napa Valley. Currently, he is the wine buyer for Bottle Barn in Santa Rosa, a 15,000-square-foot superstore with “arguably the largest and finest selection of fine wines north of San Francisco.”

How Barry came up with his list: “I focused primarily on small to medium-size wineries that are generally family-owned and make wines that are perennial best-sellers at Bottle Barn. In addition, I tried to have a diverse selection of varietals and blends, as it would be easy to just do all fan favorites like zinfandel and pinot noir only.”

Rosé

Recommended by Debra Del Fiorentino, wine judge and owner of Wine & Spirit Competitions Management & Production, Petaluma

Debra Del Fiorentino, wine judge and owner of Wine & Spirit Competitions Management & Production (Debra Del Fiorentino)
Debra Del Fiorentino, wine judge and owner of Wine & Spirit Competitions Management & Production (Debra Del Fiorentino)

Balletto, 2023 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($25): Dusty strawberry flavor, with citrus peel and hints of watermelon. Crisp and clean. Fabulous structure and a long, elegant finish.

Brown Estate, 2022 House of Brown Rosé, Lodi ($20): Fun blend. Highly aromatic; floral, peaches and cream. Very well-made.

Carol Shelton, 2023 Wild Thing Rendezvous Rosé, Mendocino County ($20): Wild strawberries and spice. Great fruit. Very stylish. Clean fruit balance. Superb wine making! The 2023 vintage will roll out soon and may be available in some stores now.

Imagery Estate Winery, 2022 Aleatico Rosé, Sonoma Valley ($32): Strawberry Fields Forever. Very bright and vibrant. Jazzy; it wakes you up. Very complex and balanced.

Navarro Vineyards, 2022 Rose of Sangiovese, Mendocino ($25): Sweet and tart, with Meyer lemon and tangerine. Good complexity. Arctic strawberry on the nose. Nice viscosity and a lingering finish. Well done.

Carol Shelton, 2022 Wild Thing Rendezvous Rosé, Mendocino County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Carol Shelton, 2022 Wild Thing Rendezvous Rosé, Mendocino County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Paradise Ridge, 2022 Bride’s Blush Rosé, Russian River Valley ($32): Aromatic. Lean, clean and fresh. Hints of raspberry. Well-balanced and vibrant. Fills the moth. Very nicely made.

Pennyroyal Farm, 2022 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($28): Fresh and bright. Rose petals, strawberry notes and a beautiful nose. This wine really delivers quality.

Pleiades, 2022 Rosé of Sangiovese, Mendocino ($22): Lemongrass, rose petals. A firm palate and a lingering finish.

Rodney Strong, 2022 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($30): Hits of peach, pear and strawberry, going into dried cherries. Crisp and easy-drinking. Wonderfully balanced and well-structured.

Sonoma-Cutrer, 2022 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($20): Zesty, fresh and clean. Balanced with a long, crisp finish.

About Debra Del Fiorentino: Born and raised in San Francisco, Debra began her journey into the world of food and wine with Vita Buona (“To the Good Life”), a gourmet food store in Marin County, where she opened and owned two locations. Before long, that business shifted to become The Big Event, a catering and event-production company. Around that time, Debra began studying wine more intensely and attended the Culinary Institute of America’s wine program in St. Helena. She is a Wine & Spirit Education Trust Level 3 sommelier, certified specialist of wine and certified wine professional. In 2011, Debra founded Wine & Spirit Competitions Management & Production, which owns and operates 13 competitions across the wine and spirits spectrum, including The Press Democrat North Coast Wine Challenge, Sonoma County Harvest Challenge, Sunset International Wine Competition and Experience Rosé. Debra is the chief wine and spirits judge at these competitions, except the North Coast Wine Challenge.

How Debra made her list: “I evaluate by first the sight, by the color of the wine. Second, the nose. Third, I confirm the flavor with the nose. Then viscosity, fruit, acid balance and lastly, the finish of the wine. I judge objectively, not subjectively.”

Russian River Valley pinot noir

Recommended by Peg Melnik, wine critic at The Press Democrat

Blue Farm, 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Laceroni Vineyard (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Blue Farm, 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Laceroni Vineyard (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Blue Farm, 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Laceroni Vineyard ($85): Weighted to red fruit, this pinot noir is sassy. Cranberry, raspberry and pomegranate ride on crisp acid. Feisty.

Dutton Goldfield, 2021 Pinot Noir, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, Emerald Ridge Vineyard ($74): This bold pinot noir makes an impression with its concentrated fruit and tap dance of spice. It has aromas and flavors of blueberry, cedar and cracked black pepper. It’s balanced, with crisp acidity and a lingering finish. Smart.

Emeritus Vineyards, 2020 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($48): Great core of fruit coupled with earthy, savory notes. Layered flavors of cherry, mushroom, mineral and pepper pop. Top-rate.

Freeman, 2021 Pinot Noir, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, KR Ranch ($62): A refreshing pinot noir with crisp acid. It’s a touch earthy, with tangy red fruit of Bing cherry and pomegranate. Pitch-perfect balance. Striking.

