Profiles in wine: Vintner Carlos Chavez came from war-torn El Salvador

El Salvador was in the midst of a civil war in 1984, with gunfire raging and deaths mounting, mainly at the hands of government security forces. Elsa Chavez knew her son Carlos would have to enlist in El Salvador’s military if he stayed in the war-torn country. Elsa, living in Los Angeles at the time, arranged for her sister Gloria to bring Carlos to America.

That must seem like another lifetime to Carlos, who, with his wife, Linda Chavez, is the vintner of Healdsburg’s Chavez Family Cellars. Over the years, he has snagged many accolades in various wine competitions for his wines.

“We are a Latino winery with five gold medals for our cabernet,” Carlos said. “It’s not easy to get gold around here where wineries have so many resources. But we’re the little engine that does not give up.”

What makes his winery a standout is its philosophy of giving back to the community they live in, Carlos said.

“We have a motto of helping others, as others helped us in the past,” Carlos said. “You can find our wine brand being poured at different nonprofit events in Sonoma County and also in the North Bay. We champion a few causes: healthcare, education, equity, among others.”

Carlos found his way to boutique winemaking after working as a health and safety specialist in the agricultural industry in the early 1990s. He and Linda, who married in 1998, started their wine odyssey making wine in their garage in 2000. They began their commercial venture in 2006.

Linda said when Carlos’ mother died in 1998, it made them realize life is short. It spurred them to go after their dream of becoming vintners.

Both had secure jobs at the time. Linda was the human resources director for the Ventura County Housing Authority and Carlos was director of risk management for Ventura County Agricultural Association.

“If we were going to take a risk, we decided this would be the time because we didn’t have any children,” Linda said. “And if we were going to bet on anyone, it would be each other.”

The winery’s first vintage, of cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc, was released in 2008, with rosé and a late-harvest muscat now in the lineup. Today the vintners produce roughly 750 cases yearly, making their wine out of Healdsburg’s Selby Winery.

“As a Latino from El Salvador,” Carlos said, “you would not think that becoming a winemaker could be done. But I’ve done it. I’ve crafted some great wines here in Sonoma County. Having access to great grapes, great barrels and a facility to craft this wine has helped make me a good winemaker.”

Carlos also talked about his favorite wine book and why he feels Sonoma County is the best place to grow grapes.

Question: What’s your favorite wine book and why?

Answer: “Judgment of Paris” by George M. Taber because it impacted my winemaking practices in a positive way.

Q: What’s your favorite wine-growing region in California and why?

A: I have to say Sonoma County. We have the microclimates to make many varietals the best because of our land. From cabernet in Alexander Valley to pinot noir and sauvignon blanc in the Russian River Valley, zinfandels in Dry Creek Valley to chardonnay in the Carneros area, Sonoma County has it all.

Q: What makes you a great fit to be a winemaker?

A: In 2005, I took a set of classes at the UC Davis Extension (continuing and professional education program) and learned the analytical aspect of making wine. But for many years, working in different wineries (managing) the health and safety for the workers making the wine brought me closer to seeing the different processes of winemaking.

I can say I’ve learned by working alongside the Latino cellar masters and workers while being their health and safety instructor. A lot of my training has come from conversing with those workers ... and sometimes getting their opinions about my winemaking practices.

You can reach Wine Writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com. On Twitter @pegmelnik.