Cooking with ‘Flavor’: Renowned chef, author Yotam Ottolenghi swings by Santa Rosa on book tour

Perhaps you have heard of Yotam Ottolenghi, the writer and owner of seven Ottolenghi restaurants and delis in London?

That may be because the bestselling cookbook author has taken the food world by storm in the past decade, garnering a gigantic following for his delicious approach to plant-forward eating.

Just don’t call him a vegetarian.

“I’ve never wanted to force people to eat vegan or vegetarian or change their diet,” Ottolenghi said in an interview in late April. “Seasoning your food with meat or fish, which is to say using very little meat or fish, is the way to go. If you use an anchovy you can create an incredible dish that people will want to eat.”

Since 2006, the chef and restaurateur has written a weekly food column for The Guardian’s Feast Magazine. Last month, Ottolenghi took it up a notch with the launch of his inaugural Eat column for The New York Times Magazine, where he shared salad secrets from the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen and a recipe for Yogurty Butter Beans with Pistachio Dukkah.

The Israeli-born British chef will discuss one of his newest cookbooks, “Ottolenghi Flavor,” on Friday at the Luther Burbank Center for the Arts as part of the Copperfield’s Books series. The talk will be moderated by Daniel Kedan, formerly the chef/owner of Backyard Forestville and now an instructor at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena.

“Ottolenghi has become a culinary icon, helping to shift the conversation and adding a much needed value to plant-centric eating,” Kedan said. “His use of vegetables and spices helps to bring different worlds together in a shared language of food.”

In “Ottolenghi Flavor,” written with longtime colleague Ixta Belfrage, the authors reveal the secrets to amplifying vegetables’ flavor through key cooking techniques like charring and browning, pantry ingredients such as anchovies and fish sauce and add-ons like flavored butters, dressings, pickles and nuts.

“It’s about understanding what makes vegetables distinct and, accordingly, devising ways in which their flavors can be ramped up and tasted afresh,” Ottolenghi writes in the book’s introduction. “It’s about creating flavor bombs, especially designed for veg.”

Born in Jerusalem to an intellectual family — his Italian-born father was a chemistry professor and his mother was a high school principal — Ottolenghi served in intelligence during his mandatory military service for the Israeli Defense Forces starting in 1989. Then he got his bachelor’s and master’s degrees in comparative literature.

After moving to London, he studied French pastry at Le Cordon Bleu and served as a pastry chef at three London restaurants. Ottolenghi met Palestinian chef Sami Tamimi in 1999 while he was working as pastry chef at London’s Baker and Spice, and they became fast friends and business partners.

A collaborator at heart, Ottolenghi has authored multiple best-selling cookbooks with colleagues, including his debut cookbook, “Ottolenghi” (2008) and “Jerusalem” (2012), with Tamimi; “Sweet” (2017) with Helen Goh; “Ottolenghi Simple” (2018) with Tara Wigley and Esme Howart; and “Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love,” with Noor Murad (2021).

His 10th cookbook, “Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Extra Good Things,” written with Noor and the OTK team, features veg-forward meals that offer a little something “extra” on top. That cookbook is due out this fall.

Although his cookbooks are admired for their plain-spoken directions, Ottolenghi has also made a splash with the books’ innovative packaging and naturalistic photography. According to the New York Times, they are "widely knocked-off for their ... puffy covers, and photographs (that Ottolenghi) oversees himself, eschewing a food stylist.“

Restaurant Consultant Clark Wolf of Guerneville counts himself among Ottolengthi’s many fans here in Sonoma County. He admires the food entrepreneur for his openness to collaboration and his savvy business plan.

“First, diversification means resilience,” Wolf said. “ He does delis and restaurants and books and TV and columns, all in generous collaboration with others. They’ve all survived the pandemic well, as he’s gathered up some 2 million Instagram followers.”

Not only can Ottolengthi keep several plates spinning at once, Wolf said, but he seems to do it all with a smile, remaining affable and unpretentious despite his worldwide celebrity and fame.

“He is a good cook, good chef, good restaurateur and good writer … but he’s also a good guy,” Wolf said. “He’s proving daily that the old, rock’n’roll bad boy chef-and-jerk model need not be the path to success.”

We interviewed Ottolenghi in advance of his 10-city, U.S. book tour, which kicked off April 30 in Boston.

Q: As you get ready to launch off on a two-week book tour, do you have any tips for eating well on the road?

A: It’s a really tricky one. In a way, when I finish an event, it’s a little too late for dinner, because it’s 9:30 or 10 p.m., and then there’s an early wake-up call the next day. I find the best way to lose weight is to go on a book tour or on any tour. You are forced not to have dinner, and I plan on shedding a few pounds.