Gary Farrell, 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($50): Buoyed by crisp acid, this complex pinot noir has aromas and flavors of red raspberry, black raspberry and cassis. Elegant and refreshing, it finishes crisp. Spot-on.

J. Bucher, 2021 Opa’s Block Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Bucher Vineyard ($75): A layered pinot noir with notes of strawberry, pomegranate and cedar. Has depth and great structure. Lovely.

Kosta Browne, 2018 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Kosta Browne, 2018 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Kosta Browne, 2018 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($165): What makes this pinot noir a standout is its depth of flavors — zesty strawberry, rhubarb and cranberry, with an undercurrent of spice. Well-crafted.

Lombardi, 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Martaella Vineyard ($68): High-toned fruit of cranberry and pomegranate play up front with savory notes in the background. Balanced, with bright acidity. Nice length.

Merry Edwards, 2021 Georganne Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($70): Like a black panther, this pinot noir is sleek. It has gorgeous fruit of raspberry, with a high-toned note of pomegranate. It’s impressive.

Paul Mathew Vineyards, 2021 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($48): Lush texture with aromas and flavors of raspberry and cherry. Buoyed by crisp acidity, this pinot noir has a tangy cherry finish. Bravo.

Pinot noir from other regions

Recommended by Peg Melnik, wine critic at The Press Democrat

Alma de Cattleya, 2022 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County ($35): A refreshing pinot noir with bright acidity, this wine has high-toned fruit of cherries and raspberries, with a kiss of vanilla. Winemaker Bibiana González Rave grew up in Colombia, trained as a winemaker in France and then came to the United States, where she founded her brand in 2014.

Benovia, 2020 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, Cohn Vineyard (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Benovia, 2020 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, Cohn Vineyard (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Benovia, 2020 Pinot Noir, Cohn Vineyard, Sonoma County ($100): This complex pinot noir has intrigue, with notes of Bing cherry, mineral, savory herbs and cracked black pepper. The flagship wine is from the winery’s oldest vineyard, celebrating its 50-year milestone this year. Vintners Joe Anderson, Mary Dewane and Mike Sullivan (who doubles as the winemaker) pamper the Cohn Vineyard and consider it their muse.

Chev, 2021 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills ($80): Aromas of raspberry, cranberry and rhubarb follow through to the palate. With pitch-perfect balance and a supple texture, this is an impressive pinot noir. It’s not surprising when you learn Michael Browne is behind it. The co-founder of Kosta Browne winery, Browne has a talent for crafting cool-climate pinot noir and chardonnay. Browne became an overnight success in 2011 when Kosta Browne snagged the No. 1 spot on Wine Spectator’s list of Top 100 Wines.

Clarice, 2022 Pinot Noir, Rosella’s Vineyard ($98): This lovely pinot has gorgeous notes of raspberry, cranberry and cracked black pepper. Adam Lee, co-founder of Siduri Wines, is the vintner/winemaker behind Clarice Wine Co. Siduri showed Lee’s chops with pinot noir; the White House selected it for its holiday parties in 2013. And the Clarice pinot noir shows Lee still has an impressive prowess with this varietal.

Marimar Estate, 2019 Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Dona Margarita Vineyard ($58): This pinot is layered with flavors of raspberry, mineral and forest floor, and it has a lingering finish. The grapes in this bottling were groomed at an elevation of 600 feet, in a vineyard with cool breezes and drifting fog from the Pacific Ocean 6 miles away. Mas Cavalls means horse farm in Catalan, a nod to vintner Marimar Torres’ heritage.

Moret-Brealynn, 2022 Stray Dogs Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($50): This voluptuous pinot noir has a supple texture and flavors of raspberry, pomegranate and mineral. It’s a knock-out. Moret Brealynn Chavez said she aims to inspire others in the wine industry as a millennial winemaker and Mexican American woman.

Naidu, 2021 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Naidu, 2021 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Naidu, 2021 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($70): High-toned fruit and crisp acidity make this pinot noir a standout. It has aromas and flavors of cranberry, raspberry and savory herbs. An immigrant from India, vintner Raghni Naidu said immigrant women aren’t likely candidates to be vintners but that the onus is on her to succeed in wine. “I’m part of this picture,” she said. “I belong here.”

Sangiacomo, 2021 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($65): This pinot’s magic is its depth of flavors. It’s edgy with generous fruit and a supple texture. With notes of Bing cherry, leather and forest floor, it’s impressive. The Sangiacomo family is a pillar of Sonoma County, with generations here stretching back to 1927. A dynasty of growers, the family decided to take a leap and create an inaugural label with the 2016 vintage.

Sangiacomo, 2021 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Sangiacomo, 2021 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Theopolis Vineyards, 2022 Pinot Noir, Yorkville Highlands, Mendocino County ($48): This pinot has a whirlwind of flavors. Cranberry, strawberry and sandalwood ride on crisp acid. Vintner Theodora Lee’s dream of owning a vineyard took root back in the 1980s. After saving money for two decades, she bought 20 acres of sheep pasture in 2001 in Anderson Valley and began developing her vineyard. “As one of the few African American women who owns her own vineyard, I hope to inspire others to become vintners,” she said.

