Chef John Ash shares his favorite summertime recipes

Each season has its unique ingredients and flavors, but summer provides the most abundant. It’s hard to keep up with the delicious “glut” we’re presented with at this time of year.

“Summer cooking implies a sense of immediacy, a capacity to capture the essence of the fleeting moment,” noted Elizabeth David, the Grande Dame of English food writing.

My challenge to you is to not miss the moment. Be adventurous and try things you haven’t tried before!

I suggest you also listen to your favorite summer music while cooking. At the risk of revealing my dotage, some of my faves are “Here Comes the Sun” by George Harrison, “Hot Time in the Summertime” by Sly and the Family Stone and “Summer Breeze” by Seals and Crofts. Fill in with your own playlist.

Here then are some of my perennial favorite summer recipes to get you going.

Licuados (“blendeds” or “liquifieds” in English) are part of the larger universe of fruit drinks made with fruit juice diluted with milk (either fresh or canned) or water. They’re found all over Mexico and Central America. They are simple to make and come in as many variations as there are cooks to make them. Besides fruit, they can include nuts and raw egg.

Aguas frescas are made in advance and ladled from large jars, and other drinks such as refrescos and jugos are typically mass-produced and bottled. By contrast, licuados usually are blended and made to order. Sometimes they are made into “adult beverages” with the addition of a little rum.

Lime Licuado

Makes about 3 cups

2 large limes, washed and roughly chopped

⅓ cup sugar

⅓ cup sweetened condensed milk

3 large mint leaves, plus more for garnish

2 cups cold water

Place all ingredients in a blender and blend on high speed for 30-40 seconds or until limes are finely chopped. Strain through a medium strainer, pressing down on the solids. Adjust sweet and sour elements to your own taste. Chill until very cold or pour over a few ice cubes and garnish with mint.

Variation: Add 1 small skinned and seeded avocado before blending.

Native Americans (the Narragansett) introduced colonists to this mix of beans and corn which they called “msickquatash.” Mark Twain listed succotash (along with possum, coon and cobblers) among the foods from home he most craved while traveling!

Summer Succotash

Makes 6 servings

3 cups green and/or yellow wax beans, cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoon butter

1 cup chopped sweet red onion

1 medium red bell pepper

1 medium poblano pepper

2 cups diced zucchini or other summer squash

2 cups fresh corn kernels

¾ cup chicken or vegetable stock

½ cup crème fraiche

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, parsley, tarragon or whatever herb you like

Blanch the beans in boiling salted water until crisp-tender. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking.

Heat the oil and butter in a large skillet over moderately high heat. Add the onion and peppers and cook for a minute or two or until just beginning to soften. Stir in squash and corn and cook for another minute or two, stirring.

Add the stock and crème fraiche and cook until vegetables are crisp-tender and liquid has reduced to a creamy consistency. Season to your taste with salt and pepper and stir in basil (or other herbs) just before serving.

This is a perfect summertime dish. The “fire” comes from heat of the serrano chiles that contrasts with the “íce” — cool, refreshing fruit. The aromatic mint, tart lime, feta and salty prosciutto add delicious flavor counterpoints. Use whatever fruit are best in the market.

“Fire and Ice” Peach Salad with Feta, Figs and Prosciutto

Serves 8

⅓ cup sugar or honey

¼ cup white wine or water

1 teaspoon seeded and minced serrano chiles, or to taste

2 tablespoons finely diced red bell peppers

¼ cup fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

8 firm ripe peaches

4 ounces fresh feta cheese, cut into 8 attractive pieces

8 fresh ripe figs, fanned

8 paper-thin slices of prosciutto or other salumi of your choice

Lime wedges for garnish

Garnish: Edible flower petals such as nasturtium, chive or borage (optional)

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and wine over moderate heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add the chiles and peppers and cool. Stir in the lime juice and mint just before serving. (Syrup can be stored covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

To serve: Peel peaches if desired, cut in half and remove seeds. Cut each half into thirds and arrange along with feta attractively on chilled plates. Spoon chile syrup over peaches and arrange figs and prosciutto artfully around. Sprinkle with edible flower petals, if using.

This is a relatively quick brunch, lunch or supper dish. Burrata is called the queen of Italian cheeses. With an outer shell of fresh cow or buffalo mozzarella, it is filled with a mixture of curds and fresh cream. In Italian, burrata means “buttery.”

Fresh Corn Polenta with Blistered Tomatoes and Burrata

Makes 4 servings

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

3 ½ cups chicken or vegetable stock

¾ cup coarse polenta meal

1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels, coarsely pureed (1 medium ear of corn)

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan or Asiago cheese

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Blistered tomatoes (recipe follows)

2 4-ounce balls burrata, cut in half

Lemon olive oil such as “O” or McEvoy

Fried basil leaves (optional)

In a medium saucepan over moderate heat, melt the butter and sauté the shallots for a couple of minutes until translucent but not brown. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Whisk in the polenta slowly to prevent lumps and stir until mixture returns to a boil. Stir in corn.

Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10-12 minutes or until the mixture is smooth and cooked to your liking. If you prefer a softer texture, cook for a few minutes more, adding a bit more stock and being sure to stir to prevent sticking and burning. Off heat, cover and keep warm.

To serve: Stir grated cheese into polenta and divide the polenta into 4 shallow soup plates. Top with the tomatoes and then the burrata. Drizzle with the olive oil and serve immediately.