But if arrive early enough, I ask people about a local restaurant. I always like to try a cuisine or a restaurant that I haven’t had before, and there are so many places all over America. When I travel, it’s the best opportunity, because each city has their own set of ingredients. I’ve never been to Minneapolis, and a journalist really recommended a Vietnamese restaurant there. If you have one for me to have lunch in Santa Rosa?

Q: Did your upbringing in Israel, from childhood through early adulthood, shape your palate?

A: I think it’s true about all cultures that have food in the center, which is most cultures. When you are a immigrant, and you go live in another place, you can’t forget the food that you had in your formative years. It’s hard to put it behind. This applies to me as much as to anyone else. The funny irony is that when I came to London, I cooked professionally only in London after going to pastry school at Le Cordon Bleu. And I never cooked from the Israeli or Palestinian traditions ‒ the flavors I grew up with.

And when Sami Tamimi and I wrote “Jerusalem” (Ten Speed Press, 2012), it was really the first time we visited those flavors. Not to say that I haven’t cooked this food, but it wasn’t the food that had sustained me since I left. It’s only when we started working on the book, and I looked back at the food that I had growing up, in some ways it was almost like going back there.

Q: Do you still eat an Israeli-style breakfast, the chopped salad with some bread?

A: Yes and no. I have two young boys and their breakfast is definitely different from the other kids. I do a fried egg, a sliced cucumber and toast and maybe some sliced pepper. Raw vegetables for breakfast I took with me, but the fried egg is international, and I’ll sprinkle za’tar on it. And in some ways, it’s a like a hybrid breakfast, and that’s true for many of the dishes in our house. My husband is British, from Northern Ireland, and sometimes he cooks British food. But we make coffee the Italian way — with a press or an espresso machine.

Q: London has such a thriving food scene now. What do you like best about it?

A: There’s a lot to like. It’s grown so much, and it’s so diverse and complicated. There are immigrants here from many places, and they are bringing their food. They’re very happy to adopt the food of other cultures, so there’s delicious Indian and Pakistani food, but we’ve also got lots of immigrants from Greece and Italy and Asia, and I love that London. Also it’s very cutting edge ... these days, it really is one of the best places to get food, of all kinds and shapes.

Q: Your family spent a year in Northern California when you were a boy. What kind of impression did that leave?

A: It was 1978, and we were living in the Bay Area. This really feels like decades ago. The world was a very different world, and the difference between Israel and America could not have been greater. I grew up with Middle Eastern food, but when I came to the U.S., I was exposed to fast food, which was quite exciting. We don’t have much seafood (in Israel), and my parents used to take me to Fisherman’s Wharf, and we would get the fresh fried seafood, the shrimp and fish, and that was so good. For an 8-year-old boy, I think what was most exciting was all the modern stuff the soft ice creams and the color TV.

However, my mom was a very adventurous cook, and she had this book by Myra Waldo, I think it was “The Complete Around-the-World Cookbook.” And it was very popular in the 1970s and ‘80s, and she used to make Malaysian curries and Italian food. It was really the moment in time where people tried to cook internationally.

Q: Who are some of your inspirations as cookbook authors?

A: I really love Nigella Lawson, and her writing and her approach to cooking, which is light and practical but kind of glamorous in a way. Food is important and central, but not fetishized as it is with some people. I love what she cooks and how she talks about food, so these have been a real inspiration in terms of the tone.

I also like Claudia Roden, another writer from here (London), who writes books focused on the history of Jewish and Spanish and Italian cuisine. And I do like Alice Waters, and all the books that came out of Chez Panisse. These are really, really good books for vegetables, and Deborah Madison’s books are really fantastic.

Q: Eating more vegetables — is that a concept whose time has come?

A: Look, I think gradually everybody is acknowledging that vegetables are the right thing to be eating, and the move toward a vegetable-heavy diet is slow, but I think eventually we’ll all get there. I think that in 5-15 years time, we’ll all be eating less meat. The choices that people have is whether you want to eat things that are a bit like meat but are not meat, or whether you want to eat vegetables.

I think the thing that is important is how best to cook vegetables ... but again, I’m not a purist.

Q: You’ve collaborated a lot of other chefs while writing your cookbooks. What do you look for in a collaborator?

A: I’m looking for someone that knows things I don’t know. I find that working with people who come from different backgrounds, where they grew up in the world but also in terms of their professional background, it really creates a more interesting conversation, and as a result, more interesting recipes. My books have been largely a collaboration, and I find it helpful because what you get out of it is more unique and original than if you work with people who are more or less like you.

In my test kitchen, we have people who are really different from each other, from different parts of the world and different ages. I’ve been running the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen (OTK) for more than 10 years, but it was initially very small and then grew. Recently, it became a thing of its own, and we started publishing books, and we do a lot of stuff on YouTube, and I think that’s good. There’s a lot of people contributing. More and more, the OTK is where the books are going, and we have a series of smaller books full of wonderful recipes that reflect the test kitchen and teach you particular skills.