Vision Cellars, 2020 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($45): A well-crafted pinot noir that’s sassy with spice and tangy fruit. It has high-toned notes of pomegranate, cranberry and rhubarb, with an undercurrent of cracked black pepper. Producing a brand that turns heads is this Black winemaker’s modus operandi for championing diversity in the wine industry. Born the son of a Texas moonshiner, Mac McDonald tasted Burgundy at age 12 and was transfixed. The depth of flavors in the wine made him realize winemaking was his calling.

Zinfandel

Recommended by Paul Coker, director of beverage at Montage Healdsburg

Montage Healdsburg director of beverage/sommelier Paul Coker (John Burgess / The Press Democrat file)
Montage Healdsburg director of beverage/sommelier Paul Coker (John Burgess / The Press Democrat file)

A. Rafanelli, 2021 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($75): Fourth-generation winemaker Shelly Rafanelli made the hard choice to skip the 2020 vintage entirely, and we’ve been waiting for the 2021 vintage from the leading family in Dry Creek Valley zinfandel. It’s worth the wait, with the family style reaching even higher peaks as she continues to push the ceiling of quality in Dry Creek Valley, just as her predecessors did.

Baca, 2019 Home Base Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($40): Baca is the newest project from Kathryn Hall and purely focuses on the nuance that zinfandel can provide across appellations and styles. The Home Base zinfandel carries racing acidity and precision while maintaining a beautiful melange of berry fruit.

Bella, 2017 Collier Falls Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($48): From a higher elevation and more sheltered site in Dry Creek Valley comes this structured gem from a little-known producer. The spice and secondary aromas take me back to the zinfandels of 20-plus years ago.

Dry Creek Vineyard, 2021 Old Vine Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 2021 Old Vine Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Dry Creek Vineyard, 2021 Old Vine Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($45): The very first old-vine zinfandel is still one of the best, with Tim Bell remaining at the helm for more than a decade now. He brings a warmth and textural component to the wines while keeping the structures that have me yearning for 20-plus-year-old Dry Creek Vineyard old-vine zinfandel.

Lambert Bridge, 2021 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Maple Vineyards ($70): Jennifer Higgins and her cellar team bring a vibrancy to their wines across the board, and that shows in their Maple Vineyards zinfandel. Dark compote and jam flavors retain a brightness that is unique, with lifted aromatics including dusted pepper and vanilla.

Mauritson, 2021 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($45): Clay Mauritson grew up farming zinfandel with his family and worked at Ravenswood in the halcyon days of the late ’90s before starting his own label. Current winemaker Emma Kudritzki Hall has added a level of precision and detail, which is readily apparent in their Dry Creek appellate with a combination of Rockpile and valley fruit.

Mauritson, 2021 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Mauritson, 2021 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Pedroncelli, 2020 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Bushnell Vineyard ($38): Tasting at Pedroncelli shows you the breadth of styles that can be achieved in Dry Creek Valley, yet each bottle is a testament to the overall style. My personal favorite is the Bushnell Vineyard zinfandel, which has a purity of fruit across a spectrum of colors and a lighter body that makes it far too easy to drink.

Ridge, 2021 East Bench Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($45): Unique in the Ridge portfolio is the 100% zinfandel East Bench bottling from “baby” vines that are just 21 years old. The fruit profile is softer, with red tones of raspberry and strawberry while maintaining a bright core wrapped with integrated tannins.

Ridge, 2021 Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($55): Only the best of the best fruit from the first Ridge zinfandel vineyard make it into winemaker Shauna Rosenblum’s field blend where she brings her avant-garde style to the icon. There’s a candied aspect to the berry fruit profile, with savory herbs and pepper layered in.

Williamson Wines, 2022 Yoakim Bridge Scandal, Dry Creek Valley ($57): The Williamsons acquired the Yoakim Bridge property just a couple years ago, and applying Sam’s Bordelaise style to old-vine zinfandel is very exciting to me (even if they call it a scandal). Layers of tobacco and hard spice carry equal footing with blackberry and prickly boysenberry flavors.

About Paul Coker: Paul has been in the wine industry for more than 15 years, working as a wine director and sommelier and now as the director of beverage at Montage Healdsburg. He began his career as a buyer for Amazing Grapes Wine Store in Orange County before moving into restaurants and hospitality, where he held leadership positions at The Cellar, Studio at Montage Laguna Beach, Michael Mina’s Stonehill Tavern at St. Regis and SRC Restaurant Group, all in Orange County, and Canlis in Seattle. Paul played an integral role in restaurant teams, resulting in seven Wine Spectator Grand Awards and a James Beard Award for Best Wine Service in America. He was also a finalist in the Best USA Sommelier competition in 2019 and won the Guild of Sommeliers Online Wine Knowledge Competition in 2020. Coker holds a diploma from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust and is an Advanced Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers.

