Sparkler of week: Iron Horse, 2017 Green Valley, Russian River Valley Winter’s Cuvée
“Sparkling wine is a labor of love,” said Sofian Himeur, winemaker of Sebastopol’s Iron Horse Vineyards. Referring to sparklers made in the traditional French method (méthode Champenoise), he said, “it takes great patience. From grape to finished product, it averages four years.”
Himeur, along with a team at the winery, are behind our sparkler of the week — the Iron Horse, 2017 Green Valley, Russian River Valley Winter’s Cuvée, 13.5%, $70. It’s a gorgeous sparkler with a melding of flavors — green apple, brioche, peach and a hint of almond. The Iron Horse has complexity, an intriguing intensity, balance and a nice mousse. It snagged the top spot in our list of sparkling wines $29 and up because of its caliber at this price point.
Other outstanding sparklers, at a range of prices, include: Domaine Carneros, 2014 Le Reve Blanc de Blancs Carneros Sparkling Wine, 12%, $120; Flaunt, 2017 Russian River Valley Brut Sparkling Wine, 12.8%, $48; Flying by the Seat of Our Pants, NV Bricoleur Vineyard Brut Sparkling Wine, 12.4%, $45; Frank Family Vineyards, 2015 Napa Valley Carneros Blanc de Blancs, 12%, $55; Gloria Ferrer, 2014 Royal Cuvée, 12.5%, $58; Inman, 2018 Russian River Valley Blanc de Blancs, 12%, $78; J Vineyard, 2014 Russian River Valley Brut Sparkling Wine, 12.5%, $60; Marimar Estate, 2019 Dona Margarita Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, Blanc de Noirs. 12.5%, $48; Paul Mathew, 2017 Russian River Valley Blanc de Noir Sparkling Wine, 13.5%, $56; Ram’s Gate, 2015 Carneros Blanc de Noirs, 12.5%, $68; and Roederer Estate, NV Anderson Valley Brut Sparkling Wine, 12.5%, $30.
As for the Iron Horse Winter’s Cuvée, Himeur said it was crafted to enjoy on a cozy winter night.
“It has a bit more richness,” he said. “I think all sparkling wines have a romance to them. This cuvée is especially heartwarming. I think it gives us a feeling of comfort and cheer.”
Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.
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