Q: I have a copy of your latest cookbook, “Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love: Recipes to Unlock the Secrets of your Pantry, Fridge and Freezer.” What do you suggest I cook?

A: I would say try the Tandoori Chickpeas, they’re really good, and the Smoky, Creamy Pasta with Burnt Aubergine and Tahini. Those are both really good. Everyone would like them.

The following recipes are reprinted with permission from “Ottolenghi Flavor” (2020, Ten Speed Press, $35) by Yotam Ottolenghi and Ixta Belfrage.

We’re not mad about calling vegetables a “steak” or “burger” or “schnitzel,” because it feels as if you are trying to pass them off as something else, something superior. Vegetables are great simply as they are. In fact, they are the best! Sometimes, though, using a meaty name helps you understand what’s going on and how delicious it is. Our portobellos aren’t trying to be a steak, they are simply as good as any steak (with mash), if not better ... What gives the mushrooms their verve is the chiles and spices and all the flavored oil that coats them. You’ll make more oil than you need here; keep it refrigerated in a sealed container for up to two weeks, to spoon over grilled vegetables, noodles, meat or fish. Serve this with some sauteed greens, if you like. Butter beans are also known as lima beans.

Portobello Steaks and Butter Bean Mash

Serves 4 as a main

For portobello steaks:

8 medium to large portobello mushrooms (about 1 pound, 7 ounces) stems removed

10 garlic cloves, peeled

1 onion, peeled and cut into 6 wedges (1 cup)

4½ teaspoons chipotle flakes (or 1–2 whole chipotle chiles, minced to yield 4½ teaspoons)

1 red chile

4 teaspoons cumin seeds, roughly crushed in a mortar and pestle

1 tablespoons coriander seeds, roughly crushed in a mortar and pestle

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 ⅔ cups olive oil

1 tablespoons flaked sea salt

For butter bean mash:

1 jar (1 pound 9 ounces) good-quality large butter beans, drained (or 2 ⅔ cups Brindisa Navarrico large butter beans or cook your own)

4 ½ teaspoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons water

½ teaspoons flaked sea salt

For the steaks: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large ovenproof saucepan, for which you have a lid, combine the mushrooms, garlic, onion, chile flakes, red chile, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, tomato paste, olive oil and salt and stir to mix. Arrange the mushrooms so they are domed-side up, then top with a piece of parchment paper, pushing it down to cover all the ingredients. Cover with the lid, then transfer to the oven for 1 hour. Turn the mushrooms over, replacing the paper and lid, and return to the oven for 20 minutes more, or until the mushrooms are very tender but not falling apart. Use a pair of tongs to transfer the mushrooms to a chopping board, then cut them in half and set aside.

Reserving the oil, use a spoon to transfer the onion, garlic, and chile (discarding the stem; don’t worry if you scoop up some of the spices and oil) into the bowl of a small food processor and blitz until smooth. Return the blitzed onion mixture to the saucepan, along with the mushroom halves, and place on medium-high heat. Cook for about 5 minutes, for all the flavors to come together.

For the mash: While the mushrooms are cooking, put the beans into a food processor along with the lemon juice, olive oil, water and salt. Blitz until completely smooth. Transfer to a medium saucepan and cook on medium-high heat for about 3 minutes, stirring, until warmed through.

Divide the mash among four plates. Top with four mushroom halves per plate and spoon in a generous amount of the reserved oil and its accompanying aromatics (you won’t need all of it, though as noted above). Serve at once.

Only two ingredients — lemon and milk — are what it takes to make paneer at home. It’s an experiment worth trying (it certainly feels like conducting a chemistry experiment), both for a sense of achievement and for unrivaled freshness. Yotam has published a recipe for it in the Guardian newspaper, but many others are also available online. If you buy your paneer — which makes the most satisfying filling for the grilled eggplants here, as it soaks up the coconut sauce — try to find a soft variety, which has a texture like compressed ricotta. Other varieties, which are harder and slightly rubbery, are more suitable for making vegetarian tikka kebabs, but they will also do if that’s what you’ve got. For a vegan option, use extra-firm tofu. Try to get a good-quality, chunky Indian mango pickle for this. Both the eggplant slices and the lentil sauce can be prepared the day before, if you want to get ahead. In fact, you can make the whole dish a day ahead, up until before it goes into the oven, then chill in the fridge and just bring to room temperature before warming up.

