Chef John Ash shares his favorite ways to cook with corn

What is truly amazing about corn is its versatility and seemingly endless uses, culinary and otherwise.

There are many theories about the origins of corn, but most agree that sometime between 10,000 and 5,500 B.C., the first corn plants were hybridized and domesticated in Central and South America.

Corn is the most commonly grown crop in the U.S. Also, remember that there would be no bourbon without it!

Native Seeds/SEARCH, a nonprofit conservation organization in Arizona, identifies five types of corn (Zea mays is its scientific name):

• Flint or Indian corn, which comes in many colors and is so named for its “hard as flint” outer layer.

• Pop corn is a sub-variety of flint, with a soft, starchy center that facilitates the “pop” in our favorite movie snack.

• Flour corn, white in color and easily ground, is the basis of tamales and tortillas. The whole kernels are used for posole.

• Dent or field corn, so named because when it’s dried a “dent” forms in the top of the kernel, is used primarily for animal feed and industrial products such as ethanol.

• Sweet corn, the one we are most familiar with for culinary uses, is consumed while it’s still “green” and is not dried. The old admonition was to get a pot of water boiling before you picked the corn, then get that corn into the water pronto to maintain its sweetness. With the art of hybridization, this isn’t so important now. Super-sweet varieties maintain their sweetness for days.

Without question, the “bible” of corn is Betty Fussell’s “The Story of Corn,” published by University of New Mexico Press. The book is a unique compendium of corn’s history, science, mythology, art, anecdotes and more. If you love corn as much as I do, this should be on your bookshelf.

Here are some of my favorite corn recipes:

This is great as a garnish on almost anything. I eat it straight out of the jar with a creamy cheese.

Pickled Corn

Makes about 4 cups

1 cup white wine vinegar

¾ cup water

⅓ cup sugar

¼ teaspoon fennel seed, crushed

1 tablespoon kosher salt

3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons curry powder, such as Madras

3 ½ cups corn kernels (from 4 ears of corn)

1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and diced (1 cup or so)

¾ cup diced sweet red onion

Add vinegar, water, sugar, fennel seed, salt, garlic and curry to a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Add corn, red pepper and red onion and return to a simmer, about 2 minutes. Place mixture into a clean glass jar, then cover and refrigerate for up to 6 weeks.

These are like blini, the Russian small buckwheat pancake.

Tiny Corn Pancakes with Smoked Salmon

Makes about 16 cakes serving 4 to 6

¼ cup flour

¼ cup cornmeal

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup corn kernels, from 1 large ear of corn

1 small egg, beaten

½ cup plain Greek yogurt

4 tablespoons melted butter

2 tablespoons or so milk

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon

Crème fraîche and snipped chives, for garnish

Salmon caviar (optional)

Whisk flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt and sugar together in a mixing bowl. Grind corn kernels to a rough puree in a food processor. Then add egg, yogurt and 3 tablespoons butter and pulse to mix. Add flour mixture and pulse together to make a thick batter. Set aside for at least 10 minutes. Thin with a little milk. Batter can be prepared several hours ahead and refrigerated.

Add remaining tablespoon of butter to a griddle or cast-iron pan over medium heat. Using 1 tablespoon batter, make pancakes about 2 ½ inches in diameter. Cook for 3 minutes, until bubbles appear on surface and pancakes are lightly browned. Flip and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. Pancakes may be cooked in advance and reheated.

To serve, place two or three warm pancakes overlapping on small plate. Arrange a rosette of smoked salmon alongside. Drizzle with crème fraîche and sprinkle with chives and salmon caviar, if using.

Esquites is the off-the-cob version of elotes, the ubiquitous grilled and charred Mexican street corn slathered with crema or sour cream or mayonnaise, Cotija cheese, chile powder and a squeeze of lime. In this recipe I’m doing the charring on the stovetop, but you could certainly use the grill.