How Paul made his list: “If you are remembering the rocket-fuel zinfandels of 10 to 15 years ago, maybe that’s why you haven’t checked back in. Well, the time to look toward Dry Creek Valley zinfandel is now. It’s not a renaissance, because producers like Dry Creek Vineyard, A. Rafanelli and Pedroncelli have kept the faith the whole time. Relative newcomers like Mauritson and Baca are also creating a buzz with a new generation of wine drinkers.

While zinfandel is often perceived as a bulk wine grape, Dry Creek Valley zinfandels are too few and too highly sought-after to turn into plonk. These winegrowers and winemakers provide a window into the story of where zinfandel was grown, a story of its nuance, elegance and ability to age or provide hedonistic pleasure in its youth. It is no surprise Dry Creek Valley leads the charge in contemporary zinfandel styles. The vines can be more than 100 years old. Hot summer sunshine ripens the Mediterranean zinfandel. Frigid water flowing from Lake Sonoma through the valley moderates the temperature and extends hang time. All of this provides an idyllic home for both zinfandel and discerning connoisseurs looking for world-class wines.”

Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon

Recommended by Peg Melnik, wine critic at The Press Democrat

Chappellet, 2019 Hideaway Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($175): Weighted to black fruit, this tasty cabernet has aromas and flavors of ripe blackberry, mineral and clove. A second generation of the Chappellet family is now at the helm of the winery founded in 1967, bottling fruit from Napa Valley’s esteemed Pritchard Hill.

Freemark Abbey, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Freemark Abbey, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Freemark Abbey, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($75): This bottling offers a twist on the classic cabernet, with a streak of high-toned pomegranate running through its rich black fruit. It also has notes of mineral, cedar and leather in the mix. Jackson Family Wines now owns Freemark Abbey, which was founded in 1886 and was one of the first cabernet producers in Napa Valley.

Goldschmidt Vineyards, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Plus, Oakville, Napa Valley, Game Ranch ($150): This cabernet has gorgeous aromas and flavors of black cherry, plum and vanilla, and it has pitch-perfect balance. In 1998, co-vintners Nick and his wife, Yolyn Goldschmidt, created their namesake brand. Nick continues to travel farther afield as a flying winemaker who crafts wine on several continents.

Hess Collection, 2013 Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($90): This 10-year-old cabernet reveals nuances that come from oak — toast, cedar and a hint of caramel — with fruit that’s still surprisingly vibrant. This intense wine has concentrated flavors of blackberry and black cherry, with grapes that were groomed on the steep slopes of Mount Veeder.

Newton, 2019 The Puzzle Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Newton, 2019 The Puzzle Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Kelly Fleming, 2019 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($185): This layered cabernet has notes of black cherry, plum and cedar. With firm tannins and nice length, it’s striking. Vintner Kelly Fleming said she’s as comfortable with a forklift as an adding machine and has made inroads in the wine world with a background in the restaurant industry.

Louis Martini, 2019 Lot 1 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($250): This striking cabernet is edgy with a dance of spice and concentrated fruit. It has aromas and flavors of blueberry, cassis and cracked black pepper. The Lot 1 bottling comes from a long tradition at Louis Martini of bottling the creme de la creme of fruit. Louis P. Martini would taste through aging lots in the cellar and pinpoint the most exceptional. The 2013 Lot No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded a perfect 100-point score by Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate.

Newton, 2019 The Puzzle Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($135): This savory cabernet has notes of Bing cherry, cranberry and tobacco. This high-altitude cabernet, with grapes groomed at 500 to 1,600 feet above sea level, no doubt benefited from its perch where it could take in the valley’s cool, foggy nights.

Spottswoode, 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Spottswoode, 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Pride Mountain Vineyards, 2020 Vintner Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($102): This cabernet’s magic is its intensity. It has concentrated flavors of blackberry, leather and cedar, with a hint of caramel on the finish. It clearly benefits from the winery’s sun-kissed vines that bask on a mountain top above the fog line.

Shafer, 2019 Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Stag’s Leap District, Napa Valley ($375): This impressive cabernet has it all — depth, complexity and balance. It’s well-crafted, with layered notes of raspberry, mineral and cracked black pepper. Winemaker Elias Fernandez once said his goal is to uncover a wine’s beauty, like Michelangelo carving an image from a block of marble. The winemaker was celebrated at the White House in 2003 as a leader in the Latino community.

Spottswoode, 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($255): This cabernet is drop-dead gorgeous. Aromas of raspberry, cherry and mineral follow through to the palate. The winery has been growing grapes since 1972 and making wine since 1982. Its holistic approach to farming is clearly working in its favor and shows up in the bottle. This cabernet is remarkable, a true standout.

Uncommon varietals

Recommended Sarah Doyle, wine writer at The Press Democrat

Aeris, 2018 Bianco, Centennial Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma County ($39): Before Rhys Vineyard owner Kevin Harvey planted Carricante for his Aeris label on a ridge west of Lake Sonoma, the white grape was only readily found on the volcanic slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. But with its vibrant acidity, intoxicating aromatics and complexity that improves with age, Harvey believes, it could be California’s next superstar grape. A truly remarkable wine.

