Sonoma County vintner Mac McDonald’s wines have been served at the White House

Born the son of a Texas moonshiner, Mac McDonald tasted Burgundy at age 12 and was transfixed. The depth of flavors in the wine made him realize his calling was to be a winemaker.

Now 80, McDonald of Windsor’s Vision Cellars is just one of a handful of Black vintners in Sonoma County. There are fewer than 60 wineries in the U.S. operated by African Americans. according to Statista, an online platform specializing in market data.

Producing a brand that turns heads is the winemaker’s modus operandi for championing diversity in the wine industry.

“Make a top-quality wine,” McDonald said. “That’s how you fight for it. Hopefully, people will forget what color you are when you make a good product.”

The vintner accomplished his goal by cofounding Vision Cellars in 1995 with his wife, Lil, and making pinot noir that drew praise from both critics and dignitaries.

With Vision Cellar’s flagship pinot noir, the brand’s highest rating was in 2009. It snagged 93 points from Wine Spectator for its Vision Cellars, 2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Coster Vineyard. The brand also was served at the White House on a handful of occasions. One of its most high-profile pourings was as at a dinner in June 2005 to celebrate Black Music Month, when the Vision Cellars, 2003 Rosella’s Pinot Noir was paired with Angus steak.

“I take pride as a winemaker in creating something that someone else can enjoy,” he said.

Mac the mentor

In 2002, McDonald cofounded the Association of African American Vintners, in part to champion diversity in the industry and highlight Black winemakers.

Black vintner Phil Long of Livermore’s Longevity Wines said McDonald has been a willing mentor in the industry with his vast knowledge.

“When you’re a winemaker/owner, winemaking goes way beyond your knowledge of how to handle grapes,” said Long, now president of the association. “Mac understands the industry and how it works. You have to have this quality to survive in this industry, let alone thrive. And he’s willing to share all his knowledge and experience with anyone interested.”

With more than 200 members, the association’s current project is to raise $25,000 to support Black-owned wine businesses with grants. To date, the organization has raised almost $9,000 (givebutter.com/aaavgrant).

In 2019, the association decided wineries don’t need to be owned by people of color to become members, as long as they support diversity and inclusion.

“Mac’s dedication to the association and to the industry kept him engaged to move the association forward,” Long said. “His commitment to ‘we do, too’ continues to shine a light on African Americans in the industry.”

Mac the mentee

McDonald grew up 89 miles south of Dallas, Texas, in the town of Butler (formerly Oakwood). When his high school basketball coach heard he wanted to a winemaker, he encouraged McDonald to move to California.

After graduating from high school, McDonald made his way to the Golden State in 1962. He attended Merritt Jr. College in Oakland and later took biology classes at UC Berkeley.

McDonald worked various jobs in restaurants and worked on a farm in Union City before landing a job at Pacific Gas and Electric Co. But he never wavered from his goal of becoming a winemaker. He spent a lot of time in Napa Valley, asking questions of those working in the vineyards.

His lucky break came in the late ’70s, when he crossed paths with vintner Charlie Wagner of Rutherford’s Caymus Vineyards.

“He (Charlie) was working out in the vineyard, pruning,” McDonald said. “I thought he was a hired hand. He talked to me all the time. It was nine months before I found out who he was. Then I found out he owned the winery.”

After mentoring McDonald for many years, the Wagner family suggested he get into the wine business. When he said he didn’t have the kind of money necessary to make wine, they helped back him financially.

“We crafted wine in 1996, but we didn’t release it because it didn’t meet our standards,” McDonald said of his own label.

When he and Lil bought their land in Sonoma County, they planted a variety of pinot noir clones in their vineyard.

“My vision of becoming a winemaker was a reality,” McDonald said. “Our first bottling was 1997 pinot noir, and Vision Cellars was born. … Every year, I learn something different. It’s an exciting adventure I look forward to.”

After more than four decades, McDonald’s ties to the Wagner family remain strong.

“My parents taught me if you want to be successful, you have to be persistent and learn as much as you can,” he said.

McDonald also talked about his favorite wine book, diversity in the wine industry and what he takes most pride in as a winemaker.

Question: What’s your favorite wine book?

Answer: “Love by the Glass,” by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher. They write about the romance of wine, and it’s very interesting.

Q: Will the wine industry ever be truly diverse and, if so, when?

A: It’s probably 10 years out. People really need to understand all aspects of the wine industry, like the three-tiered distribution system (producers, distributors and retailers). I don’t want to put a damper on things, but it takes a lot of money to be in the wine business, and you have to be up-to-date with your knowledge.

Q: What do you take the most pride in as a winemaker?

A: I wanted to be a winemaker and I wanted to be recognized. I had the idea of being rated in the Wine Spectator, and I accomplished that nine or 10 times. I had the goal of having my wine poured in the White House, and I accomplished that four or five times.

You can reach Wine Writer Peg Melnik at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.