Wine of the week: Duckhorn, 2022 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc

Being a good winemaker is a delicate balance of knowing when to leave things alone and knowing when to intervene.

That’s how Renée Ary sees it.

The winemaker and vice president of Napa Valley’s Duckhorn Vineyards crafted our wine of the week winner – the Duckhorn, 2022 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc, 14.1%, $32, 4.5 stars.

It is a complex sauvignon blanc where tropical meets citrus. With its notes of guava, pineapple and lime, it has supple texture, crisp acidity and over-delivers for the price.

“In California, more and more winemakers are exploring a lusher and texturally driven expression of sauvignon blanc, which some people refer to as “Super Sauvignon,” Ary said. “It’s great to see wine enthusiasts embracing a style we’ve been dedicated to for years.”

The winning wine, Ary explained, showcases a silky texture and added depth and complexity from the addition of 9.5% sémillon to the blend.

“I taste constantly with an eye on quality and continuous improvement,” the winemaker said. “There is no forgiveness in white winemaking. You can’t hide flaws. My team and I are constantly evaluating our sauvignon blanc at every stage to make sure we get everything right.”

Sourcing fruit from both Sonoma County and Napa Valley, Ary said, gives the wine an edge.

“In broad strokes, the Sonoma grapes provide brightness, acidity and more delicate cool climate aromas and flavors, while Napa Valley gives us more depth and tropical notes,” she said.

Ary, 48, began her winemaker odyssey when she was working in the lab at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1999. She took classes at Napa Valley College and UC Davis while working at the winery.

“I fell in love with winemaking and the notion that my love of art and science could be in harmony while creating something special to share with family and friends,” Ary explained.

Joining Duckhorn Vineyards in 2003, Ary worked her way up the ladder from lab manager to head winemaker.

Duckhorn Vineyards was co-founded by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn in 1976, the very first to pioneer luxury merlot as a stand-alone varietal, Ary said.

Building on the Bordeaux varietals, the vintners added sauvignon blanc in 1982 because they were passionate about making an elegant white wine.

“The difference between a good and a great wine is in the details and I pay attention to every little detail,” Ary said. “I also know when to let your senses and intuition guide you versus relying solely on numbers.”

You can reach Wine Writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com. On X (Twitter) @pegmelnik.