John Ash shares ideas for cooking with coffee
We usually think of coffee mostly as a beverage and maybe as a flavoring for ice cream or candy. Coffee, however, has a rich culinary history and has been used in a variety of ways, both sweet and savory.
Authorities seem to agree that coffee was first consumed in West Africa and the Middle East. There, it was first eaten whole, berry, bean and all, usually with some kind of fat or in combination with dried fruits and beans. The fermented pulp of the berry also was used to make a kind of wine.
The practice of roasting the beans to develop their aromatic flavors probably started in the 13th century. Alan Davidson, author of the encyclopedic “The Oxford Companion to Food” notes that in Yemen by the end of the 13th century, the beverage had acquired its familiar name, qahwah, which was a poetic name for wine. Coffee has many similarities to wine. The language to describe its flavors is similar and like wine, coffee varies tremendously in flavor and intensity depending on the place where it is grown.
No doubt the original appeal of coffee was the stimulating boost it offers from its caffeine content. At one time or another, it was called “the Devil’s brew” and condemned by clerics. Many decried coffee as a potent aphrodisiac.
The Vatican, among others, called coffee “Satan’s latest trap to catch Christian souls.” But Pope Clement VIII intervened and, according to legend, demanded to taste coffee and decide for himself. He liked it so much he decreed it was something Christianity should make its own. This probably is why, in Europe, coffee culture blossomed first in Italy (although some French dispute this).
Coffee has become such a fixture in American culture that it’s only natural we would begin to explore other uses for this deliciously complex product.
My first recollection of tasting coffee in a non-drink form was a recipe my grandmother used to make. Being of sturdy Scotch/Irish/German descent, she was genetically programmed to never waste anything. She used to take the coffee that had been on the heat too long (you know, that stuff that’s so strong the acids and bitterness could remove your teeth enamel) and turn it into a wonderful poaching liquid for fruits.
Poaching fruits in wine has been with us for a long time. Coffee has many of the same characteristics as wine, including rich flavor, good acidity and tannins, all nice foils for sweet fruits. I’ve included my grandmother’s recipe below, using pears. The poaching liquid is just as wonderful with other fruits, such as apples or bananas. You can use the liquid repeatedly. After awhile, it thickens to become the most delicious fruit-infused syrup that is tasty on pancakes, waffles and ice cream.
You can make this dish a day or two ahead, if you desire. I like it served warm or chilled.
Coffee-Poached Pears
Makes 8 servings
6 cups of strong coffee
2½ cups dark brown sugar
Zest and juice of 2 medium oranges
2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
1 3-inch cinnamon stick
8 medium firm-ripe pears, peeled and cored
¾ teaspoon cornstarch
¼ cup fresh orange juice
Fresh orange segments, mint sprigs and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream, if desired, for garnish
In a large, wide nonreactive saucepan, combine the coffee, brown sugar, zest and juice of the oranges, ginger and cinnamon stick and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Add the pears and return to a simmer. Gently simmer until the pears are cooked through and tender, testing the pears with a toothpick. The cooking time will vary greatly depending on the type and size of pear used. When they’re tender, remove from the heat. Strain 1 cup of the poaching liquid into a small saucepan. Leave the pears in their liquid while making the sauce.
Dissolve the cornstarch in the orange juice and add to the small saucepan containing the cup of poaching liquid. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes until lightly thickened. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
Serve the pears sliced and fanned out in shallow bowls or on plates. Spoon some of the sauce over and around the slices. Garnish with 2 or 3 orange segments, mint sprigs and the whipped or ice cream.
I know this sounds pretty “cheffy,” but it’s simpler than you’d think. You can make the rub 3 days ahead and store in cool place, tightly covered. The sauce can be made a couple hours ahead and kept warm. Quail are available online. A good local source is devilsgulchranch.com, in Marin County. If quail are outside your budget, you can substitute 6 good-size skin-on chicken thighs.
Quail Roasted with Coffee, Spices and a Vanilla Sauce
Makes 6 servings
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
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