Birdhorse Wines, 2022 Valdiguié, Suisun Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Birdhorse Wines, 2022 Valdiguié, Suisun Valley (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Birdhorse Wines, 2022 Valdiguié, Suisun Valley ($34): A red grape grown primarily in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France, Valdiguié is a favorite varietal for Birdhorse winemakers/owners Corrine Rich and Katie Rouse, who source the fruit for their wine from a 40-year-old organic vineyard in Suisun Valley AVA in Solano County. It’s a lively wine with loads of juicy raspberry, blueberry, black currant and mouthwatering acidity. A worthwhile varietal to get to know.

Cruse Wine Co., 2022 Sparkling St. Laurent, Carneros, Ricci Vineyard ($32): Native to Austria, St. Laurent is a rare red grape that’s nearly nonexistent in the United States. The exception is a parcel at Ricci Vineyards in Los Carneros, where Cruse Wine Co. sources fruit for their pétillant naturel-style St. Laurent, a peachy gold sparkler with fruity aromas of apricot and cream followed by cantaloupe and fresh basil on the palate and a slightly off-dry finish.

Filomena Wine Co., 2022 Cabernet Pfeffer, Paso Robles Estrella District, High Camp Vineyard ($24): From Kivelstadt Cellars winemaker Luke Nio comes this juicy cabernet Pfeffer under his personal wine label, Filomena Wine Co. Exceedingly rare, cabernet Pfeffer is recognized for its bright, peppery characteristics with notes of raspberry, cherry and spice. Like many cabernet Pfeffers, Filomena’s version is ultra-drinkable when lightly chilled.

Idlewild, 2022 Arneis, Yorkville Highlands, Lost Hills Ranch ($36): Native to Italy’s Piedmont region, the white Arneis grape is nicknamed “little rascal” due to its fussiness in the vineyard, with acidity that can disappear overnight. This delicious version is produced with fruit from Lost Hills Ranch in the Yorkville Highlands, where cool Pacific Ocean air helps with acid retention. Aromas of jasmine tea, pear and lemon balm, with citrus and a subtle almond finish.

Preston Farm & Winery, 2021 Nero d’Avola, Dry Creek Valley ($42): The most widely planted grape in Sicily, Nero d’Avola is recognized for producing two distinct styles of red wine — one fresh and juicy, the other dark and dense. Preston’s 2021 vintage is the former, with bright flavors of raspberry and cherry, zippy acidity and an agreeable mouthfeel from 14 months in neutral oak.

Waits-Mast, 2022 White Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Filigreen Farm (Waits-Mast)
Waits-Mast, 2022 White Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Filigreen Farm (Waits-Mast)

Ridge Vineyards, 2022 Vermentino/Falanghina, Alder Springs, Mendocino County ($35): The white Falanghina grape is rarely found outside Italy, where it’s believed to have origins in ancient Rome. In California, small pockets can be found at sites like Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino County, where Ridge Vineyards sources fruit for its Falanghina/Vermentino blend. In 2022, frost damaged much of the Falanghina crop; but while the blend is more Vermentino-heavy than in past years, it’s no less delicious. Honeysuckle and orange blossom on the nose, fresh acidity and flavors of white peach and fresh almond.

Ryme Cellars, 2022 Fiano, Russian River Valley, Rancho Coda ($38): Dating back more than 2,000 years, Fiano is considered one of the finest white wines of Italy, where wine historians believe it was cultivated in ancient Rome. Ryme Cellars sources their Fiano from Rancho Coda in the Russian River Valley, where it thrives during the warm days and cool, foggy nights. Notes of juicy white peach, freshly zested citrus and salty minerality lead to bracing acidity on the finish.

Scribe, 2022 Estate Mission, Sonoma Valley ($48): The first cultivated European species in North America, the Mission grape was brought to Mexico from Spain during the 16th century. Only about 400 acres of the red grape remain planted in North America, including two acres at Scribe Winery in Sonoma, where they produce both a still and sparkling version of the wine. Both are delicious and sell out quickly, popular for their wild rusticity, bright fruit and spice. The 2022 vintage is sold out at the winery but still available at Bottle Barn in Santa Rosa for $40.

Waits-Mast, 2022 White Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Filigreen Farm ($42): Waits-Mast’s uncommon offering of white pinot noir is an unexpected delight. Produced with red pinot noir grapes, the wine is made by immediately removing the juice from the skins once the berries are pressed so it doesn’t retain color. The result is a pale-gold wine with aromas of Meyer lemon, white nectarine and a hint of cumin, with a fleshy palate of mandarin orange zest and electric acidity.