Mexican Street Corn Salad

Serves 4

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 ears fresh corn, shucked, kernels removed (about 4 cups fresh corn kernels)

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 ounces crumbled Cotija, feta or ricotta salata cheese

⅓ cup finely sliced scallions, green parts only

½ cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, chopped

1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed and finely chopped

1 medium clove garlic, pressed or finely minced

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice or to taste

Ancho or guajillo chili powder to taste

Lime wedges, for garnish

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet or wok over high heat until shimmering. Add corn kernels, season to taste with salt, toss once or twice and cook without moving until charred on one side, about 2 minutes. Toss corn, stir and repeat until charred on second side, about 2 minutes longer. Continue tossing and charring until corn is nicely charred all over, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a large bowl.

Add mayonnaise, cheese, scallions, cilantro, jalapeño, garlic, lime juice and chili powder and toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning to your taste.

When cutting corn kernels from the cob, stand it in a bowl and slice down the cob's sides; the bowl corrals the flying kernels.

Grilled Corn Poblano Salad with Chipotle Vinaigrette

Makes 3 ½ cups serving 6 or so

3 ears corn, shucked

1 poblano chile

3 tablespoons olive or canola oil, divided

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 teaspoon finely chopped canned chipotle chile

Kosher salt

1 avocado, cut into chunks

¼ cup cilantro leaves

½ cup slivered sweet onion, rinsed, patted dry

Heat grill to high (450 to 550 degrees). Rub corn and poblano with 1 tablespoon oil. Grill both, turning occasionally, until poblano is mostly blackened, 5 to 10 minutes, and some corn kernels have browned, 10 to 20 minutes. Let cool.

Working with one at a time, stand corncobs in a large bowl and slice down the sides; the bowl corrals flying kernels. Peel and seed poblano, cut into ½-inch pieces, and add to corn. In a small bowl, whisk remaining 2 tablespoons oil with the lime juice, chipotle chile and salt to taste.

Stir avocado, cilantro, and onion into corn mixture along with chipotle dressing.

Fresh corn makes a delicious sauce for any white meat. This is an easy-to-prepare recipe and best when sweet summer corn is available. Any firm white fish you like can be substituted.

Salmon with Corn Cream Sauce

Serves 4

3 tablespoons butter

2 ½ cups fresh corn kernels (from 2 large ears)

1 cup finely chopped onion

¼ teaspoon chipotle or other pure chile powder, or to taste

1 ½ cups chicken or shrimp stock

⅔ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon dry sherry, optional

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

4 6-ounce fillets of salmon, pin bones removed, skin on

Fresh herb sprigs such as basil, tarragon or chervil

2 tablespoons rinsed salmon caviar, optional

Add 2 tablespoons butter to a large saute pan and heat over moderately high heat. Add ½ cup corn and, stirring often, cook until it begins to brown on the edges. Set aside for garnish. Add onion, remaining 2 cups corn and chile powder to pan and cook until onion softens, about 3 minutes. Add stock, cream and sherry and continue to cook for a few minutes until mixture just begins to thicken and vegetables are very soft, about 6 minutes.

Off heat, add to a blender and carefully puree until very smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing down on the solids. Discard solids, return sauce to pan and keep warm. Adjust seasoning to your taste.

Meanwhile, melt remaining butter and oil in a large nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Season salmon generously with salt and pepper. Place skin side down in the pan. Cook until skin is lightly browned and beginning to crisp, about 4 minutes. Turn fish and cook flesh side for another couple of minutes or until done.

Place salmon on warm plates. Spoon warm sauce around and top with reserved browned kernels. Garnish with herbs sprigs and salmon caviar, if using.

Native Americans (the Narragansett) introduced colonists to this mix of beans and corn which they called “msickquatash.” Mark Twain listed succotash (along with possum, coon and cobblers) among the foods he most craved from home when he was traveling!

Summer Succotash

Serves 6

3 cups green and/or yellow wax beans, cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoon butter

1 cup chopped red onion

1 medium red bell pepper

1 medium poblano pepper

2 cups diced zucchini or other summer squash

2 cups fresh corn kernels

¾ cup or so chicken or corn stock

½ cup crème fraîche

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, parsley, tarragon or whatever herb you like

Blanch the beans in boiling, salted water until crisp-tender. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Heat the oil and butter in a large skillet over moderately high heat. Add the onion and peppers and cook for a couple of minutes or until just beginning to soften. Stir in squash and corn and cook for another minute or 2, stirring. Add the stock and crème fraîche and cook until vegetables are crisp-tender and liquid has reduced to a creamy consistency. Season to your taste with salt and pepper and stir in basil just before serving.

