Serve this rosé with seafood and spring vegetables

Our Wine of the Week, Bedrock Wine Co., 2020 Ode to Lulu, Old Vine Rosé ($24), is both edgy and elegant, a feisty quaffer you can take anywhere. It’s full of personality, but it doesn’t push the boundaries of what we expect from a rosé. It is lean, bright and crisp, with pretty suggestions of red raspberries and wild strawberries. There is a hint of spice, too, suggestive of white pepper and, perhaps, cardamom.

Given its vintage, it’s quite remarkable the wine is so delicious. The fruit of one of the vineyards that typically goes into this wine was lost to summer wildfires. Yet it came through a year more challenging than most with finesse and ethereal delicacy. As the weather grows warmer, keep this wine in mind, as it is infinitely refreshing.

At the table, you’ll enjoy the wine with seafood, spring vegetables and, when watermelon comes into season, salads such as watermelon with sautéed halloumi and fresh spearmint. It is excellent with almost any type of ceviche and goes beautifully with oysters on the half shell as well as with charcuterie, salumi, green olives and salty cheeses such as feta. It is excellent with radish and crème fraîche sandwiches, prosciutto and goat cheese sandwiches and salade Niçoise.

For today’s recipe, I’ve chosen as easy a dish as you’ll find, a simple Hawaiian poke (pronounced poe’-kay) served with radishes and avocado alongside. It’s a cool and refreshing dish, just like the wine.

Ahi Poke with Avocado and Radishes

Serves 2 to 4

1 pound sashimi-grade ahi tuna, trimmed of dark flesh and cut into 1-inch cubes

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 green onions, white and green parts, cut into very thin rounds

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1 firm-ripe avocado, halved, pitted and cut into thin lengthwise slices

Hawaiian alaea salt, lightly crushed, or kosher salt

6 to 8 radishes, trimmed and cut into small wedges

2 teaspoon inamona (ground kukui nut, also known as candlenut) or crushed macadamia nuts

Put the tuna in a medium bowl, add the red pepper flakes and soy sauce, toss gently and chill, covered, for at least one hour.

Chill a serving plate.

To finish, remove from the refrigerator, add the green onion and cilantro and toss gently and set aside briefly.

Fan the avocado slices out onto the serving platter, placing them off center, and mound the poke alongside, near the center of the plate. Scatter the radishes around the poke.

Sprinkle everything with salt, scatter the inamona or nuts on top of the poke and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “San Francisco Seafood.” Email her at michele@micheleannjordan.com