Rhone wines and BONUS: 6 Italian-style wines

Recommended by Chris Gaither, Master Sommelier and owner of Ungrafted and GluGlu, San Francisco

Master Sommelier Chris Gaither and his wife, Rebecca Fineman, run Ungrafted restaurant and GluGlu wine bar in San Francisco.  (Ungrafted)
Master Sommelier Chris Gaither and his wife, Rebecca Fineman, run Ungrafted restaurant and GluGlu wine bar in San Francisco. (Ungrafted)

Arnot-Roberts, 2021 Syrah, Petaluma Gap, Clary Ranch ($65): Hauntingly delicious, cool-climate syrah with floral aromatics and a savory finish from one of my favorite producers.

Bedrock, 2021 Evangelho Heritage Blend, Contra Costa ($40): I love how Morgan Twain Peterson works with very old vineyard sites to make supple and amazing wines of distinction. This one comes from a vineyard that’s more than 125 years old!

Brown Estate, 2019 Petite Sirah, Napa Valley ($60): It’s like everything this family touches turns to gold! Dark, juicy gobs of lipsmacking fruit line every sip of this petite sirah. With a super small production, it’s best to grab it while you can.

Darioush, 2019 Signature Shiraz, Napa Valley ($88): Do you like unapologetically fruit-driven and powerful wines? This is for you! Darioush does their wines in a very big style.

Bedrock Wine Co., 2021 Evangelho Vineyard Heritage Red Wine, Contra Costa County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Bedrock Wine Co., 2021 Evangelho Vineyard Heritage Red Wine, Contra Costa County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Jolie-Laide, 2021 Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre, Mendocino, Alder Springs ($65): I love the aromatic, supple, complete wines from Scott and Jenny Schultz. Try for yourself!

Joseph Swan Vineyards, 2019 Grenache Blanc, Russian River Valley, Catie’s Corner ($38): Citrusy and waxy white wine perfect for your next fall gathering. Made by a historic estate in a natural style.

Leo Steen, 2021 Rosé of Grenache, Sonoma Valley, Rose Ranch ($25): A fantastic afternoon sipper!

Porter Creek, 2020 Viognier, Russian River Valley, Hayley Marie Vineyard ($46): Wine professionals blind taste this and say, “I can’t believe it’s not Condrieu!” One of my favorite interpretations of viognier in California, made by winemaker Alex Davis.

Radio-Coteau, 2019 Las Colinas Syrah, Sonoma Coast ($60): Age-worthy cool-climate syrah made by Eric Sussman, one of the first Sonoma County producers I had a chance to visit when I was getting started. I’m still a big fan after all these years.

BONUS: Italian-style wine

Carol Shelton, 2021 Barbera d’Oakley, Contra Costa County, Planchon Vineyard ($30): Carol Shelton is a winemaking legend with barbera. You have to try this fantastic value!

Houndstooth, 2017 Barbera, Sierra Foothills, Rorick Vineyard, ($32): Sommelier Kelli White, an authority on Napa Valley wine history, makes a delicious barbera with her husband, Scott Brenner. Try it before it sells out!

Martha Stoumen, 2019 Nero d'Avola, Mendocino County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Martha Stoumen, 2019 Nero d'Avola, Mendocino County (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Martha Stoumen, 2019 Nero d’Avola, Mendocino County ($40): Natural, flavorful, delicious Nero d’Avola made by Martha Stoumen, a trailblazer in the natural wine scene known for awesome wines with character.

Massican, 2022 Annia White Wine, California ($32): Dan Petroski fashioned a textured and aromatic white wine from Riblla Gialla, Tocai Friulano and chardonnay to wow your tastebuds.

Raft Wines, 2020 Sangiovese, Butte County, California ($28): Light bodied, fresh sangiovese perfect for your next fall picnic.

Ryme Cellars, 2021 Vermentino, Carneros, Las Brisas Vineyard ($36): Ryan and Megan Glaab make delicious Italian-inspired wines from vineyards all over the North and Central coasts. This single-vineyard Vermentino is refreshing and delightful.

About Chris Gaither: Chris and his wife, Rebecca Fineman, run two businesses in San Francisco: Ungrafted restaurant and bottle shop, which sells wines from all over the world and features a menu by chef David Aviles of two-Michelin-starred Acadia in Chicago, and GluGlu, located a few blocks away. GluGlu, says Chris, is “a fun and lively wine bar serving Basque-inspired tapas with off-the-beaten-path beverages.” Chris and Rebecca are both Master Sommeliers, too. “We love to teach classes to consumers and trade professionals and spread our passion for all things liquid. That is when we’re not running around as frantically fun parents to our two amazing daughters!”

How Chris made his list: “I chose the wines in no particular order based on how much they make me smile. I look for personality, depth of flavor, uniqueness and, above all else, deliciousness.”

BONUS: Bordeaux-style wine

Recommended by Chris Sawyer, sommelier, wine educator and consultant, Sonoma County

Chris Sawyer, sommelier at Gravenstein Grill, tastes a pinot noir during the first day of judging at the 11th annual North Coast Wine Challenge at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa in April. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat file)
Chris Sawyer, sommelier at Gravenstein Grill, tastes a pinot noir during the first day of judging at the 11th annual North Coast Wine Challenge at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa in April. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat file)

Ehret, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Knights Valley, Bavarian Lion Vineyards ($75): A hidden gem from Knights Valley. On the nose, the deep notes of crushed violets, wild berries and ripe blue fruits are underscored by hints of roasted espresso beans, tobacco, vanilla and cedar. As the wine expands on the palate, the lively flavors of blackberry, blueberry, cranberry and pomegranate are layered with notes of mineral, clove, baking spice and sweet oak. This bottling won gold at the 2023 North Coast Wine Challenge.

