5 ways to enjoy leeks now before winter melts away

Leeks, with their elegant stalks and delicate flavors, are not necessarily a spring vegetable, though it seems they should be, so suited are they to other true harbingers of the season. Leeks and mustard make a happy culinary marriage. Add eggs and you have a spring extravaganza.

In reality, the leek harvest winds down as we move into spring, so if we want to enjoy them with other spring foods, we need to start soon. As summer approaches, those that remain in the ground bolt, producing gorgeous flowers that pack a wallop. One year, I picked a huge bouquet and put it in my room in a beautiful vase. At bedtime, my eyes began to water, as the leeks released their powerful aromas. I had to remove the bouquet and air out my bedroom before I could sleep.

Oops.

Enjoy leeks now and into April or early May, depending on how soon the weather heats up.

In California, especially along our coast, we often have leeks year round because there are so many microclimates. But their true seasons are fall and winter, when they are at their peak.

Leeks are alliums, relatives of garlic, shallots, onions, green onions, and chives. Like other alliums, they are low in calories and high in vitamins and micronutrients. They are a good source of Vitamin B6, Vitamin C, folacin, iron, and magnesium.

There have been beautiful leeks at our farmers markets in recent weeks. They are the perfect size, about as big around as a nickel.

The most important thing to understand when cooking with leeks is their tendency to trap dirt between their layers. Smaller leeks can usually be thoroughly cleaned whole, while large leeks often need to be cut in half lengthwise to get all the dirt out.

Today’s recipes put leeks center stage, with just a few supporting ingredients. But leeks are also outstanding as support players in pot roasts, braised lamb shanks, winter squash soups, and, of course, potato soups.

Poached Leeks

Makes 2 servings

Poached leeks with nothing more than salt and pepper make an outstanding side dish, ideal with roast chicken and sautéed Petrale sole and similar fish. They can also be dressed up in a variety of ways to create a first course or main course.

10 to 12 (1 ¼ pounds) leeks, about as big around as your thumb

Kosher salt

Trim the leeks, cutting off the roots and leaving no more than about 2 inches of dark green stems. Remove any yellow leaves.

Rinse the leeks under warm running water and ensure no dirt is still trapped between the layers. If there is, carefully cut the leeks in half lengthwise. Put them in a container that will hold them in a single layer and cover with warm water by about an inch. Agitate the water and turn the leeks to loosen any dirt. When the leeks appear clean, pour off the water, and rinse the leeks under cool water.

Put the leeks into a sauté pan that will hold them in a single layer, cover with water, and add about a tablespoon of salt. Set over high heat and, when the water boils, reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for 12 to 15 minutes, until the leeks are tender when pierced with a fork but not mushy.

Remove from the heat and use tongs to transfer to a colander to drain.

Serve as is, with salt and pepper alongside, dress with a favorite vinaigrette, or use in one of the recipes here.

Caesar-Inspired Poached Leeks

Makes 2 servings as a main dish, 4 as a side

The ingredients in a classic Caesar salad — garlic, anchovies, lemon, and cheese — flatter poached leeks in a delightful way. To mirror early spring and add more depth, I’ve added mustard to the dressing

Poached leeks, (see recipe above)

3 garlic cloves, crushed

3 or 4 anchovy fillets, drained

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Juice of 1 lemon, plus more as needed

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 ounce (¼ cup) grated Estero Gold, Vella Dry Jack, or Parmigiano-Reggiano

Freshly ground black pepper

Kosher salt

Trim and poach the leeks as described.

While the leeks cook, make the dressing. Put the garlic and anchovies into a wooden mortal and pestle, if you have one, otherwise use a food processor. Use the wooden pestle to crush together and grind into a paste. Add the egg yolk, mix well, and then stir in the mustard and lemon juice. Use a small whisk or fork to mix in the olive oil and fold in the cheese. Season generously with black pepper.

Taste the dressing. If it is bit flat, add two or three generous pinches of salt, squeeze some lemon juice on top of the salt so that it dissolves, and stir into the dressing.

Cover and set aside.

When the leeks have been cooked and drained, put them into a shallow serving bowl and top with about 3 tablespoons of the dressing. Gently turn the leeks in the dressing until they are evenly coated. Top with another 2 or 3 tablespoons of dressing and enjoy right away.

Leftover dressing should be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before using.

Poached Leeks with Warm Garlic Vinaigrette & Egg Mimosa

Makes 4 servings

This dish is ideal for brunch on a spring morning. It also makes a lovely main course or side dish at dinner. Egg mimosa is simply hard-boiled eggs grated on the small blade of a box grater.

