Ambitious chef creates memorable meals at Hazel Hill

Slowly but surely, the world is starting to feel right again. Lounging on the terrace at the new Hazel Hill restaurant at Montage Healdsburg, I could feel the worries of the past 15 months melting away. Yes, things aren’t completely repaired yet in life, but it’s difficult to be too stressed when escaping at this luxury resort set amid 258 acres of vineyards and oak groves on the edge of Alexander Valley.

Our server, Bryan, brought our drinks right away — a beautiful Violet Beauregarde for me, crafted with Belvedere vodka, lemon, sweet Buddha’s hand citrus, sharp ginger, galangal, shiso, blueberries and soda ($18), and a Manzanita mocktail for my friend, refreshing with lemon, honey, sparkling apple cider and edible flowers ($8).

Then he offered some suggestions on the California-French menu, because I asked him to. At most restaurants, I can usually zero in on a few dishes I know I want, but here, Chef de Cuisine Jason Pringle has put together such a pretty collection that I want them all.

They read simply on the brief menu: “Pacific Oysters ($22 half dozen, $38 dozen),” for example, but each item includes an appealing hook. Yes, I want the oysters because I love oysters, but I’m more curious to taste the delicious-sounding adornments of Asian pear mignonette and JP's hot sauce. And I want the hamachi crudo, because I love hamachi, but I’m more intrigued to sample its unusual decorations of green almonds, ramp vinaigrette and basil ($24).

In my mind, I can imagine how brilliant the flavors will be even before I taste them, and I’m not disappointed. Pringle keeps everything exciting, just a bit different, and in full celebration of Wine Country’s artisanal ingredients.

The California native has the culinary chops required for the $310 million resort project. Most recently, he was chef de cuisine at the upscale Selby’s in Redwood City on the San Francisco Peninsula. Before that, he worked with the elegant Navio at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay; Chef Daniel Boulud's db Bistro Moderne in Miami; Café Boulud in New York City; and the former two-Michelin-star restaurant Aqua in San Francisco.

The chef also helped open several ambitious restaurants, including the former Millesime in New York City and Epic Roasthouse (now Epic Steak) in San Francisco. Those experiences came in handy as the entire Montage property navigated a roller coaster debut during the pandemic and wildfire outbreaks.

Bryan immediately steered me to the English pea soup ($18), though I already had known it would be mine since I love that dish, in almost any form. Here, the pea puree shimmers bright green and is centered by a generous dollop of coconut yogurt, curls of chewy coppa salami, microgreens and a hint of lavender. I expected it to be chilled, but it was served warm, which diminished its delicacy a bit.

Other guests had mentioned the same thing, Bryan said, joking that he “knew the chef” and would suggest that to him. And voila — with warmer weather popping up now, the soup is served chilled.

Fava beans are in season, and the labor-intensive vegetables show up several times on Hazel Hill’s spring-to-early summer menu. You’ll find them with ricotta gnocchi ($27), in the vegan sorghum bowl with Bing cherries and charred rapini ($26) and the best way — with burrata ($22). A doorknob-size piece of the cream-laced cheese is flanked by the crisp and nutty beans, chopped asparagus, fresh whole leaf herbs, a drizzle of golden Deergnaw extra-virgin olive oil from Dry Creek Valley and crusty country bread.

With another appetizer, char-grilled Delta asparagus, one of Pringle’s more inventive extras, the vegetables are plated atop buckwheat pearls on a bed of coconut labneh (yogurt), then laced with golden raisins and mixed wild mushrooms ($17). It’s a pleasing recipe, savory with just a hint of tropical sweetness.

I can see rounding out such vegetable-centric meals with a Hazel Hill salad ($19) through Healdsburg’s hotter summer months. The large pottery bowl frames a mosaic of colorful baby lettuces, seasonal vegetables like shaved radish and multicolor carrots, toasted hazelnuts and fromage blanc in sparkling cider vinaigrette ($19). Add protein for a more filling meal — Mary's organic chicken ($12), grilled, tail-on Cortez shrimp ($14) or flat iron steak ($20).

Still, as long as the chef keeps wild king salmon ($42) on the menu, that’s what I’ll be ordering. The meaty fish is showing up now on Bay Area docks, and here, the seafood is superb. Two deck-of-card-size slabs are the perfect balance of tender and firm; glistening with sea salt and plated with a large puddle of lemony sorrel puree, crunchy radish, grilled Vidalia onion chunks and spoonfuls of rich, smoked onion soubise.

To be sure, a meal at Hazel Hill can be an expensive retreat, especially if you order the one-ounce appetizer of Osetra caviar, presented with classic crème fraîche and pomme paillasson (shredded potato pancake) for a cool $175. The Wagyu strip loin accompanied by duck-fat potatoes, cipollini onions and sauce au poivre runs $75.

Even if you order a burger at lunch, you’ll offer up $26. But keep in mind, this one of the best burgers in Wine Country. The meat comes from the North Bay’s Flannery Beef and is stacked as a double patty; crowned with aged, earthy Gruyère, caramelized onions and black truffle aioli on a brioche bun alongside crispy frites. It’s hearty enough that I made two meals of it.

But I appreciate how high-end hasn’t translated to fussy. The terrace overlooks 15 ½ acres of premium vineyards overseen by internationally renowned winemaker Jesse Katz for wines bottled at Katz’s Aperture Cellars Winery six miles from the property. Yet there’s also a bocce ball court below the deck and prime views of canines racing around the dog-friendly area.

Inside, floor-to-ceiling windows add airiness to rooms set with an exposition kitchen, exhibit pantry and warm décor of wood, leather and fabric. A floating private dining room occupies its own glass box, designed in cantilever style.

As I spooned up my dessert of coconut tapioca pearls ($13), it felt like a pretty perfect experience at this fancy, friendly hideaway. This was elevated comfort food, with the silky custard crowned in mango sorbet stabbed with a spun sugar ornament, then finished with mango salsa and black sesame. Bryan came by, to offer me an entirely civilized cup of tea.

And the universe seemed to grow cozy again.

Carey Sweet is a Sebastopol-based food and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every other week in Sonoma Life. Contact her at carey@careysweet.com.