Blistered Tomatoes

Makes 4 servings

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 cups fresh cherry and regular tomatoes, cut into attractive shapes

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped mixed herbs such as chives, parsley, basil and/or tarragon

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil over moderately high heat in a small sauté pan. Add the garlic and cook for a few seconds. Add tomatoes and stir for a couple of minutes more or until they begin to soften and blister. Off heat, cool slightly and stir in herbs. Season to your taste with salt and pepper.

This warm, garlicky anchovy dressing is fantastic, and I am betting it will become a favorite for other salads.

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Anchovy Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

For dressing:

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

4 anchovies, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 medium shallot, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

For salad:

2 large eggs

1 ½ pounds assorted heirloom tomatoes (large ones wedged, small ones halved)

Flaky salt such as Maldon’s

Freshly ground pepper

Flat-leaf parsley leaves and chopped chives, for garnish

In a small skillet, combine the olive oil, anchovies, garlic and lemon zest.

In a small bowl, toss the shallot with the vinegar and let stand for 10 minutes.

Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Turn the heat to low and, when the water is simmering, gently place the eggs in the water. Cook for 6 minutes, until lightly boiled. Have an ice bath ready near the stove. With a slotted spoon, plunge the eggs in the ice bath and let cool for 2 minutes. Peel the eggs.

Arrange the tomatoes on 4 plates and season with flaky salt and pepper. Scatter the shallot and vinegar over the tomatoes.

Warm the anchovy dressing over moderate heat to a gentle simmer; pour over the tomatoes. Cut the eggs in half crosswise and place a half on each plate. Scatter the parsley and chives over the salad and serve at once.

A couple of decades ago, swordfish were severely over-fished. We almost lost them as a viable commercial species. (You may remember the chef boycotts about not including swordfish on their menus.) Today, however, the major seafood resource groups (Seafood Watch, NOAA, Marine Stewardship Council) have applauded the responsible fishing and habitat preservation that have allowed North Atlantic swordfish, especially, to repopulate. You can consume it with a good conscience.

Be sure to check where it comes from and how it is harvested. Swordfish is one of the easiest fish to grill because of its firm, meaty texture. Be sure to give your grill a vigorous scrubbing with a grill brush and then lightly oil the grill and the fish ahead of time. You also can substitute halibut, salmon or any firm-fleshed fish you like.

Swordfish with Green Olives and Oranges

Makes 4 servings

2 large seedless oranges, preferably navel

1 small garlic clove, peeled and very thinly sliced

1 cup pitted green olives such as Cerignola, pitted and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon capers, drained and chopped

3 anchovies in olive oil, drained and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for brushing

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes or to taste

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

4 swordfish fillets, about 5 ounces each

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the oranges: Peel and segment the oranges over a small bowl to catch the juices. Squeeze the remaining membrane over the bowl to extract all the juices. Discard membrane and season oranges very lightly with salt and pepper. Set aside.

For the green olive topping: Mix the garlic, olives, capers, anchovies, parsley, 2 tablespoons olive oil and red pepper flakes together in a small bowl. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

For the swordfish: Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct grilling over medium-high heat.

Pat the fish dry with paper towels. Lightly brush the fillets on both sides with olive oil, then season with salt and black pepper. Lightly oil the grill rack. Place the fish on the grill rack and cover the grill. Cook, turning once, until the swordfish looks opaque when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, about 6 minutes total. Be careful not to overcook.

Transfer the fillets to individual plates, top each with a generous spoonful of the green olive topping and add orange segments around with some of the juice. Serve immediately.

This is a simple but lovely dessert, which could be made in the terrine as suggested here or in individual serving molds. “Semifreddo” is Italian and translates to “half-frozen,” which is what this dessert is, somewhere between ice cream and a pudding.

If you are concerned about using raw egg yolks, you could whisk the yolks and sugar with one half cup or so of dry white wine in a double boiler over simmering water until light, fluffy and cooked, before folding in the whipped cream. This dessert melts relatively quickly, so plate just before you plan to serve it, preferably on plates you’ve put in the freezer for at least 15 minutes.

Ginger, Fig and Cranberry Semifreddo with Blackberry Sauce

Yields one 8-cup terrine serving 8-10

2 ¾ cups heavy whipping cream

8 egg yolks

⅔ cup sugar

¼ cup minced candied ginger

¼ cup finely chopped dried figs

⅓ cup dried chopped cranberries, finely chopped

2 tablespoons grated orange zest

Blackberry Sauce (recipe follows)

Mint sprigs, for garnish

With an electric mixer, beat cream until stiff peaks form and set aside. In a separate bowl, beat egg yolks until light in color. Gradually beat in sugar and continue beating for 3 to 4 minutes until light and fluffy. Gently fold the egg and cream mixture together along with rest of ingredients through the zest.

Line a 7- or 8-cup terrine with plastic wrap and fill with mixture. Cover top with plastic and freeze for 6 hours or overnight.

To serve: Unmold, cut into slices and surround with fresh blackberry sauce and mint sprigs.

Blackberry Sauce

5 cups fresh or IQF (flash frozen) blackberries

¾ cup sugar (or to taste)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons blackberry brandy (optional)

Put all ingredients in a blender or food processor and puree. Push through a fine strainer to remove all seeds. Store refrigerated up to 5 days.

John Ash is a Santa Rosa chef, teacher, James Beard award-winning cookbook author and radio host of the KSRO “Good Food Hour” airing at 11 a.m. Saturday. He can be reached through his website, chefjohnash.com