This is from my good friend JJ Buchanan, who is an incredible chef and has cooked with iconic chefs like Judy Rogers and Patricia Unterman, among others. She describes it this way: “I made a riff on Deborah Madison’s Bread Pudding with Corn for years. I served it in restaurants and took it to every potluck I was invited to. Tomato salad on the side — totally summer.”

Corn Bread Pudding

Serves 6 or more

1 tablespoon butter plus more for buttering the dish

1 bunch scallions, cut into rounds

3 cups fresh corn kernels

½ teaspoon pure chili powder plus more for dusting

Kosher salt

⅓ cup roughly chopped cilantro

4 large eggs

2 cups whole milk

5 cups good bread cubes, crusts removed and cut into ¾-inch cubes

1 cup shredded sharp cheddar (I frequently substitute Laura Chenel’s Chevre or a mix)

⅔ cup heavy cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 3-quart baking dish.

Saute scallions, corn and chili powder until scallions are tender. Salt to taste and stir in cilantro.

Whisk eggs and milk with ½ teaspoon salt and pour over bread in a bowl.

Add corn mixture and cheese and transfer to prepared baking dish.

Pour over the cream and bake until puffed and brown, about 45 minutes.

Dust the top with chili powder.

Burrata is called the queen of Italian cheeses. With an outer shell of fresh cow or buffalo mozzarella, the inside is filled with a mixture of curds and fresh cream. In Italian, burrata literally means “buttery.”

Fresh Corn Polenta with Blistered Tomatoes and Burrata

Serves 4

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels, coarsely pureed if desired

3½ cups chicken or vegetable stock

¾ cup coarse polenta meal

1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan, Asiago or Dry Jack cheese

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Blistered tomatoes (recipe follows)

2 4-ounce balls burrata, cut in half

Lemon olive, oil such as California “O” or McEvoy, for garnish

In a medium saucepan over moderate heat, melt the butter and sauté the shallots and corn for a couple of minutes till translucent but not brown. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Whisk in the polenta slowly to prevent lumps and stir until mixture returns to a boil. Stir in corn.

Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 — 12 minutes or until the mixture is smooth and cooked to your liking. If you prefer a softer texture, cook for a few minutes more, adding a bit more stock and being sure to stirring to prevent sticking and burning. Off heat, cover and keep warm.

To serve: Stir grated cheese into polenta and divide the polenta into 4 shallow soup plates. Top with the tomatoes and then the burrata. Drizzle with the olive oil and serve immediately.

Blistered Tomatoes

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 cups fresh cherry tomatoes, halved if large

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped mixed herbs such as chives, parsley, basil and/or tarragon

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil over moderately high heat in a small sauté pan. Add the garlic and cook and cook for a few seconds. Add tomatoes and stir for a couple of minutes more or until they begin to soften and blister. Off heat, cool slightly and stir in herbs. Season to your taste with salt and pepper.

This little variation on traditional corn muffins is a tasty conversation piece. I often add other ingredients to the batter such as crumbled crisp bacon, fresh corn kernels or roasted and chopped green chiles.

Cornhusk Muffins

Makes 12 muffins

8 large, dried cornhusks

2 cups all-purpose flour

¾ cup masa harina or coarse corn meal

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 ⅓ cups shredded Jack cheese (plain, or with pepper or garlic added, as you prefer)

1 large egg

¼ cup (½ stick) melted butter

1 cup milk

2 tablespoons honey

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Separate cornhusks and place in a deep bowl. Pour boiling water over to cover and soak for 10 minutes or until they are pliable. Drain, pat husks dry and tear lengthwise into 1-inch strips.

Mix the flour, masa, baking powder and salt together. Stir in 1 cup of the cheese. In a separate bowl, beat the egg, butter, milk and honey together. Quickly stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture just to moisten. Don’t over mix.