Stuffed Eggplant in Curry and Coconut Dal

Serves 4 as a main

3 large eggplants, stems removed, each eggplant cut lengthwise into 6-inch by ¼-inch thick slices (6 cups)

3 tablespoons olive oil

Table salt and black pepper

For coconut dal:

3 tablespoons olive oil

5 shallots, peeled and finely chopped (1⅔ cups)

1½ ounces fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

2 red chiles, finely chopped

30 fresh curry leaves (optional)

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons medium curry powder

2 teaspoons tomato paste

½ cup dried red lentils

1 can (13½ ounce) full-fat coconut milk

2½ cups water

¾ teaspoon table salt

8 ounces paneer (or extra-firm tofu), roughly grated

2 limes: finely zested to get 1 teaspoon, then juiced to get 2 tablespoon

1½ ounces hot mango pickle, roughly chopped, plus more to serve

¼ cup cilantro, roughly chopped, plus more to serve

Table salt

3½ ounces large (not baby) spinach leaves, stems removed (2 cups)

1 tablespoon olive oil

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, toss the eggplants with the olive oil, ¾ teaspoon salt, and a good grind of pepper. Spread out on the prepared baking sheets and bake for 25 minutes, flipping halfway through, until softened and lightly browned. Set aside to cool.

For the dal: Put the olive oil into a large saute pan on medium-high heat. Once hot, add the shallots and fry for 8 minutes, until golden. Add the ginger, half the chile, and half the curry leaves (if using) and cook for 2 minutes, then add all the spices, tomato paste, and lentils. Stir for 1 minute, then add the coconut milk, water, and salt. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to medium and let simmer for 20 minutes, stirring once in a while, until the lentils are soft and the sauce is thick. Pour into a 7-inch by 11-inch inch baking dish and set aside.

In a small bowl, toss together the paneer, lime zest, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, the mango pickle, cilantro and ⅛ teaspoon salt.

Place one spinach leaf on top of each slice of eggplant. Put a heaping 1 teaspoon of the paneer mixture in the middle, then roll up the eggplant, from the thinner end at the top down to the thicker bottom end, so the filling is encased. Put the eggplant roll seam-side down in the lentil sauce and repeat with the remaining eggplant slices, spinach, and paneer. You should end up with about eighteen rolls, all sitting snugly in the sauce. Press the rolls gently into the sauce, but not so far that they are submerged, and bake for 15–20 minutes, until the eggplant is golden brown on top and the sauce is bubbling. Remove from the oven and let rest for five minutes.

Heat the 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small pan on medium-high heat. Add the remaining chile and curry leaves and fry for 1 minute, until the curry leaves are crisp and fragrant. Spoon over the eggplant rolls, drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice, and serve with cilantro sprinkled on top.

This display of the season’s best can double up as a light dessert or as a brunch centerpiece. You can make your own labneh, but it requires draining the yogurt for a good 24 hours, or you can make everything easily on the day using store-bought labneh or some Greek-style yogurt mixed with a little heavy cream. The berries you use are totally up to you, depending on what’s good and not too expensive. You can use fewer types, or some frozen berries, if you like, especially for those that get blitzed in the recipe. You’ll make more oil than you need; store it in a glass jar to drizzle over salads or lightly cooked vegetables.

Berry Platter with Sheep Milk Labney and Orange Oil

Makes 6 servings

For labneh:

3 ⅔ cups sheep milk yogurt or cow milk yogurt

½ teaspoon table salt

7 tablespoons good-quality olive oil

⅓ ounces lemon thyme sprigs, plus a few whole thyme leaves

1 orange: finely shave the peel to get 6 strips

1 ⅓ cups blackberries

2 cups raspberries

3 cups strawberries, hulled and halved lengthwise (or quartered if they’re larger)

¼ cup superfine sugar

1 lime: finely zest to get 1 teaspoon, then juice to get 1 tablespoon

1¼ cups blueberries

⅔ cup cherries, pitted

For the labneh: Line a colander with a piece of muslin large enough to hang over the sides and place the colander over a bowl. Put the yogurt and salt into a medium bowl and mix well to combine. Transfer the yogurt to the muslin and fold over the sides to completely encase the yogurt. Place a heavy weight over the muslin (a few cans or jars will do) and transfer to the fridge to drain for at least 24 hours or up to 48 hours.

Meanwhile, put the olive oil into a small saucepan, for which you have a lid, on medium heat. Heat gently for about 7 minutes, or until tiny air bubbles form. Remove from the heat, add the lemon thyme sprigs and orange strips, and then cover and let infuse, ideally overnight, though 30 minutes will also do the job.

Put ⅓ cup of the blackberries, ¾ cup of the raspberries, and ⅓ cup of the strawberries into the bowl of a small food processor along with the sugar and lime juice and blitz until completely smooth. Put all the remaining berries and the cherries into a large bowl along with the blitzed fruit and gently combine. (You can serve straight away or leave in the fridge for a few hours, bringing back to room temperature before serving.)

Spread the labneh out on a large platter. Spoon in the berries, then sprinkle with the lime zest. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the infused oil, dot with a couple of the orange strips and whole thyme leaves, and serve at once.

Staff Writer Diane Peterson can be reached at 707-521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com. On Twitter @dianepete56