Poached Leeks, double recipe (see recipe above)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small shallot, minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed

2 tablespoons best-quality white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon freshly squeeze lemon juice

6 to 8 tablespoons best-quality extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled

2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley or snipped chives

First, poach the leeks, doubling the recipe, using 20 to 24 leeks.

While the leeks cook, pour the olive oil into a small sauté pan, add the shallot, and sauté over medium low heat until it is soft and fragrant, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté 2 minutes more. Add the capers and sauté an additional minute or two. Stir in the vinegar, lemon juice, and olive oil and heat through; do not to let the mixture boil. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Put the cooked and drained leeks into a shallow serving bowl. Season lightly with salt, generously with black pepper, and then spoon dressing over them.

Grate the eggs on the smallest blade of a box grater, toss with a little salt and pepper and sprinkle over the leeks. Scatter the parsley or chives on top and enjoy right away.

Pappardelle with Melted Leeks & Creme Fraiche

Makes 3 to 4 servings

Leeks that are cooked long and slow develop a rich sweetness that I find best when it plays center stage, as it does with this simple pasta. Be sure to clean the leeks thoroughly, as mud and sand can hide between the layers.

1 pound leeks, trimmed, thoroughly cleaned, and dried on tea towels

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons butter, preferably local organic butter

Kosher salt

4 tablespoons creme fraiche

8 ounces dried pappardelle

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons snipped chives

Fresh mustard flowers, if available

Cut the leeks into very thin rounds and use your fingers to fluff and separate the rings. Set aside.

Put the olive oil and butter in a large sauté pan, set over medium low heat, and, when the butter is melted, add the leeks, toss, and cook slowly until the leeks wilt. Season with salt, reduce the heat, and continue to cook until the leeks are very tender, about 20 or 25 minutes. Do not let them brown.

While the leeks cook, fill a large pot half full with water, add a couple of tablespoons of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water reaches a rolling boil, add the pasta and stir gently until the water returns to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook until the pasta is just tender

Drain the pasta but do not rinse it.

Working quickly, put the pasta into a wide shallow serving bowl that you have warmed by filling it with hot water. Return the leeks to low heat, stir in the creme fraiche, heat through, season with black pepper, taste, and correct for salt. Immediately pour the creme fraiche mixture over the pasta and use two forks to gently lift and drop the noodles in several places to allow the sauce to ooze throughout the noodles.

Scatter with chives, add a few mustard flowers, if using, and enjoy right away.

Leek Risotto with Poached Eggs

Makes 3 to 4 servings

This dish is so rich and voluptuous that it could seem a bit cloying. To mitigate this, squeeze lemon over each portion just before enjoy it.

[section: ingredients]

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 cups thinly sliced leeks (from about 3 medium leeks, white and pale green parts only, thoroughly cleaned)

Freshly ground black pepper

1 ½ cups Vialone Nano or Carnaroli rice

¾ cup dry white wine

3 cups homemade chicken or vegetable stock, hot

3 cups hot water, plus more as needed

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

4 ounces (1 cup) grated Bellwether Carmody or similar local cheese

3 or 4 eggs

½ lemon, cut into wedges

3 tablespoons fresh snipped chives

Mustard flowers, if available

Put the olive oil and butter into a wide deep pan and set over medium heat until the butter is melted. Add the leeks and sauté until they are wilted and have begun to soften, about 10 minutes. Season with a generous pinch or two of salt and several turns of black pepper.

Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon until each grain begins to turn milky white, about three minutes. Add the wine and simmer until it is nearly completely evaporated.

Meanwhile, put the stock and hot water into a saucepan and set over low heat to keep warm. Fill a small saucepan about two-thirds full with water, add the vinegar, and set over low heat.

Begin adding the warm stock to the rice, ½ cup at a time, and stirring constantly after each addition. Continue until the rice is tender but not mushy, about 18 to 20 minutes. Stir in the cheese, taste, correct the seasoning and stir in the last of the liquid.

Increase the heat under the saucepan to high. Break one of the eggs into a small bowl. When the water reaches a rolling boil, tip in the egg. Quickly break another egg and tip it into the bowl, followed by the next one or two eggs. Set a timer for two minutes.

Working quickly, divide the risotto among 3 or 4 soup plates.

When the timer goes off, quickly pull the eggs from the water, using a slotted spoon, and top each serving of risotto with one.

Grind black pepper over everything, sprinkle with a bit of salt, and garnish with a lemon wedge, chives, and, if available, mustard flowers.

Enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books, including “The Good Cook’s Book of Mustard.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.