Flambeaux 2019 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley ($70): Rich, flavorful and well-crafted, this impressive cabernet sauvignon is made with estate fruit grown at 350 feet in the steep, densely forested area in the southern portion of Dry Creek Valley. In the glass, the unique aromas of ripe berries, fresh mountain herbs and cigar box lead to a balanced attack of deep, rich and vibrant flavors of black plum, cherry, cassis, currants and wild sage. A velvety texture, smooth tannins and a long finish.

Fritz, 2019 Malbec, Estate Reserve, Dry Creek Valley ($65): Ripe, elegant and tangy, with a lingering finish. This wonderful malbec is from 17-year-old vines grown at the Fritz Underground Winery near Cloverdale. In the glass, the dense aromas of red and black fruits, cassis, forest floor and savory spices lead to concentrated flavors of dark cherry, plum, blueberry, cardamom, clove and dark chocolate.

Goldschmidt Vineyards, 2019 Yoeman Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($75): Long-time Sonoma County winemaker Nick Goldschmidt considers himself the yoeman, or servant, of his family’s property north of Geyserville, where he maximizes the powerful aromas and flavors of the small block of noble vines planted on a unique mixture of compressed granite and clay. The rewards of this commitment are apparent in this impressive release from 2019, which features a steady stream of concentrated notes of dark fruits, minerals and allspice, plus great length.

Lang & Reed, 2021 California Cabernet Franc (Lang & Reed)
Lang & Reed, 2021 California Cabernet Franc (Lang & Reed)

Lang & Reed 2021 Cabernet Franc, North Coast ($45): The newest release from long-time cabernet Franc advocate John Skupny and the team at Lang & Reed in St. Helena. The main vineyards used in this North Coast offering are the T-bar-T Ranch in Alexander Valley and the high-elevation Quercus Ranch in Lake County. With perfumed fruit aromas on the nose, the leading flavors of dark cherry, blackberry, cranberry and currants are interwoven with notes of wild sage and allspice. Outstanding.

Laurel Glen Vineyard, 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain ($110): Full-bodied, youthful and seamless. The strengths of this brilliant 2018 cabernet from the east-facing slopes above Sonoma Valley include a well-crafted blend of dark cherry, wild berries, fresh mountain herbs, savory spices and a burst of bright acidity to lengthen the finish. The result is a wine that is remarkable now, as well as an impressive cellar selection.

Merriam, 2019 Estate Grown Merlot, Russian River Valley ($38): Crafted with sustainably farmed fruit cultivated at the Merriam family’s Windacre Vineyard, located on the northeast edge of Russian River Valley. This well-balanced wine opens with enchanting aromas of ripe berries, tree fruits and fresh herbs. On the palate, the abundant flavors of dark cherry, cranberry and black raspberry are underscored with notes of ripe figs, Mexican baking chocolate and roasted hazelnuts. Smooth, elegant and a delightful pairing with fish, grilled chicken or roasted duck.

Pride Mountain Vineyards, 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, 52% Sonoma County/48% Napa Valley ($82): To capture the power, elegance and finesse of grapes grown at the top of the Mayacamas Range, this flavorful new release is a brilliant blend of cabernet sauvignon and smaller portions of petite verdot, merlot and cabernet Franc grapes grown on the Sonoma County and Napa Valley sides of the Pride Mountain estate. Natural aromas and rich flavors of blackberry, dark plum, dried currants and wild sage. The firm tannins will become more supple as the wine develops in the glass. A high-elevation gem from the 2021 vintage.

Rodney Strong, 2018 Symmetry Red Wine, Sonoma County ($70): This remarkable Bordeaux-style blend of 79% cabernet sauvignon, 9% petit verdot, 6% malbec, 4% merlot and 2% cabernet Franc is made with high-quality fruit from the Rockaway, Alexander Crown, Brothers and Cooley Ranch estate properties owned by Rodney Strong Winery. Big, bold and bursting with ripe fruit aromas and layers of spice. On the palate, the deep, rich flavors of blackberry, red plum, cherry, fresh currants and dark chocolate are balanced with a plush texture, smooth tannins and a linger finish. Powerful, elegant and true vintage character in each sip. Gold winner at the 2023 North Coast Wine Challenge.

Thirty-Seven, 2019 The Hermit Reserve Red Wine, Petaluma Gap ($59): With a seductive deep-purple hue, this well-crafted blend of 60% cabernet Franc and 40% merlot will remind French-wine fans of the famous red wines made in the Loire Valley and the Right Bank of Bordeaux. After the wine opens up with lofty aromas of blue fruits, wild berries, fresh violets, lavender, tobacco, citrus peel and spice, the lush flavors of blackberry, raspberry, dark cherry are balanced with velvety texture, fine tannins and firm structure. Winner of a gold at the 2023 Sonoma County Harvest Fair.