Butter 12 2½-inch muffin cups and place two or three strips of the cornhusk, crossing the center in the bottom of each cup. The ends of the husks should extend at least 2 inches above the rim of the cup. Divide batter and fill each cup three-quarters full as you line them. Sprinkle remaining cheese over top of each muffin.

Bake in a 375-degree oven until tops are puffed and golden, about 25 minutes.

Serve warm or cooled. Best eaten same day they are made.

Here’s one of the classic comfort food recipes of Mexico. Cooking the hominy from dry can take a while, so to speed things up, use canned hominy, which is certainly acceptable.

Slow Cooker Pork Pozole

Serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, fat trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

Coarse salt

1 white onion (about 1 cup), chopped, plus more for serving

4 garlic cloves, chopped

2 tablespoons pure chili powder, such as ancho

1 large poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon crushed fennel seed

2 teaspoons oregano, preferably Mexican

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon brown sugar

3 cups chicken stock

1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, preferably fire-roasted

Two 15-ounce cans hominy (pozole), drained and rinsed

Accompaniments for serving:

Chopped avocado

Chopped white onion

Finely shredded cabbage

Sliced radishes

Crumbled Cotija cheese

Ground chile piquín

Fried corn tortilla strips or tortilla chips

Lime wedges

Preheat a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker on high until warm, about 20 minutes. Season pork generously with salt.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon oil. Add the pork to the skillet and cook until the pieces are browned on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer to the slow cooker. You might have to do this in two batches.

In the same skillet, reduce the heat to medium-low and heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add the onion, garlic, chili powder, poblano, fennel seed, oregano, cumin and sugar and saute until softened, about 6 minutes. Transfer to the slow cooker with the tomatoes and add stock and cook, stirring and scraping up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Cover and cook until the meat is very tender, 4 hours on high or 8 hours on low. About 1 hour before the end, add the hominy. Season to your taste with salt.

Serve the pozole with the accompaniments on the side for each person to add as desired.

This is a delicious, rustic cake similar to those made in many parts of Northern Italy. The key here is to not overbake the cake. The syrup can be made days ahead and is delicious drizzled on ice cream, pancakes, on a lusty blue cheese or as a sweetener for iced teas. Other woody herbs such as lemon thyme, verbena or oregano make equally interesting syrups.

Lemon Polenta Cake with Rosemary Syrup and Fresh Berries

Serves 8

1 cup stoneground cornmeal (or ¾ cup cornmeal plus ¼ cup polenta)

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs plus 2 egg whites

¼ cup vegetable oil (plus 1 tablespoon for pan)

2 tablespoons softened butter

½ cup plain yogurt

1 ½ tablespoons grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 pint fresh berries of your choice

Rosemary Syrup (recipe follows)

Garnish: Lightly sweetened and whipped cream or crème fraîche and rosemary sprigs.

Line bottom of an 8-inch cake pan with parchment or wax paper and lightly oil. Sift cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt together in a bowl and set aside.

In a separate bowl, beat sugar, eggs and egg whites together until creamy. Beat in oil, butter, yogurt, lemon zest and juice until smooth. Fold in dry ingredients until just combined. Do not over-mix.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 35 - 40 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

Cool for 15 minutes on a rack. Invert, peel off paper and cool completely.

Store wrapped in plastic in refrigerator for up to five days or frozen for one month.

To serve: Cut cake into wedges and place on plates, scatter berries around and drizzle a tablespoon or two of rosemary syrup over berries. Garnish with rosemary sprigs.

Rosemary Syrup

¾ cup sugar

¾ cup dry white wine

⅓ cup water

3 tablespoons rosemary leaves

1 large bay leaf

½ teaspoon whole peppercorns

3 tablespoons golden balsamic vinegar (see note below)

Place all ingredients in a saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Cool, strain and store refrigerated.

Note: Alessi from Italy is widely available. I also like theGolden Balsamic Vinegar from Sparrow Lane in the Napa Valley (sparrowlane.com).

John Ash is a Santa Rosa chef, teacher, James Beard award-winning cookbook author and radio host of KSRO’s “Good Food Hour” airing at 11 a.m. Saturday. He can be reached through his website, chefjohnash.com.