About Chris Sawyer: Chris is an internationally renowned sommelier, wine educator, wine journalist and consultant. He travels the world following wine trends and participating as a judge in wine competitions. He has been featured in USAToday, national TV networks, National Geographic Traveler, Esquire and other national publications.

Sawyer is the recipient of many awards and industry honors, including being named multiple times as Best Sommelier in Sonoma County by readers in The Bohemian’s Best of the North Bay list. He is also the head sommelier at the Sonoma Harvest Wine Auction and has served as the wine director for Flavor! Napa Valley and the Telluride Wine Festival.

How Chris made his list: “The best way to assess wines starts with analyzing color, aromas, bouquet and flavors. The real core of what makes a wine great is experiencing the bliss of true varietal character, and an authentic sense of the site where the grapes are grown.”

Sarah Doyle, wine writer at The Press Democrat (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Sarah Doyle, wine writer at The Press Democrat (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)

Sarah Doyle, wine writer at The Press Democrat

In the mid 2000s, I took a part-time job in the Tablas Creek Winery tasting room in Paso Robles. That simple step sparked my love affair with wine. I’ve held many roles in the wine industry since, including marketing and communications, sales, hospitality and wine production for three harvests.

Writing about and discovering more about wine is my passion. Before joining The Press Democrat two years ago, I wrote about wine and spirits for more than 50 publications. My stories appeared in the New York Times, Washington Post, Boston Globe, Wine Enthusiast, Wine & Spirits, Forbes, Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure and many other publications.

In addition to writing about wine, beer and spirits at The Press Democrat, I’m a professional wine judge and hold a Wine & Spirit Education Trust Level 3 Award in Wine.

How I chose my wines for this year’s 100 Amazing Wines: Given the immense talent of our region’s winemakers, choosing just 10 wines for each list was not a simple feat. In the end, my goal was to highlight a range of remarkable wines that stood out for their quality, ingenuity, diversity and sheer deliciousness. My hope is that they inspire you to try something new.

I focused on aromatic white wines and uncommon varietals specifically. Aromatic white wines are recognized for their intense floral, fruity aromas, which are caused by a compound called terpenes. Surprisingly, this compound can also be found in flowers like citrus blossoms, roses, lavender and geraniums. My favorite dry, aromatic white wines lure you in with the seductive scent of blossoms, then awaken your palate with a rush of vibrant acidity.

As for uncommon varietals, in a wine region flooded with chardonnay, pinot noir and zinfandel, there is something refreshing about a winemaker producing uncommon varietals like Falanghina, Fiano and cabernet Pfeffer, grapes rarely grown in the United States. As winemaker Scott Schultz of Jolie-Laid Wines said, “You wouldn’t listen to the same music every day or eat the same food or drink the same drink. Why limit yourself to just a few grapes?” I agree.

Press Democrat, wine critic at The Press Democrat (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Press Democrat, wine critic at The Press Democrat (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)

Peg Melnik, wine critic for The Press Democrat

Ever since I studied it at UC Davis, I’ve been steadfast in my curiosity about wine, always wanting to learn more, with a book in one hand and a glass of wine in the other. In that time, I’ve learned that the wines crafted in our backyard rival the best across the globe, and how lucky we are for that. Winemakers here bottle their genius and their irrepressible spirit, along with their grapes. It’s truly an honor and a privilege to taste their wines.

For the past 25 years at The Press Democrat, I’ve covered all aspects of wine and am one of the inaugural judges in our annual North Coast Wine Challenge. With my Wine of the Week in The Press Democrat Feast and Wine section, I highlight the best wines in Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino Counties and beyond and tell the stories of the winemakers behind them.

How I evaluated wines for the 100 Amazing Wines list: I began by looking at brands I’ve chosen throughout the year as stand-outs in my blind wine tastings for the Wine of the Week. Then I looked for other labels of note, ones that have made noise with high marks and great recommendations. Throughout the process, I made sure this growing pool of wine I’m considering is crafted by a diverse group of winemakers. Then I reel in all these bottlings for a blind tasting.

I like to vet wines blind because they’re stripped of their fancy labeling and have to excel by virtue of their taste alone. Many criteria come in to play when I evaluate wine, but the two that are most compelling to me are complexity and balance. If a wine excels in those two areas, it’s likely to rise to the top.

I’m particularly fond of bubbly, which is why I chose to highlight sparkling wines in this special section (I love these wines so much an editor gave me the nickname “Bubbles” Melnik).

But all the wines that I’ve complied in my lists are extraordinary, and I encourage you to explore them. I created two lists of pinot noirs, one of wines solely from the Russian River Valley because so many of this varietal stand out in this American Viticultural Area.

And we also wanted to highlight the varietal that is Napa Valley’s strength, cabernet sauvignon. Many of Napa Valley cabernets have garnered international acclaim.